Oysters : A Culinary Celebration
By: Frank Chlumsky
Gastronomically speaking, oysters are my lifelong passion. My dad taught me the "trick" to eating them "raw on the half-shell" (chew them!) when I was a mere eight years old. Over the years we have taken immense pleasure in successfully introducing this illustrious bivalve to literally hundreds of people. Happily, we now have Joan Reardon to help us. Oysters: A Culinary Celebration, is undoubtedly the most enjoyable book about oysters that I have ever read.
But there's a lot more to oysters than eating them raw, and Ms. Reardon serves up 185 classic and innovative recipes, from traditional American regional cuisine to some very creative preparations from the kitchens of Europe, Asia, and the Caribbean as well. Particularly enjoyable are the supplementary hints and comments that precede almost every recipe. And cheftalk's own chef, Christopher Koetke furnishes the always-helpful wine and beverage suggestions.
As Joan Reardon illustrates, there are many ways to enjoy oysters. But for me, apart from a quick and simple oyster stew on a cold winter night, my absolute favorite way to enjoy cooked oysters is in an oyster loaf (p.127). The legendary "La Mediatrice," otherwise known as the "Peace-maker," from New Orleans is undoubtedly one of the most delectable sandwiches on the planet. The combination of lightly fried oysters on toasted and buttered French bread is satisfying beyond description. (Try it first without the optional sauce). Incidentally, my own variation on this recipe is to sauté the oysters rather than deep frying them. And if you dust the oysters in corn flour, you can dispense with the egg and breadcrumbs, which will allow for the delicate, distinctive oyster flavor to be more pronounced.
Still, Oysters is much more than a cookbook. Abundant facts and numerous quotations from oyster lovers throughout history appear throughout its pages. In addition to the six sections, titled "Appetizers," "Soups," "Salads & Vegetables," "Breads & Pastries," and "Oyster Entrees," a welcome and enlightening list of general suggestions precedes each segment. Almost any question that might arise when trying the recipes is answered. After reading some of these hints, you'll be so well informed that you may wish to depart from the given recipes and begin to create some of your own.
Many readers will surely welcome the "Color Identification Section" that is located midway through the book. Here, 16 color photographs of some of North America's most distinctive oysters will benefit anyone who has been confronted with the large, often daunting, selection that is now commonly offered at some raw bars. Add to this the informative "oyster glossary," at the back of the book, and you'll soon be an expert.
Joan Reardon has done a splendid job in presenting this legendary shellfish to the world. If you're a longtime lover of oysters you will certainly want to own Oysters, A Culinary Celebration. If you're one of the uninitiated, get this book and you'll soon be a member of the club.



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