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Posts by LennyD

The answer above is spot on, and I would only add that each particular knife and steel has its own specific pluses and minuses.Some are just able to hold a more acute angle better, and others just easier to sharpen that way. Some seem to be impossible to remove a burr, while others just melt away.Our technique can vary the results as well. Our ability to hold the same angle, feel and remove a burr at coarse grit levels, or even what may be used to pull through to break...
Just a couple quick thoughts to keep in mind   As mentioned previously it becomes much more difficult to feel a burr as they become ever so small as you get into the finer stones. They are still there though, and with the help of magnification they can be pretty obvious.   Removing a burr when still on more coarse stones is seriously important to not add insane levels of work trying to remove on the next finer stone. Since if you leave a burr from the previous stone...
Not that old, and sometimes received wisdom can be wise.
I can't argue with that, but still find counting strokes therapeutic, and part of the monotonous type stress relief that sharpening can be Also is it not interesting to explain how to feel for a burr. I have never been comfortable posting on this without a novel followed by a disclaimer lol. Have to continue to address it though because it is so important, and whenever I get a tough one I just remind myself of the Henckels that drove me here in the first place."Hold that...
Kickling now the fun begins Sounds like your on a good track so far, and just being able to see and later feel when things are not just right is a big step and will provide great feedback to future changes to your technique. Far as the tip area is concerned I think most all have difficulty at least in the beginning and I still have to be careful to be sure to change my angle against the stone to avoid changing the actual angle of the edge at the tip.
  Judging by the ever increasing amount of adds and the serious work out the anti tracking programs on my computer are getting I would have to say more than a few lol.
I totally understand, and i dint think anyone made stone choice more complicated than I did (just look at my threads here lol).Only other suggestion I can think to add is that going from 800 to 5-6k can be a large gap and force a lot of extra time on the finer stone due to having to remove the deeper scratches etc.I have found that though sometimes it is more than others depending on the steel and actual size of the scratches being removed but I have found reducing the gap...
Wanted to add that when looking at grit numbers or ratings etc that there are three different standards organizations that may be used when a manufacturer is rating the abrasive or coarseness of their products There are sizable difference in the American, European and Japanese systems, and the actual micron size of the abrasives used within similar numbered grits. I have not looked at this in a few years, but remember from a post I did previously that the JIS (Japanese...
Though just like the wall street guru's disclaimer that past experience is no guarantee of the future my expectations are that there will not be any major changes in currency exchange, but either way I would not expect to see the typical yearly increases in prices (everyone in business looks forward to those lol) go away anytime soon.In my personal knife rack the age ranges from 2-5 except one much older odd ball, and I see them all selling higher used now than I paid...
I'm not avoiding the question but if you get bored and have extra time there are countless "good" threads here on the topic of lower cost j knives, and many including the one in my signature that address some of the differences and how to help one determine how to find what's best for them. That said a lot to do with making a good suggestion or even decision has to do with your technique, experience, and personal preference. If you don't like or feel comfortable with a...
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