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Posts by DenverVeggieNut

I've got the same three-stone set as you have at work and really like it. I follow the stones up (and do touch-ups) with CBN on balsa.   As upgrades from the set, you might consider Gesshin stones. You could get the Gesshin 400 + 2000 + 4000 ($245), or Gesshin 400 + 2000 + 6000 ($305). I hear they're quite nice, but the Beston/Bester/Rika set is really well-chosen. I feel no need to upgrade, and don't know if I'd necessarily spring for the Gesshins over that set if for...
I had 'em switched- thanks for the correction! I'll bet the FKH takes a nice edge.
Here's some food for thought: Fujiwara FKH, $83, stainless, yo handle: http://www.japanesechefsknife.com/FKHSeries.html I have one of these in a 150mm petty. Nice enough for the money, and much nicer than the usual German knives, but not quite as nice as the ones below, as you'd expect given the price.   Carbonext, $128 in 240mm, $100 in 210mm, semi-stainless steel, yo handle: http://japanesechefsknife.com/KAGAYAKICarboNextSeries.html No personal experience, but I...
Jack- I don't have any experience with any of those three knives, but I would like to volunteer that the type of procedure by which a knife is made should be pretty far down on the list of characteristics you use to choose between knives. Even steel type isn't critical. More important are profile (flat spot or not, rounded edge, pointy at the tip or less so, blade height at heel, etc.), and grind (thin behind the edge? good food release?). Also- you mention edge retention....
There are tons of good knives in your price range. I would suggest you give Jon at Japanese Knife Imports a call (after he gets back from Japan on November 12). He's got a great selection and can steer you to something that will fit your needs. http://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/
If you're on a budget, your best bet may be to modify your current thin carbon clever. Just take it out onto the sidewalk and start wailing away at the fore and aft parts of the blade until you've rounded the shape the way you like it, then take it to a course sharpening stone to thin and shape the edge back right. The length you're pretty much stuck with... but how long is it? In what ways do you find it too long?
Blue steel does have a hair more corrosion resistance than white steel, but in either case, it is generally the cladding that is what is most reactive, not the core steel, and the cladding can be all over the map as far as reactivity. I've got a mono steel white #2 knife with a solid patina, and find it to be very UN-reactive, whereas I have a blue #2 knife that has a very reactive cladding, and I used to have a Tojiro ITK knife that was white #2 and the cladding on that...
The Suien VC cleaver is a little longer than you may want, but full height and has a good bit of belly: http://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/suien-vc-chinese-cleaver.html Great steel, stays sharp a long time.   
 Wouldn't it be easier just to learn how to sharpen knives? Sharper knives whenever you want (and sharper than they come when new), and you don't have to throw away 140 knives over a ten-year period. 
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