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Posts by Benuser

Putting a strictly symmetric edge on an essentially asymmetric blade will work for one or two sharpening sessions. After that, expect heavy steering and wedging. Better start sharpening the right side fairly behind the edge and follow its convexity. Put a straight bevel at a much higher angle on the left side to balance friction.
And especially under difficult circumstances things like grids and angles become interesting. The only steels I've seen that hold on crappy poly boards when dicing 15 kilos of fat beef were AS and SLD, both with very conservative edges.
Nothing wrong with the Victorinox. I happen to sharpen them for a welfare kitchen where they take a lot of abuse. I use a Chosera 400 to thin behind the edge and sharpen, and deburr with a green Scotch pad. So they last much longer than sharpened with any powered device. With a VG-10 blade as the OP's Shun such an approach can't be advised. The main difficulty in sharpening VG-10 is in the need of carefully abrading the burr at still higher grids. For some a 4k will...
...and find out after a few weeks that even easy tasks become more and more difficult since the blade has thickened behind the edge.
Clean and wipe off using a linen towel, both for stainless and carbons. Yes, it helps keeping the edge.
A good sharpening starting behind the edge will improve any blade. Most knives, cheap and more expensive, come with a poor edge.
I didn't speak about the edge, but a good edge should be in conformity with the grind.
The grind is how a blade evolves from spine to edge (from a few mm to perhaps 0.2mm above the edge) and from choil to tip.
To give an idea of what a more elaborate grind can be: more convex at the base, flatter towards the tip. Great in combination with a strong distal taper. Or S-like geometries: very thin behind the edge and still allowing a good food separation. And above all: consistency, no excessive high and low spots, absence of overgrinds.
I should have added that carbon steel and plastic boards don't go very well together. Best result so far with Aogami Super with a very conservative edge, and for non-carbons, SLD and, surprisingly, Krupp's 4116 by W├╝sthof.
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