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Posts by Benuser

To the OP: don't skip a 2k! Forget almost every behind it, but that one is really essential. You remove almost all burr.
I would like to add that micro-chipping is very, very common with all kinds of steel OOTB and is often remediated by a few sharpenings where a bit of steel got abraded. Must have to do with factory buffering I guess. Don't hesitate to use a rather coarse -- i.e. JIS 400-500 -- stone and start fairly behind the very edge.
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/5656-Asymmetry-%E2%80%93-The-REAL-DEAL/page11 cysoon: see post 109 about steering.
Profile is similar to the pre-war area, stainless isn't that common in Europe before the sixties. This together with the Trident mention makes me think it is from the fifties and meant for the American market. We had a similar case with early French stainless. Please note the blade length in inches.
It has to do with old intellectual property law in continental Europe. The oldest protection was a registered mark, a symbol, and Wüsthof chose a trident (Dreizack in German).
Yes, for learning you better have a basic carbon steel. Meanwhile the Wüsthof has to get sharpened. And is quite abrasion resistant. You won't change it's geometry by accident.
It's just a property of that German steel. Carbides breaking out of the matrix when the edge got finely polished. Keep it a bit coarse and you will be fine.
Soft stainless won't hold a polished edge. Get a 400-500 stone and deburr with a green Scotch pad, felt, dry sponge.
Taking back and forth over leather?
Thanks, Rick. Makes sense.
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