Mediterranean Herb Cook Book

It is most unfortunate that, in general, we rely on herbs and spices from the jar. We use dry basil in our spaghetti sauce. We sprinkle dry oregano across our pizza. Roasted potatoes are tossed with pine needles&. errr, um&. dry rosemary. There is an entire garden full of great taste that has nothing to do with dried, jarred or otherwise processed, handled, altered or otherwise abused herbs. These verdant adornments are readily available in every grocery store. An array of tidy packages of just-sniped herbs to embellish the most mundane of dishes, oft line the produce racks, nestled neatly between the lettuce and carrots. A shame, really so available but overlooked. These elements are prerequisite to vibrant, summer cooking. They play on the special, olfactory sense that is reserved for that time of year that relishes icy lemonade, mouth-flooding watermelon and crisp corn. So, the question remains, why do we subject otherwise adequate, satisfactory or even wonderful fare to the devastation of dried out, dusty herbs?

Georgeanne Brennan must have pondered the very same quandary. This James Beard Award-winner captures "vivid, earthy flavors of herbs" in Mediterranean Herb Cook Book. A brief introduction to the Mediterranean kitchen and the incorporation of fresh herbs also details a quick blurb on getting the herbs into your kitchen. A lexicon on some of the common species as well as some of the lesser-known characters is succinct and informative she dots the section with bits of history, classical applications and some storage tips. There is arugula, basil and cilantro. But, there is also borage, verbena and lovage. She wittingly includes a separate section on the perennials, to enforce the notion that herbs belong in the winter garden, as well. A relief to know that everything you cook this winter does not necessarily have to come from a jar or can. After the schooling on herbs she whisks us off to her kitchen.

Mediterranean Herb Cook Book does not fall short in substance. Brennan presents over 100 recipes, ranging from "small dishes, salads and soups" to main courses, breads and sweets. It is refreshing to find "small dishes". Not "lite" or cutesy nouvelle muck, but something you could serve to guests before a night out. Or to the bridge club. Minted Lamb Meatballs with fresh green herbs and yogurt is a dish that smacks of the Mediterranean and awakens the savory taste buds that enjoy mint other than as an overused garnish to your dessert or in iced tea. Brennan's Tabbouleh is a classic preparation that is classically good. It is a dish rich in history and vibrant in flavor combinations. She runs through Gazpacho, Chilled melon with Cilantro and Cucumber soup with dill and chives, as well as some other herbaceous soups. There are straightforward recipes for monkfish, sea bass and halibut that excel at showing off the main ingredients rather than the creativity of the cook. The Lamb Shanks with Dried Fruit Braise is a dish that is most worthy of your consideration. The Classic Paella recipe is just that. Fear not pasta-philes, there are pastas aplenty. There is fettucine and papperdelle dressed for dinner like you have not ever seen these guys. The bread section explodes with Foccacia with Basil and Dried Tomatoes, among others. There is a gem in Chervil Biscuits, as well as Sage and Sausage scones. Yum. I'll close my rave of Mediterranean Herb Cook Book with Brown Sugar Pears baked with Lavender. As should you.

 

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