Ferrran Adria

[alexia]

I almost put this under "Repast from the Past" with the subheading, "Repast from the Future." You may be interested in reading this review of Ferran Adria in the Observer:

http://www.observer.co.uk/foodmonthl...753619,00.html

[Isa]

Thanks for the link Alexia, I don't know why but it made me think of the Soup **** episode on Seinfeld...


So he started the foam thing. It still doesn't appeal to me.

[Mezzaluna]

I'm with you, Iza. A lot too contrived and self-conscious for me. If I would fear being intimidated and sneered at in a restaurant (or any business), I would avoid such a place.

[alexia]

Avoiding Adria's restaurant is a lot easier than getting there.

OTOH, the trip to get there sounds like fun.

[chrose]

I don't know which is worse; the writing or the story itself.
This is all just a little too much for me. It borders teeteringly on absurd.
Of course that's just my opinion, but life is too short, you couldn't pay me to indulge this "chefs" (and I use that term loosely) flights of fancy. Or am I just in a pissy mood today?

[judy]

I love it. different, outlandish and mainly it makes people happy. I wish I had his imagination.

[DaveB]

At first, my reaction to Adria was scorn. Like, I mean, post-modern, deconstructionist cooking?

Then, upon further reflection, I found beneath the chi-chi surface of foams and precious little bits of stuff (to be eaten in exactly two bites) something worth thinking about: that our idea of a "meal" is rooted in custom and not in any rational theory of gastronomy. Other cultures structure the presentation of food quite differently. Moreover, changing this basic "meal plan" seems harder than changing the underlying food. Most Japanese and Chinese restaurants in the U.S. have altered the traditional oriental meal structure to suit our idea of appetizer, soup, entree, dessert.

Maybe it takes wierd stuff like Adria's to break free of the tyranny of the 5-course (or however many) meal. Normal food presented out of the customary sequence would probably be rejected out of hand. By erasing all cultural associations from his food ("this is dessert, not a first course"), he is free to present flavors and textures in a completely free manner.

That said, you won't find me going to Adria's place any time soon, although I may start playing around with numerous small courses instead of the normal "meal".

[Kimmie]

For those interested, here's one from The Wine News along with recipes, complete with foam.

«Parmesan Ice Cream Sandwich» anyone?

[alexia]

Kimmie, thanks for posting the link to the Wine News article. The Observer article was more from the tourist's point of view. This one concentrated more on the food.

I particularly liked Kotkin's analogy in the Wine News between Adria's changing foods by manipulating the forms in which they're served to the transformation of grapes into wine. I think that our modern way of life has made us take many of these transformations for granted as we open a bottle of ketchup, mustard, or vinegar, or pop a bit of cheese into our mouths. Their familiarity makes us forget the magical processes that change soy, wheat, and corn (for example) into their many guises. The more I think about the original discovery and "invention" of these forms of foods by ancient people without precedents, the more amazing I find it. Or to discover how to change food that is inedible or even toxic in one form into something that becomes a food staple such as taro root or olives. Whipping up a little foam doesn't seem like such a big deal.

But, the next time I go to Spain...

[cape chef]

IMHO,

Adria is on to something!

(like you didn't already know)

Sorry folks,he's amazing.....

He is for sure on my life long wish list to eat his food.

[Rachel]

Ferran Adria doesn't live in a place where people pander to fashion with food. i know quite a few people who have been to his restaurant and i have always heard that it is a most amazing experience. The comment i remember is from a lawyer friend who lives in Figueres (where the Dali museum is and just near to Rosas) who said that it wasn't the place to go if you were hungry (make sure you eat Catalan bread and tomato before you go!) but that it was an incredible experience, but that you had to really pay attention to what you ate (difficult when you are trying to impress a client) to appreciate exactly what you ate.
Also, to be fair, a large number of his clients are Catalan Govt members who go to impress foreign visitors or each other. So, who really knows? But if you have the opportunity and the money, go and see what's it like, so many others would want to be in your position!

[shroomgirl]

A couple of years ago Thomas Keller was at a small luncheon in St. Louis, the question was asked,"where would you like to dine?"
The chef behind me and I said at the same time "El Bulli"....a few seconds later Thomas responded with the same answer.....I love the way he thinks.