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Posts by Benuser

Great to hear BDL is fine. I would like to endorse Phaedrus' words of gratitude.
I would avoid "walking" though. No lateral forces on these edges please. I use a soft carbon with a flat section, holding it by the spine in the middle with my left hand, and the right one on the bolster. But my somewhat harder Misono carbon is flat enough for the same.
For those who don't read German: a few observations I've noticed: very expensive, very unusual profiles, valuable materials, thick behind the edge, lot of marketing stuff, no clarity about steel formula and heat treatment. Good performance, nothing that exceptional. At that price point you may get much better by good bespoke knife makers. My own comment: if you're uncertain about your own preferences better have a middle-of-the-road gyuto, fine tune your technique perhaps...
Sharp, Brian!
Here a few comments from our German counterparts: http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?87809-Nesmuk-kann-das-was
Using a steeling rod is the object of a lot of debating. If it's a very finely polished one, you may use it on soft carbon steel. Better use the rough -- split -- side of leather or a fine stone for stropping. On stainless though it will invariably lead to a wire edge.
I've seen a few from serious chefs who'd used them if it were Goldhamsters. So imagine the damage. But I never found them particulary difficult to sharpen. Just thought their owners would have been better served with a slightly less hardened steel, and some good instructions.
No experience with PM-steels, with AEB-L though make sure to abrade the burr with a fine stone.
Vintages aren't always cheaper than new ones, and will often need a lot of work. Think about correcting the profile, especially reverse bellies and protruding heels. A new Fujiwara will cost some $80. A good vintage carbon Sabatier or Sheffield will cost between $150 and $200.
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