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  #1  
Old 09-10-2008, 07:29 PM
RPMcMurphy Offline
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Default Potato Gnocchi - How to get just a LITTLE more fluffy/light

2 decent sized russets - baked, peeled, then riced

Added a large egg yolk

2tbs butter

and about 1 cup flour....

worked it for a little bit, rolled out, cut, then sauteed a little under medium heat in some duck fat.

amazing tasting, but I'm trying to recreate a dish from our favourite restaurant and thiers is just a little lighter, almost melts in your mouth, like it's filled with air.






don't get me wrong, they were very light and fluffy, but still not my 4-star joint.

input? neeeeeeed innnnpuuuuttt.....
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:07 PM
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RPM,

They look great. To make them lighter, two, maybe three, things: First, cut the flour by about 1/4 or 1/3. As little flour as you can get by with and still have them hold together. Second, when you make the dough, treat them like biscuits or pie crust -- "work" as little as possible. The optional third is to poach until they rise up to the surface, before draining, drying and browning.

BDL

Last edited by boar_d_laze; 09-10-2008 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 09-11-2008, 07:51 AM
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RPMc,

When are we having potato gnocchi again?
What else did you prepare to go with the potato gnocchi? Any plating pictures to go with it?
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:32 AM
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Seared duck breast with a little redwine pan sauce and sauteed spinach, nothing special....



I know I know, this is NRatcheds plate, she likes her duck a little (a lot) more cooked than I do.
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:47 AM
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As BDL said.....less flour.....perhaps omit the butter and use just a little
EVOO.......you might try using OO flour as well....the trick is to use as little
flour as possible.....and to work just enough to incorporate into a smooth mixture that will roll out....You don't have to brown them either....once the float remove and add to sauce....good luck.....
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Old 09-11-2008, 10:27 AM
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thanks!

any suggestions for a sauce? At the restaurant I am trying to replicate they serve a little dish with the gnocchi, sugar snap peas and braised artichoke, but not sure the sauce. but it's heaven on a plate.

I'm going to try again today as, i think as it was pretty easy, and think i can nail it. I'm real close.

I like them a LITTLE browned or crispy.
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Last edited by RPMcMurphy; 09-11-2008 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 09-11-2008, 11:03 AM
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The gnocchi at Nicholas (the restaurant I oggle over) is on the menu as Parisienne Gnocchi, but I'm quite sure it has potato. (although maybe not?)

As i posted about in my blog, should I continue to try and replicate with a pate a choux/parisienne method (something like Fotocuisine Blog Archive Gnocchi Parisienne with Vegetables) ....or just make "mine" better

i mean, duck fat makes everything better! although I may try a quick poach with my method and less flour first.
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Last edited by RPMcMurphy; 09-11-2008 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:17 PM
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As far as sauces go......Pomodoro with grated Ricotta Salate over the top or
Cream, Gorganzola, and Speck......being lactose intolerant, I go with the first suggestion most of the time....they are great with pesto, or a duck ragu even. Believe it or not...they freeze well also.....dust them down with a little flour and semolina....freeze them on a sheet pan.....store them iqf in ziplocs.
Pop them in the water frozen.....good luck.....
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:33 PM
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Parisian gnocchi is simply choux-paste, there's typically no potato in it (unless you want to make a variation).
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueicus View Post
Parisian gnocchi is simply choux-paste, there's typically no potato in it (unless you want to make a variation).
yep, that's what my research tells me too, however for some strange reason I think that the one at my fav restaurant does...I've had it a few times, and remember them explaining it, heck, sat in the kitchen while they were making it, but it was after a bottle of wine.
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:56 PM
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Try putting your gnocchi together by cutting all the ingredients together with two bench knives--it's loud, but it's a great way to get out some aggression without overworking the dough. Don't use them to smear the dough, just to cut straight down through it. I agree with cutting down a bit on the flour and/or using 00 flour.
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:29 PM
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What makes them light as air is ... (wait for it) air.

When you make the dumplings, what you want to do is create (or leave) air pockets. When the dumplings are cooked the first time the air heats up and expands and the dumplings get larger and light.

Choux paste and potato gnocchi both rely on turning their internal moisture into steam to open the structure. Choux paste relies on a lot of fat to surround each grain of flour; while potato gnocchi use the structure of the potato. That's why it's important not to overwork them. With potato gnocchi it's important not to put too much flour in because it dries them out and the steam can't work it's magic.

You poach first, in order to form the steam which expands the dumplings. BTW, that's why dumplings float. When they swell -- they displace a greater mass of water than their own weight and become bouyant as a result.

Jenni's board knife method sounds like fun. I usually use the volcano with two forks or just paws.

BDL
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:33 PM
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It all depends on what you're into, BDL! Seriously, this is a technique that all of our cooks were required to learn (because our chef had learned it that way, of course). It does make for a really light gnocchi. As far as I know, the technique came from Bacchanalia in Atlanta, but I'm sure it could be traced back farther than that.
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfield View Post
It all depends on what you're into, BDL! Seriously, this is a technique that all of our cooks were required to learn (because our chef had learned it that way, of course). It does make for a really light gnocchi. As far as I know, the technique came from Bacchanalia in Atlanta, but I'm sure it could be traced back farther than that.
I'm sure it can be. Sounds very old country. I doubt it's much different from two fork or two knife cutting in. What I like about the volcano/hand method is absolute control over the amount of flour. The downside I guess, is the dough takes some working. I try to make up for it by rolling out the snakes a very soft touch. Always seeking that balance.

You do realize that in two months RPM is going to be kicking our butts on this, don't you? The guy is a monster; I'm not sure we should be giving him more advice.

BDL
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:17 PM
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We're tough (but not our gnocchi); we can take it!
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