How to Make Green Tea Frozen Custard
The second in a series on ice creams, custards and sorbets
Jim Berman CCI
Frozen custard is not ice cream. While the terms are often used interchangeably, they are not the same dish. Custard has to have eggs by definition and I am not the one writing the book. The book also says that ice cream, however, is egg-less. The end result is that custard produces a different mouth feel and a richer dessert. There is a bit more time invested in custard, but is well worth the extra umph. Also, custard works well to transport some flavors more energetically than its eggless cousin, ice cream.
So, when presented with an upcoming event that features foods highlighting color-inspired dishes, among other offerings, we opted to bring ‘Black and Blue Tuna Tataki’, Red Chili Chicken Pot Stickers and Green Tea Custard. So we get to put the new Lello Frozen Dessert Maker to task and flex our frozen custard muscle.
The custard really does require a frozen dessert maker/machine. As mentioned in the first installment in this series, a machine makes life in the dessert-making arena a lot more hassle-free. And, the end product is made measurably better. The machine’s mechanization can be almost(!) duplicated by trying to stir-freeze-stir-freeze for a few hours of laborious tedium, but the aeration by the continuous churning simply can’t be replicated in absence of the mechanical version.
Green Tea Custard
1 ½ cups, Whole milk
2 ½ cups, Heavy cream
8 egg yolks
1 cup, granulated sugar
½ teaspoon, fine salt
¼ cup, matcha green tea powder *
Heat the milk and cream to a simmer in a two-quart sauce pan.
While the milk mixture heats, mix the yolks and sugar until yellow and ‘gummy’.
Temper the egg mixture with the warmed milk/cream, one ladle at a time.
Return the mixture to the sauce and stir in the salt and matcha over medium heat until the custard thickens, approximately eight minutes.
Remove and set in an ice bath until well chilled. Set the mixture in the machine of your choosing. The Lello two-quart dessert maker takes about 20 minutes to convert the custard from green goo to frozen amazingness. Remove the soft-frozen mixture and freeze several hours in an airtight container. The resting time is really quite necessary to allow the flavors to develop.
The savory draw of the tea works extremely well in a frozen form. The sweetness makes green tea come to life as a dessert. Try little tempura-bananas or raspberry coulis as garnish. Or just pack the custard in a metal-handled white cardboard container and eat it after the Duck Noodle Soup from the corner take-out shop.
* - Matcha is a fine green tea powder. It is readily available in Asian markets, the fancy tea place at the mall and Amazon. It is not cheap, but it goes a long way.