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Posts by Benuser

Have a blade with some convexity on the right face, thin behind the edge and put a conservative edge on it. Never seen an edge chipping on stones -- during sharpening.
A narrower blade will cause less dragging.
When the paring knife is meant for peeling, better have a Robert Herder peeler or a Misono fruit knife, unless you're left-handed. Both have an inverted geometry, i.e. right face flat, left one convexed. For other small tasks I prefer a petty.
Broida's videos are excellent. Get a basic carbon steel knife for practice: an carbon Opinel, or a simple Robert Herder.
Have a look at the reports on the yo-blades by Masamoto from the last five years. The ones I handled myself just confirmed this impression.
Steeling VG-10 will result in an accumulation of fatigued steel on top of the edge, a so-called wire edge. Crazy sharp but will fail after a few strokes, leaving a perfectly unusable blunt blade.
Masamoto is inconsistent in Fit&Finish. High prices and lack of quality controll. Better have a Misono. I would prefer the 440-series. A bit harder.
I would get a 2k stone as well, in case a few strokes on the 6k won't do the job and you don't need a full sharpening. And in a normal sharpening routine, some of the burr is still there after the 800. Getting rid of it with the 6k will take a lot of time and is likely to induce errors and weakening of the edge. With a 2k in between the use of the 6k will be limited to a few edge trailing and some ultimate deburring.
You may get the Takamura R2 with chuboknives, they send directly from Japan. Not so sure whether that's a good idea, as you are new to stone sharpening, factory edges tend to be weak and require immediate sharpening and some steel removed, and R2/SG2 is quite abrasion resistant.
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