The Armchair James Beard

As this century comes to a close and we look back at the people who have shaped the cooking in America, James Beard, the "Dean of American Cooking," is certainly part of the group of most prominent figures in American cuisine. Through his extensive writing, James Beard influenced the way we thought about food. And when it came to food, no subject, either ornate or rustic, was beyond the grasp of the master's pen. He wrote with whit and a Proust-like personal reminiscence of the culinary past. James Beard never pretended to write objectively but rather peppered his work with his authoritative and passionate opinion. I vividly remember reading Beard on Bread while in my early teens and just beginning my journey in the culinary profession. This book shaped my earliest thoughts about bread. I adopted James Beard's criteria for perfect toast--lots of butter put on only at the last second-- and insisted that my family eat their toast the same and only way.

John Ferrone, who worked with the late James Beard on 5 of his cookbooks, has compiled a smattering of 65 of James Beard's writings in The Armchair James Beard. (Three of the articles are published for the first time in this new book.) John Ferrone has carefully chosen topics from which the reader can learn about the historical James Beard and feel his passion for fine food, especially American fine food. These writings also remind us of America's culinary journey over the last 5 decades. This book is exactly what the title implies--perfect to sit down with a good cup of coffee and learn from one of the masters. His writings on breakfast are ripe with the nostalgia of his youth and the era of the large breakfast, which seems so compelling to those of us trapped in today's hurried lifestyle. In another article, we see his dedication to food as we accompany him to a tasting that only dedicated gourmets would attempt -- a cassoulet tasting. Other fascinating articles include Dishes to Fight Over (chowder, potato salad, and fried chicken), Watercress: More Than a Garnish, Who Invented the Hamburger, and Even Vinegar Has a Mother. This collection is a perfect choice both for those of us already familiar with James Beard, as well as for those of us yet to experience his writing. It is a joy to come across a book with so much good, solid culinary reading. It is highly recommended.

 

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