Cleaning Cast Iron

[kernels33]

I just purchased a new Lodge Cast Iron 10.5" frying pan.

I will season it (thanks to you guys but how do I clean it from then on?

Thanks,
Mike

[foodnfoto]

I always clean my cast iron by sprinkling it generously with kosher salt, heating it up (just until it smokes a little) then scrubbing it with a wooden spatula and a wad of paper towels. Once all the cooked on bits are scrubbed loose, dump out the salt and rub with a dampened paper towel to get rid of all the rest. Then rub with oil, warm it again, and let cool. It sounds troublesome, but it's not really and it gets that pretty black patina very quickly.

[kernels33]

Yesterday I sanded an old rusted, round cast iron griddle we've had for years. Washed it throughly, wiped dry, then applied vegie oil all over it. Cooked for bout 60 minutes on 315. When it was done, let it cool but it appeared very sticky.

Did I do something wrong, or is that how they should feel? Seems like they would attract dust hmmmmmmm .

Thanks,
Mike

[firepatrolchef]

Welllllllll~
the way I was taught to season cast iron...and its WELL worth the work and burns...
heat it for five minutes on high heat.....pour in kosher salt and scrub down good and hard with a metal mesh pot scrubber...NOT the kind fo rstianless...you want this sucker rough and scratchy...repeat twice more.
Then...
heat for five minutes over high heat....throw in a tablespoon of vegetable oil....rub it in good....let cool and wipe out excess with paper towels.
Do this about five times.
One the skin on my right index finger grew back (I wore fire gloves!) and the skin on my left palm loosened back up...I had a set of vintage cast iron to DIE for.
Hey we all suffer for our art...right?

[kernels33]

<bows in courteous appreciation>

[alexia]

Has anyone thought of using a variable speed drill with a metal brush instead of one's elbow?

[kernels33]

I used a drill and sanding disk Alexia. But I may have worked it too much taking it down to silver metal.

However, I went through the seasoning process anyway, so I am hoping it will work. Actually this was a cheap 10" griddle so if it doesnt work, I'm not out much. Just purchased a new lodge 10.5" fry pan that I will season and an old Griswold that I will refurbish. Here's how I was told to do it:

http://members.tripod.com/~pblamar/g...seasoning.html

How I clean & prepare my cast iron
by Lamar
This is the method that I use to clean and season my cast iron. This is not a recommendation, it is just the way that I've found that works best for me.
Supplies:
1) A heavy duty plastic container with a sealable cover. This container must be large enough to where the cast iron can be totally submerged in liquid with at least 1 inch of liquid over the top of the cast iron and four to ten inches of space until the cover is reached.
2) "Red Devil Lye". It comes in cans and I use one can per five gallons of water.
3) "Scotch Brite" pads.
4) Brass bristled brushes.
5) "Dawn" dish washing liquid.
6) Vinegar
7) Mineral oil.
8) Cheap white shortening.
9) Eye protection, dish washing rubber gloves.

Cleaning:
If the cast iron has a carbon build up (usually black and hard, filling in the indentions so it's hard to read the logo), I soak it in a mixture of "Red Devil Lye" and water at a one can to five gallons ratio. To prepare the mixture, dump the Lye into your container and break up the large pieces. Then slowly add water, stirring all of the time. DO NOT BREATHE THE FUMES, THEY ARE LETHAL. When you no longer can see the lye, the mixture is ready. USE GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION. This needs to be done outdoors, not inside your home. Do not do it where children can get into the container.
Slowly place the cast iron into the mixture. Do not let the liquid touch you. USE GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION. Place the cover on the container and let it sit. In hot weather, the carbon will be gone in four to ten days. It takes longer in cooler weather. Check your cast iron every once in a while. I use fireplace tongs to lift the cast iron.
It is finished when the carbon build up is gone to your satisfaction. Remove the cast iron from the mixture and clean with water. Since this is done out doors, I use my garden hose and spray the cast iron with the strongest flow of water that I can.
Now, if you want to, everything else can be done indoors.
I then clean the cast iron with "Dawn" dish washing liquid. I use the "Scotch Brite" pads and the brushes to get the finish the way that I want it. Rinse with water. Now, soak the cast iron in a mixture of water and vinegar for thirty minutes. This helps eliminate rust and rusting. Now, one more time with the "Dawn".
Dry the cast iron and it should look like new.

Seasoning:
Immediately after cleaning, it needs to be seasoned. Whether for cooking or displaying, it still needs to be seasoned.
If it is going to be displayed or stored, I use mineral oil. Use you fingers and rub a light amount of mineral oil on to the cast iron. Once completely covered, wipe off any excess with a paper towel. It is now ready. The finish will be slightly tacky and that will go away with time.
To harden the mineral oil finish, the cast iron can be placed into a 300 degree oven for one hour. This is hot stuff so watch yourself.

If it is going to be cooked in, I use a cheap white shortening. First I warm the cast iron in a 300 degree oven. Then with my fingers I apply a light coating of the shortening and then return the cast iron to the oven for one hour. After an hour I remove the cast iron and apply a thinner coat of shortening and place it back into the over for another hour. Then the oven is turned off and the cast iron can be removed and hung to try. THIS IS HOT STUFF, USE LOTS OF POT HOLDERS. Once it has cooled off, the finish will be hard and slick, no tackiness.

Miscellaneous:
The lye water mixture can be used many times. You can tell when it's time to change the mixture by the extended time it takes to remove carbon. Dump the mixture down a drain that goes into a sewage system. Do not dump out doors, it can harm the environment.
I have left cast iron in the mixture for up to a year without any problems.
With gem pans, cornbread pans, and with some rust problems, I've had to use a "Drexel" drill to clean out some of the small spaces.

AGAIN, THIS IS MY METHOD. IT IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION FOR YOU TO DO THIS AND I
ASSUME NO LIABILITY IF YOU DECIDE TO USE THIS METHOD.

[foodnfoto]

Good grief! Your method, though effective, seems a little heavy handed to me. Kind of like using a blow torch to light a cigarette.

Old cast iron is remarkably resilient and if rusty only needs a wire brush and some steel wool to clean up beautifully. Another method I've used to great success is to place your pan in a self-cleaning oven and turn on the self cleaning feature. Wait until the whole process is finished and the oven is cool. You will have a pan that looks brand new (needing seasoning) with just a wipe with a damp paper towel to remove the loose rust and cooking residue.

Many years ago I stumbled across an old abandoned shed. Inside was an old sewing machine, violin and several rusty cast iron pans. I took the sewing machine to be cleaned and have the cord replaced-runs like a dream. The violin was refurbished and restrung, and I used the self-cleaning oven method on the cast iron. I have been using those pieces now for over 15 years.
Watch that lye--very poisonous and dangerous to keep around-especially if young kids are nearby.

[tpaul]

Here's Lodge's site for some additional information.
http://www.lodgemfg.com/useandcare.asp

If you have a lot of built up gunk on the pans you can also set them in a fire, ie. campfire, and burn the gunk off, then reseason.

[kernels33]

Gosh- this has helped so much. Thank you!
Mike

[marmalady]

Ummm- if you're cleaning off your salt mixture on a hot skillet, try using your trusty tongs to hold the wire brush or metal pad. Sure saves those fingers!