New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by wunderbier

  You and me both. Despite my best efforts to prevent it, mine (10" chef's) recently achieved a perfectly flat heel and predictably started producing accordion cuts on slightly concave boards. It otherwise felt kind of "off" during use. I asked BDL a long time ago if I could use a metal file to take the finger guard back some. He said "yes" if and only if it was my knife. Which it is, so I did.   I'm pretty happy with the results and it was surprisingly quick for not...
@ BDL. What do you figure (any) Sabatier's current carbon steel is? I was guessing the other day that it might be something straightforward in the 10XX series, but I have no reference points to back that up. It was just conjecture based on the knives being relatively inexpensive and not marketing the type of carbon steel. Thoughts?  
This thing perhaps? I have no idea about it, just remembered seeing it a few weeks back browsing that website. Looks interesting, but maybe problematic with longer, straighter knives. Dunno.
Indeed. Maybe BDD8 would find this steel guide illuminating.
There's a picture on this page. As you can imagine, it's the inevitable outcome of sharpening on a wheel. Which isn't to say that wheels aren't use in making traditional Japanese knives, just that they're inappropriate for the final edge. Here's a Tormek in action for comparison.
  I have a K-Sab. Just one 10" carbon chef's knife I bought last year and I'm pretty new to all of this still, but there you go. In terms of my knife right now, it's pretty great but it requires a good deal of honing and it's been a labor of love. I had an issue with the blade coming to me bent, sent it back, they straightened it and sent it back. It still wasn't perfect IMHO, but that's life. The OOTB sharpness and profile was pretty terrible for me. I've thinned behind...
  This is not them?       Sounds right to me! Good luck and enjoy at any rate!
Why not just send Mark from Chef Knives To Go and email with your question regarding Tojiro Zen/DP?
Yesterday I fixed this same problem on my chef knife in the exact same way. I guess by either freehand or with a clamp system it's natural to abrade less material right at the heel, because the heel (and tip) doesn't get a "double pass" via overlapping sections the way every other bit of the blade does. I wonder, is simply focusing a little longer on the heel than the rest of the blade for each session the appropriate preventative measure for this problem?  
I'm by no means the most experienced sharpener on this forum, but if your edges are dulling after a few hours of use it sounds like you have a classic case of "wire edge". A ceramic steel would likely rip that wire edge right off, but at the cost of taking the scratch pattern down from 4k to roughly 1k. A leather strop or hard felt deburring block (or cork, or end-grain wood) might remove it with less drastic effect. What are you using right now for deburring anyway?
New Posts  All Forums: