Kuan, I know how you feel. It's a bit daunting, and frankly, few can really pull it off. I think it's easy for a chef to lose control of quality when there are so many items.
In my city, we too are seeing this trend. But of the top ten restaurants, only one or two chefs are really doing it. Ultimately its about giving customers what they want. And "fine dining" should do more than peak your curiosity; it should stick to your ribs.
From an economic perspective, its not a very accessible trend. This too will pass I'm sure. I think we'll look back on this as having been a period of fruitful experimentation, and the industry will have no doubt been propelled forward by it.
I love veal cheeks. But I'd rather have a full plate of it, minus the wafer.
