Making a tomato sauce

[JonK]

Just what this post needs...someone else chiming in! But I can't resist. During the summer, when our Roma-type tomatoes are ripe, we find they make a better cooked sauce than canned. This is absolutely the case for uncooked pasta sauces (like salsa cruda: tomatoes, olive oil, vinegar, garlic and spices) and pretty much true for short-cooked sauces.

We also oven-dry our Romas for use later in the year. Since they are not completely dried, they go into the freezer in double layer bags.

Off season (we live in the northeast), we have yet to find tomatoes--no matter how or where they were grown that are as good as canned tomatoes. I find no consistent difference between whole or diced, organic or not, imported or domestic, though there are brand to brand variations. Also, we've had some good luck with aseptically packed products (the boxed things), which usually are cooked a shorter time, but again the brand variations dominate.

Watch out, however, for "pasta ready" or seasoning added (peppers, onions, basil, garlic, stc.) canned products. We've found that a number of these have added sugar which may not be what you want in a given recipe. You need to read the ingredient list.

We've also liked some of the fire-roasted canned products, but the post from the always inventive Suzanne has encouraged us to try roasting canned tomatoes ourselves. (Yet another example of what always draws me back to this site!)

[OahuAmateurChef]

When I first registered on this forum a couple of weeks ago I got a vague impression that some members of this forum are/were somewhat anti foodnetwork/foodtv.
That is too bad because I'd estimate that I've learned 80% of my culinary skills throught them. Care to debate? I am definitely pro-foodnetwork. But that is a subject for a different thread. Back to my point....

I once broiled canned whole tomatoes to make the sauce in this Alton Brown recipe:

http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/reci..._10743,00.html

Although the tomatoes broiled up just fine, I wasn't happy with the outcome of the sauce. I think it was my techinique though. I haven't given it another go.

This Tyler Florence recipe is my favorite for pasta sauce. It is actually from a chicken Parmesan recipe, but I like it with just pasta, and maybe some spicy sausage links:

http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/reci...ml?rsrc=search

[deltadoc]

Originally Posted by scott123

Well, this is all fairly subjective, but for pizza, I prefer a bright, acidic, fresher tasting sauce but for pasta/meatballs/lasagna I like the sweeter/duller flavor of a long simmered sauce (or a short simmered sauce that utilizes a dark shade of paste).

Not disagreeing with anything you pointed out, but just for clarity's sake, the reference I made to "encyclopizza" was for the part about the canned tomato process.

As anyone who has looked up the website, it is very Loooonnnggg, and deals primarily with all things pizza.

doc

[Stephanie Brim]

I know this is old, but I thought I'd share my most recent recipe for sauce.

I start with a large can of whole plum tomatoes (I actually like Hunts because they do seem to be plum tomatoes, which work the best). I cut off the hard ends and seed them, and then throw them, mostly whole, into a big bowl to await their fate. I also dump in the juice that's left in the can. I mince about 6 cloves of garlic and half a red onion and put those in their own bowls. A bit of fresh basil also, but not much. I dump a generous amount of olive oil into my favorite pan, let the oil heat, and then add my garlic and onion, sauteeing until tender and browned. I then add my tomatoes and tomato juice from the can, letting them get a bit tender before I break them up with my spoon. When things have started to come together a bit I add basil, salt, and pepper to taste, then let simmer until my desired thickness.

This seems to be a hit with most of my family and my boyfriend, not big on tomatoes but LOVES tomato sauce, can't get enough of it. I end up with a relatively thick sauce that has decent sized chunks of tomato. Interestingly enough, I find that I don't need sugar; I, personally, like a bit of bite to a pasta sauce.

Oh, and on the subject of olive oil; this has been said by other people time and time again, but it bears repeating, especially for sauces: buy the best you can afford. My favorite for sauce/frying equals out to about $18 per litre and my favorite for dipping/dressing is $35 per litre. I also always use extra virgin olive oil.

[mredikop]

Originally Posted by MikeLM

Several articles have recommended the Italian San Marzano variety, and we picked up six or eight cans when Whole Foods had them on sale a couple months ago. They make a very nice sauce, pretty much as described above.

