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Old 07-26-2004, 01:37 PM
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Default Need ideas for Foie Gras burgers

I've heard about burgers with foie gras (wasn't Daniel Baloud the first one to put such a burger on his menu--or was kobe beef?) and seen one or two on menus but have never eaten one. I'm thinking of doing these to dress up a casual backyard burgerfest, so....

Working on the presumption that I'm going to add seared foie gras to a beef patty, how much foie gras should I use? This is important because it will determine whether I buy one liver or two--they come in about 1.5 lb lobes, and I will be serving 16-18 people.

Also, is there such a thing as classic additions to this kind of burger? I am thinking arugula instead of lettuce, and maybe Walla Walla sweet onions, but that's about it--don't want to junk it up with too many distracting flavors. I'm presuming the onion wouldn't be too much.

And what about condiments?
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Old 07-26-2004, 04:54 PM
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Here's how Mr. Boulud does it:

Quote:
You can see it on the faces of the diners at Boulud's latest venture, DB Bistro Moderne, as the stately "DB Burger" goes floating by. The dish is served in two fragile halves with a silver cup of pommes soufflés by its side. The meat is ground prime rib, leavened with braised short ribs, truffles, foie gras, and a hint of vegetable root. The bun is freshly baked and flecked with bits of Parmesan. Instead of ketchup, there's tomato compote on top, along with frisée and a smear of fresh mayonnaise. Take a bite, and these elements dissolve together in rich, almost confectionary layers; the taste is like no hamburger you've ever had.
Last year, about this time, the DB Burger was accounting for up to 40% of their business.

And here is a discussion on the DB Burger. Make sure you read the Today Show Boulud interview towards the middle where he talks about the ingredients/process. Fascinating!

And as far as condiments are concerned, how about:

Melted brie
Caramelized onions
Something apple (Apple Chutney?)
Duxelle

This chef makes his own cepe ketchup. From the NY Times (registration required)

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One specialty of Les Loges is a foie gras hamburger with a cèpe mushroom-based catsup called "Ketcèpes," a name Michel Trama, its chef, has trademarked.
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Old 07-26-2004, 06:57 PM
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Scott,

Thanks, I knew of Boulud's recipe contents-wise but didn't know how it all came together--I presumed these burgers were a clever way to dispense of foie gras trim scraps at this or his other restaurants. The inclusion of already cooked short ribs is rather new to me--how interesting.

And I didn't know about his ketchup. I was thinking about making a green tomato and sweet onion ketchup since it would have a sweetness to it (like your caramelized onion recipe) and put a tomato element, so traditional to American hamburgers, in the equation. Oh--and besides, my tomatoes aren't ripe yet so green's all I have!!
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Old 07-26-2004, 11:57 PM
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The scrap foie gras theory sounds like its on the money.

Are you married to the seared foie gras idea? Texturally, I'm having trouble picturing the hamburger with pieces of foie gras through it.

I couldn't help notice that DB grinds together the braised short ribs, foie gras, root vegetable, truffles and then stuffs his hamburger with that.

I've encountered chefs that stuff hamburger with a foie gras pate. That might be nice.

I'm also surprised that with something as decadent as a foie gras hamburger I have yet to come across anyone who serves them on an equally decadent 'bun' - a croissant.

And as far as the green tomatoes are concerned, you're on your own with that - never eaten one nor cooked one. I do, though, applaud your adaptability with what mother nature's providing you.
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Old 07-27-2004, 07:40 AM
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You cannot grind foie gras. It comes out a curdled mess. He probably dices it finely with a real sharp knife.

I was reading some of the discussion on egullet from the link posted up there. Part of the $27 is the pommes souffle. What some people don't realize is that pommes souffle is very, VERY difficult to execute properly. It takes time and some amazing feel to do it without wasting a bunch of potatoes, and consequently, more time. It's not something you can just throw in the fryer and step away from. You have to have two pots of oil on the fire at the same time and you have to agitate the oil just the right way for it to turn out right.

Kuan
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Old 07-27-2004, 09:42 AM
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Default Interesting

Get 2 and if you have leftover foie gras, you can make dessert with it too.

Poached pear halves in red wine stuffed with seared, diced foie gras. Port reduction for sauce, etc. Yummy!
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Old 07-27-2004, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott123
The scrap foie gras theory sounds like its on the money.

Are you married to the seared foie gras idea? Texturally, I'm having trouble picturing the hamburger with pieces of foie gras through it.

I couldn't help notice that DB grinds together the braised short ribs, foie gras, root vegetable, truffles and then stuffs his hamburger with that.

I've encountered chefs that stuff hamburger with a foie gras pate. That might be nice.

I'm also surprised that with something as decadent as a foie gras hamburger I have yet to come across anyone who serves them on an equally decadent 'bun' - a croissant.

And as far as the green tomatoes are concerned, you're on your own with that - never eaten one nor cooked one. I do, though, applaud your adaptability with what mother nature's providing you.
Scott, I'm picturing the seared foie gras as being instead of cheese. And, I've had a small tournedo served with a seared slice of foie gras on it, and the combination of beef and foie was terrific. Putting that combination in a bun doesn't sound like a stretch to me--I found many examples of same being drooled over by restaurant reviewers when I googled it. It's been done with great success. I'm actually very tempted to try to copy the DB right down to the short ribs, but that will have to wait for another time--this is for a group of 16, and we're going on a champagne cruise in the morning. I won't have time to 'fuss' much.

The green tomato ketchup is a Quebecoise recipe (from "A Taste of Quebec", by Julian Armstrong). If I don't like the result, I won't serve it--but I like the idea of it, especially in place of the traditional tomato slice. And I liked a "pickled green tomato" (fresh tomato slices in seasoned rice vinegar, so far as I could tell) included in a deluxe burger at one of Tom Douglas' restaurants in Seattle--the Dahlia Lounge, I think. I'm also going to do your suggestion of caramelized onions, though.

The croissant--wouldn't that be heavenly? I've seen brioche, which I personally would find too sweet.
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Old 07-27-2004, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelchick
Get 2 and if you have leftover foie gras, you can make dessert with it too.

Poached pear halves in red wine stuffed with seared, diced foie gras. Port reduction for sauce, etc. Yummy!
I used to have foie gras and eggs and toast for breakfast. Toast with crust removed of course
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Old 07-27-2004, 07:30 PM
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I saw a guy on TV the other day (Andrei what's-his-name from Norway) make a burger with foie gras. The burger was made with pork mixed with quail breast and some venison. He made a thin pattie, set a piece of foie gras on it and topped it with another thin pattie to enclose the foie. He grilled the whole lot topped with a Norwegian cheese. It looked really good although probably not something I would ever make. (Unless I win the lottery of course )

Jock
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