Now this gets kind of interesting. My pet theory on Espagnole is that it is more time consuming and has more ingredients that a straight reduction.
Supposing......
Supposing I had a batch of veal stock, moistened from a remy of a previous stock. Lets say it was the consitancy of a good espresso--not enough to coat a spoon, and I could even see through it I put it in a glass and held it to the light, but suppose it had a decent enough flavour and enough body to it. In other words, a basic set of Lego blocks. I was taught to make an Espagnole by sweating a new mirepoix in bacon/bacon fat, then sweating tomato paste with it, dusting it with flour, then adding the veal stock, and reducing. Granted, every kitchen would do this differently. But does this method sound like something you would call an Espagnole?
On the other hand If I had the 80 qt stock pot with filled with veal stock, I would drain it into a smaller pot, set it on the stove and walk away--theoritically. No chopping of mirepoix, no sweating, no dusting or the like, and in the morning I would strain it into icecream buckets and stash it away.
Now my question to everyone else is, after you strained the pot from the veal stock, what do you do with the bones? If you make a remy, what do you do with the remouillage afterwards?
Allemende? Is that the one with egg yolks and cream? I'd be scared ****less to keep that one in the steam table.....  |