[MarkV]

Dear friends:

We all know that adding alcohol to cream can cause curdling. Thus, when making a cream based concoction, the wine or alcohol is added first, boiled off somewhat and then the cream can be added.

I came across this recipe from a well known chef in our area that I haven't made yet, but would like to get your opinions first.

It's basically a cream of mushroom soup. After sauteing the musrooms and onions in butter, he then adds 1 quart chicken stock and 3 cups light cream. That is simmered for 30 minutes and then wine and lemon juice is added. A roux is added to this and it is simmered for 5 minutes, and then it is finished with heavy cream.

My thinking is that the mushroom/onion saute should be deglazed with the wine/lemon juice first, then add the stock and light cream.

OR, does the the 1 quart of chicken stock provide enough liquid to keep the fat molecules in the light cream separated despite the post-cream addition of wine?

Mark

[Nick.Shu]

My instinct forces a rethink here - vis a vis.

From experience i would say addition of an acidulant would cause the splitting (rather than curdling) as opposed to the addition of alcohol. The addition of extra fat/liquid would rebind the solution. Another factor i would also include is the amount of reduction. Over reducing a cream sauce would also cause the mixture to split.

Interestingly enough is the addition of a roux. This appears to be fall back method of ensuring the mixture remains bound to each other. (can also add body or weight) and seems unnecessary. Modern/contemporary methods generally rely on reduction to provide strength of flavour. Deglazing serves to "lift the caramelised solids" off the pan and return them to assist in adding flavour to the end product.

Short answer, well make the recipe your way, if works then good if not then you have somewhere to start from and mentally work backwards

[kuan]

Your first instincts are correct. Deglaze, add stock (reduce?) and cream. I have a real problem with boiling or simmering alcohol. It's just not done unless you're braising something in wine.

Do it your way.

[Pete]

Mark, my guess would be that unless the recipe called for a considerable amount of wine and lemon juice then the stock is diluting it enough that the acid can't work on the cream. Though it can be done, why would you. You would have a much better flavor by deglazing the pan first with the alcohol, and reducing that. The lemon juice, I might wait until the very end, to give the soup a nice vibrant burst of acidity.

[MarkV]

Thank you guys.

I think I will add the alcohol first, maninly to deglaze and increase flavor.

Pete, I like your idea of saving the lemon juice for the very end. As you pointed out, you'll get more lemon bang for you buck.

Mark