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Posts by boar_d_laze

Nest time you make miche or boule, try this:    Find a ball or tightly woven basket ("banneton"), the bottom of which is close to the eventual shape you'd like.  Mix, knead and proof the loaf as before, until you get to the stage where you form the ball; Form the ball by using the "pull down" technique, in order to get a lot of "surface tension" on the crust, while keeping as much air in the dough as possible; Place the ball, seam side up, in your bowl...
Anyone who can grind down a Sab fingerguard with sandpaper is my hero.    I used to use a coarse India, but it takes too long.  Now I use a drum attachment on my dremel.  You want to grind enough off the sides of the finger guard so the finger-guard doesn't fight you when you sharpen.  That's easiest done if you also grind enough off the back to expose at least 1/4" of cheek.    Either use a vise or at least clamp the knife to the table, and hold the dremel with...
Originally Posted by Amused    Not at all.   There's really not much of a comparison because they're so different.   Konosuke: The Kono HD is a laser.  The first thing to understand about a laser is that it's a laser.  You either want a laser or you don't.  They all have the same weaknesses, and most of them have the same strengths.  While there are differences between the top stainless lasers as compared to one another, they are extremely subtle -- if ever there were a...
21cm vs 24cm is more important than Misono Sweden vs Masamoto HC.  Everything else being equal I slightly prefer the HC, but without getting into subtle nuances, the difference between 21cm and 24cm is more unequal than you might think.  The 24cm Masa is about $30 more than the Misono, right?    The Misono Sweden is a great knife.  Not so much a caveat, but something you should know is that it's very reactive at least until you get a good patina going.  And the...
Konosuke's semi-stainless is darn near stainless if you wipe it down as you work.    It will develop spots if you leave it sitting around, especially if you've been cutting something acidic, it gets a bunch of salt on it, etc.  Those come off easily with baking soda and a Scotch-Brite.  I'm not sure about the patina -- my habits won't allow one to form.    The big "advantage" of HD and White #2 compared to stainless is the respective feels of the different alloys...
teamfat my brother,   Give with the recipe.   BDL
There reason you're getting that tight, cake-like crumb is that you're collapsing the open structure created during the rise by the way you handle the raw dough.    90% of your problem is formation.  You lack "touch," don't know how to form a loaf of bread by hand yet, and you're killing the bread's final texture when you try.  In essence, you're trying to run before you've learned how to walk.    If you want early success, start by baking in pans or at least...
Posted by chefedb    Only problem with that Ed is the rule of GIGO.    If you don't source good beans, grind them yourself at their best post-roasting rest, and don't store them in such a way that staling is prevented (if you store them at all), homemade pods mean inexpensive bad coffee instead of expensive mediocre coffee.  Hard to say where the value line falls on that one.    As always with these sorts of things, Good, mediocre, or bad, depends on how you judge as much...
Posted by dauphinkaffee    To what does "They" refer?  The pods?   BDL
Posted by Crispy    70/30 isn't a lot of asymmetry, and a CC can handle it -- as long as you don't mind 15* bevel angles.    I think though, that when you step up into the Uraku class, you're cheating yourself of what the knife can really do by using something like a CC, pull-through, or (God forbid) a "Sharpmaker."    As with all things Gesshin, talk to Jon.    BDL
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