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Posts by Benuser

As for sharpening, knowing these knives a bit, I would aim for a convexed bevel on the right side, ending at some 12 degree, and a very small straight bevel of some 20 degree on the left one, to compensate a bit for steering. They come from the factory with a much finer edge, so very little work has to be done to change it. These are really mini- and micro-bevels. But first see Mr Broida's videos so you get an idea of what sharpening is about.
But before sharpening it, you'll have to create a patina. The acid stuff will dull the edge a bit, and once a patina got installed sharpening becomes much easier, as you can actually see where steel got abraded.
A 800-1200 and a 3000-4000, both JIS -- Japanese grit system.
Good knife, great F&F at this price point. A few things you should be aware of, though. It is highly reactive, so you really need to force a patina. No big deal, hot vinegar, coffee, lemon, mustard, all will do. It is strongly right-biased. The edge is off-centered to the left. The right bevel is large, the left one very small. Definitely not for left-handers. As with most factory knives, the edge out-of-the-box is rather weak, and somewhat unpredictable. The end-user...
You can go much further by thinning behind the edge -- also known as creating a relief bevel. Sharpen both sides at the lowest angle you're comfortable with, and stop just before reaching the very edge. Verify with the marker trick or examine the scratch pattern. After this thinning the very edge may require a touch-up.
Heel area is often a bit thicker than others and needs longer sharpening. Neglect, perhaps by use of a jig system. No real burr raised with previous sharpenings. Often seen as well with soft steels that have been steeled.
Recurve belly due to a protruding heel. Cut the heel first @80 degree on both sides, then check the entire profile for gaps. Breading on a stone it is called to remediate. Will involve a lot of thinning afterwards before you have a decent edge again.
Reduce above the edge, but start with the shoulders. When these are thin, you may apply very conservative edges, it will cut like crazy.
Standard figures I like: @1cm 1mm; @5mm 0.5mm; above the edge 0.2mm Sorry for those used to the Imperial system.
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