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Posts by jimbo68

If you cannot get service from Boos, the board can be repaired by sawing the board in two along the crack, and regluing. If you do it carefully, there will be no need for resurfing. Cracked boards are generally the result of climate differences. Wood swells and shrinks based on humidity.
Are you sure you got dry scallops? I have had that problem with wet packed scallops.
I think a 270 is a litle much for a first and only Gyuto. I am fairly large, and I have a 240 and 210. Mostly I use the 240. I bought my son a 270 and he thinks it is too large. He stands 6' 10" and is an athlete. I'd go for a 240 if I were you.
I think that Wiki's time line on the changes is incorrect.  I tagged beef for a few years starting in 1965 and at that time there were Prime, Choice, and Good.  The grade was based on quality and yield.  I think it was around 1975 that good disappeared and select came into being.   The standards were changed, and the yield factor was eliminated,   I'm not 100% sure but I know good was around as long as I worked a packing house.
One other thing about wood boards.  They can be resurfaced if the face gets too beat up.  You can do it yourself with a sander or scraper, or get a cabinet shop with a thickness sander to do it for you. 
Sorry, I did not go back to another thread in 2006. 
The only reference to 500 degrees I saw above was mine, and I did not say to set the oven to 500 degrees timed and go to bed.  I use heat above the smoke point of the oil used, heat for an hour or so, turn the oven off, and let it cool without opening.  Two reasons to let it cool.  500 degrees is hot enough to burn skin, and there is some danger of a sudden difference in temperature cracking the pot.  
Why would you not use a wooden cutting board for meat?  Wood has been used by meat cutters for hundreds of years, and there are near zero problems associated with the practice.  Wood is definitely easier on knives. 
I season a few old CI pans each year, and would disagree with some of the statements.  For one, low temperature is not the way to go.  You want the oil or fat to polymerize, which requires temperatures above the smoke point of the oil.  I put a very thin coat of oil on the pan, put it in the oven cold, heat to 500 degrees for an hour and let the oven cool on its own.  Repeat as as often as necessary.    There are several ways to remove old residue.  IMO blasting is...
That may or not be true.  Linseed oil is flax seed oil that has various additives.  Flax seed oil is food safe, but aside from being expensive, is not particularly stable and goes rancid.   Tung oil supposedly mildly toxic, but I think that is only in large quantities.  However, tung oil is not as available as tung oil varnish, which contains other chemicals.  I would not worry about pure tung oil as a board finish.  
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