Over the weekend we read the disturbing news of another foodborne illness outbreak. Once again it is e-coli 0157(h)7, a particularly nasty strain, that has sickened at least 120 and killed at least one person. There may be many more.
The cause, originally thought to be in organic spinach but Monday revealed to be found in conventional, industrially produced spinach instead, is thought to be contamination either from fertilizer, the soil, or the in-field processing system. Detailed descriptions of how this system works are available in Michael Pollan's recent book, The Omnivore's Dilemma. The point is not that the spinach was organic or conventional, but rather the industrialized methods used on these massive California farms and elsewhere. Contamination in one of these places can sicken hundreds, even thousands of people.
Any system of distribution that has only a few central points is more economical in the short term, but is simply not sustainable in the long view. Consider for a moment why the Defense Department built Arpanet with the model it did. The goal was to create a system of communication whereby if one junction were attacked, the system could simply work around it, unlike conventional phone and telegraph lines that could be easily cut and disabled. This network eventually became the internet we know today.
A similar system could be used for food distribution. Imagine if more of the produce you buy could come from closer to home, from several small farms instead of one big one. While it is true that no system is totally invulnerable and a foodborne illness outbreak could occur on a small local farm, if it did the illnesses would be far fewer, far more contained, and far less damaging to the economy. This recent outbreak of e-coli has resulted in the recall of all spinach nationwide, a move which will doubtlessly harm many innocent growers and processors for the mistakes of just one or a few.
Many people will argue that such a localized system will result in higher prices. To them I suggest that they consider cost rather than price. Consider the cost of so much packaging to the environment. Consider the cost of so much fuel for growing and shipping upon international relations and global climate. Consider the cost of processed foods to our healthcare system. Consider the cost of massive foodborne illness outbreaks on the innocent farmers and family whose loved ones are sickened or killed. These hidden costs are too much for us to sustain for long.
Now consider the advantages of buying locally. Not only is the food fresher, better tasting and better for you; not only do you have the advantage of traceability, knowing exactly where you food came from and who grew it; but consider this great opportunity as well – if every household in Johnson County, IA (there are about 45,000) were to divert just $10 of their existing weekly food budget to buying something produced locally, it would keep over $23 million in the Johnson County economy every year. Now imagine if everyone diverted $20, or $40, or $80.
I'm not suggesting that everything we eat has to come from right here. We needn't be looking for Iowa grown olives or oranges. But we could be growing a lot more of our own food here, as could everyone else around the country in their home regions. We'd improve nutrition, the environment, the health care system, and our evening meal. Even national security would be enhanced the way Arpanet improved defense communications – a problem with poisoned food one place should not mean the collapse of our whole food system. Don't think for a moment that the terrorists haven't consider an attack on our food system. It's at least as vulnerable a point as our ports or our southern border.
So to enjoy some perfectly safe, delicious spinach this weekend, stop by the local farmers market and pick some up. Find the sense of security that comes from shaking the hand that raised the food – food with a farmer's face.