Mike

San Marzano tomatoes are awesome but you have to watch the labels because there are two varieties. There are the real San Marzano tomatoes grown and canned in San Marzano, Italy and there is a San Marzano brand which are domestically produced (in the states). When I worked for EthnicGrocer.com we carried San Marzano brand made in New York but I had a friend going to Naples who sent me a few cans from San Marzano and they were superior in flavor.

To answer the question at hand about stuff to put in a red sauce I have found basil to be essential. Don't add it too early because it tends to darken and brown if it gets too hot. I also use a bay leaf or two, chopped red pepper or roasted red pepper flakes or roasted red peppers. I don't like to add too many colors to the sauce so I avoid yellow or green pepper.

I also used dried chipotle peppers and sun dried tomatoes a few times with mixed results.

Last night I made a red sauce and a pesto that both had chopped baby pearl onions and halved grape tomatoes. I also added basil, roasted garlic, salt, pepper, roasted red pepper flakes, and oregano.

In short experiment with your sauces. Who wants to make boring traditional stuff all the time? It doesn't have to be strictly "by the book" if you want to throw asparagus spears and chopped fennel bulbs in your sauce go nuts! Some of the most acclaimed chefs in the industry snub convention and get wild with their food. If you want to call your creation Italian red sauce it's your prerogative. Purists may disagree but your food is what you make it.

[Suzanne]

The January 2007 issue (#83) of Fine Cooking magazine has a recipe for a ragu for which you cook ribs on the bone in the sauce, then shred the meat back into the sauce. More elaborate than a simple tomato sauce, but, man, does it sound -- and look -- good.

[mredikop]

Oh man that does sound good.

[Mezzaluna]

Suzanne, my Romanian grandmother used to add chicken necks, etc. to the tomato sauce she made stuffed peppers in. I was always aggravated by the bones in the sauce, but you couldn't beat it for richness.

[shel]

I got this recipe from Cooks Illustrated. I was quite pleased with the reult. The recipe is a good base for adding other ingredients as well, but I liked it "straight." 1/2 tsp of red pepper flakes is a nice addition

This recipe makes enough to sauce more than a pound of pasta; leftovers can be refrigerated or frozen. Because canned tomatoes vary in acidity and saltiness, it's best to add salt, pepper, and sugar to taste just before serving. If you prefer a chunkier sauce, give it just three or four pulses in the food processor in step 4. Makes 4 cups

2 (28 ounce) cans whole tomatoes , packed in juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion , chopped fine (about 1 cup)
2 medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/3 cup dry red wine , such as Chianti or Merlot
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Table salt and ground black pepper
1 - 2 teaspoons sugar , as needed (see note above)


1. Pour tomatoes and juice into strainer set over large bowl. Open tomatoes with hands and remove and discard fibrous cores; let tomatoes drain excess liquid, about 5 minutes. Remove 3/4 cup tomatoes from strainer and set aside. Reserve 2 1/2 cups tomato juice and discard remainder.

2. Heat olive oil in large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden around edges, 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic and oregano and cook, stirring constantly, until garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds.

3. Add tomatoes from strainer and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring every minute, until liquid has evaporated and tomatoes begin to stick to bottom of pan and brown fond forms around pan edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Add wine and cook until thick and syrupy, about 1 minute. Add reserved tomato juice and bring to simmer; reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally and loosening browned bits, until sauce is thick, 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Transfer sauce to food processor (or transfer to saucepan and insert immersion blender; see the related article "Do You Really Need a Hand Blender?") and add reserved tomatoes; process until slightly chunky, about eight 2-second pulses. Return sauce to skillet and add basil and extra-virgin olive oil and salt, pepper, and sugar to taste.

[shel]

Originally Posted by Suzanne

The January 2007 issue (#83) of Fine Cooking magazine has a recipe for a ragu for which you cook ribs on the bone in the sauce, then shred the meat back into the sauce. More elaborate than a simple tomato sauce, but, man, does it sound -- and look -- good.

Hi,

I couldn't find the recipe. Perhaps you can provide a specific pointer to it or maybe post it. Recently I came across two recipes that sound similar. I'd love to compare them and maybe post one or both of the others. Thanks!

Shel