just thought i'd add my 2cents worth.
i think the verb "to monte au beurre" or "to mount with butter" and the noun "beurre monte" are two different things.
you can finish any sauce with a couple chunks of cold whole butter off the heat to add nice thickness, sheen, and flavor to the sauce. this is the verb.
the noun is essentially just butter, but the trick is that it's in a liquid form, but still emulsified. it's whole butter, not clarified, but it's liquid and it's not separated. the tecnique described above is a good one, and is detailed in both mcgee and thomas kellers french laundry cookbook.
in french laundry, keller mentions that he "rests" just-cooked meats in this beurre monte, in order to seal in the juices. mcgee's analysis talks about whether you can sear meat, therefore sealing in juices, and he says no you can't, which i agree with. but keller's technique (an ingenius one) is to submerge a just-cooked piece of meat in this warm liquid whole butter, therefore keeping the meat warmer during resting than if it was just sitting on your board, and giving the juices nowhere to go since the meat is submerged in the butter. tastes good too! i had never heard of this before reading french laundry and am now convinced that this is among the reason's why thomas keller is a genius and innovator. |