All About Ices, Jellies and Creams
By: Cindy Renfrow
In their book, "All About Ices, Jellies, and Creams", authors Henry Harris and S. P. Borella trumpeted a wakeup call to their fellow confectioners to turn away from the Evils of Artificial Ingredients and shoddy workmanship. They wrote:
"Our desire is to be helpful - not only to individuals, but to our trade as a whole. It is, however, to the younger members that we hope chiefly to appeal, for with them lies the trade's future. Those older ones, deeply set in their wicked ways, are largely past praying for."
"All About Ices, Jellies, and Creams" was first published in London by Maclaren & Sons, Ltd., in the early 1900s as part of the All About Confectionery Series. "All About Ices, Jellies, and Creams" reflected the authors' concern that only pure and proper ingredients be used in the manufacture of ice creams, jellies and gelatin desserts. Fresh fruits and juices, carefully prepared syrups, and the finest liqueurs and creams are called for to produce a delicious variety of iced treats with such exotic names as "Orgeat Water Ice", "Panachee Jelly", and Tangerine Orange Charlotte". The book contains over 500 enticing recipes for "water ices" (sorbets), granitas, cream ices (cream and custard based), iced souffles, bombes, jellies, jellied creams, liqueur creams, jams, preserves and compotes, wine cups and fruit beverages.
These, and hundreds more, were once widely available and now, thanks to a new digital facsimile printing of this classic work by Kegan Paul Press, these sweet treats can be enjoyed by a new audience. Full directions are given for all recipes, and there is a detailed index. However, the publisher has failed to insert a glossary to assist the modern reader in deciphering some of the less well-known ingredients. For example, what American pantry is stocked with Attar of Roses, Cedrati Water, or carmine?
By pricing this facsimile reprint at $110.00 US, the publisher is clearly targeting the culinary professional. Confectioners and chefs seeking ideas and recipes for fabulous desserts made from the purest natural ingredients will wish to add "All About Ices, Jellies, and Creams" to their bookshelves. Just be advised that the original is available from antiquarian booksellers for only $5.00 more than this facsimile reprint.



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