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Posts by jimbo68

I think that Wiki's time line on the changes is incorrect.  I tagged beef for a few years starting in 1965 and at that time there were Prime, Choice, and Good.  The grade was based on quality and yield.  I think it was around 1975 that good disappeared and select came into being.   The standards were changed, and the yield factor was eliminated,   I'm not 100% sure but I know good was around as long as I worked a packing house.
One other thing about wood boards.  They can be resurfaced if the face gets too beat up.  You can do it yourself with a sander or scraper, or get a cabinet shop with a thickness sander to do it for you. 
Sorry, I did not go back to another thread in 2006. 
The only reference to 500 degrees I saw above was mine, and I did not say to set the oven to 500 degrees timed and go to bed.  I use heat above the smoke point of the oil used, heat for an hour or so, turn the oven off, and let it cool without opening.  Two reasons to let it cool.  500 degrees is hot enough to burn skin, and there is some danger of a sudden difference in temperature cracking the pot.  
Why would you not use a wooden cutting board for meat?  Wood has been used by meat cutters for hundreds of years, and there are near zero problems associated with the practice.  Wood is definitely easier on knives. 
I season a few old CI pans each year, and would disagree with some of the statements.  For one, low temperature is not the way to go.  You want the oil or fat to polymerize, which requires temperatures above the smoke point of the oil.  I put a very thin coat of oil on the pan, put it in the oven cold, heat to 500 degrees for an hour and let the oven cool on its own.  Repeat as as often as necessary.    There are several ways to remove old residue.  IMO blasting is...
That may or not be true.  Linseed oil is flax seed oil that has various additives.  Flax seed oil is food safe, but aside from being expensive, is not particularly stable and goes rancid.   Tung oil supposedly mildly toxic, but I think that is only in large quantities.  However, tung oil is not as available as tung oil varnish, which contains other chemicals.  I would not worry about pure tung oil as a board finish.  
Food safe bowl finish is available most anywhere wood turners and carvers supplies sold.  It is not particularly cheap, nor any better than the home brews.  For a home use board, I think it is overkill.  In a commercial setting, you may want the certification for marketing and liability purposes.
I use cast iron cookware often, and I have never had a problem with it rusting once it is properly seasoned.  Mine gets stacked one on top or the other without the benefit of something separating the pieces.   I've not seen any degradation due to one skillet scraping against another.   The best care for cast iron is use.  Mine generally just gets wiped down with paper towels unless something has stuck, in which case it gets scraped off with my all purpose scraper, a...
What works for me is reducing the stock to the point that a couple of gallons will fit into two ice cube or muffin tins, then store in freezer bags.   
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