[The BoardSMITH]

Originally Posted by KYHeirloomer

>The best boards are made so the endgrain is oriented up, towards the knife -- rather than the "side grain" or "long grain.

While you certainly can use an end-grain board as a cutting board, it's a very expensive way to go, with no real benefit.

Respectfully, I will have to disagree. The only reason to buy a edge or long grain board is for price and disposability. End grain is far more durable, easier on the edges and is much less prone to splinter when the edges contact the cutting surface which are the main benefits of investing in one. Of the 500+ boards I make a year and sell, only 10 or less are long grain boards.

While all boards will warp or split, end grain boards are much less likely to do so. At least the better made ones.

[MikeLM]

The cutting board question always elicits this sort of discussion...

When my son started his cabinet shop, he bought for a song a semi-trailer load of hard-rock maple cutoffs from an installer of bowling alleys. He made a lot of cutting boards - as well as some nice furniture from the longer pieces - and researched the board material for suitability.

The University of Wisconsin has been especially active in the cutting-board sanitation question, and they came down very favorably of the side of wooden boards...

University of Wisconsin cutting board papers - Google Search

To make your own boards, you need some significant equipment - tablesaw, thickness planer, belt or drum sander, and LOTS & LOTS of clamps - and you can use Titebond III glue - available at any hardware/home improvement store - which is FDA-approved for foodservice use.

I like to set mine (footless) on a piece of a non-skid shelf liner like "Life-Liner" brand to keep them from moving around.

Like I said above, you don't put them in the dishwasher. Like BDL said, rinse, wipe, dry, and set on edge to finish drying.

Mike