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Posts by Diamond G Knive

All good information, Thank you!   This is still a start up as Im just rebuildng my shop (had gravel dumped for the pad yesterday,) Then move my containers, then trusses and roof, then power. THEN I can start setting up shop. I have been aquireing some nice vintage chefs though, and have been working on my website (not as easy as I thought it would be!)   My goal is to produce my line of custom knives, then possibly a MidTech down the road. The revampong of the...
Thanks BDL, in your opinion what is the optimum RV for 52100. I would think with cryo it should not be to difficult to achive 60RC and still have a non chippy edge. Sharpening on the other hand my be a bit tougher, but no more of a challange than some of the Japanese blades.   Thanks and God Bless Mike
Thank you for your input Franz.   Another question I would like to pose.   As an example, I have just purchased an Older Sabitier (mid 1930's I belive) It has wooden scales that have cracked and will be replaced. There is a nice patina on the blade, but a few rust spots.   On the handle, would plain Rosewoods scales be in order if you were buying, would you prefer a upgrade to somthing like Ironwood or stabilzed burl? Is the look worth the cost (+ $30...
Was looking into this maker who seems to have a fair price on 52100 blades. Also offers various stailess steels also.   Just curious if anyone had tried them??   Thanks and God Bless Mike
Hello Not sure this will intrest most of you as you own higher end knives, but I want to pose a question for your input and opinion.   I am currently building a website for my knifemaking and sharpening business, and have been looking at several Older knives on ebay that are in fine shape but the handles need replaced.   Would a name brand knife, pick one, mostly of the Eouro line that has it's handle replaced with a nice wood or synthetic handle be of intrest...
Thanks Foodpump. I appreciate the input. After doing some research and pricing Maple, I can see why the price is so high on them!   God Bless, Mike
This may not be a viable way to get better knives for a reasonable price, but for a while I use to buy older chefs knives on ebay, then recondition them and resell to the customers of my sharpening business.   For me I looked for damadged handles with good blades that were not the first pick for a "User" then rehandle clean up and sharpen.   There were some good deals to be found, just may take some time.   God Bless Mike
From a $35 Kitchen Aide to a $3500 Kramer and up.   To me it is 1.) A tool that must perform its task well. 2.) It should maintain a good edge 3.) It should last for a decent amount of time with proper care.   Past these points I belive it's been covered that everything else is subjective to the owner/buyer.   I am a custom knife maker. I have made User Grade, and Presentation Grade Chefs knives. They all had the first part, they had to cut and cut well as a...
I saw Oak mentioned, But I see much more maple or walnut in the endblock cutting boards. Is this traditional, or due to the fact that they hold up better? Im thinking of making some boards up, and have access to a huge amount of red and white oak lumber, just dont want ot start using it if there ia a reason not to!.   Also on board size and thickness. Ive seen then from 2" thick to 4" thick, and sizes vary greatly. What are the best sizes to consider...
Thanks for the input guys! Im still looking at diffrent steels and providers while Im working out some shop wiring issues.   I have been discussing 13C26 with a supplier of mine,it is also a Swedish stainless that is a Very close runner to AEB-L, but takes a higher finish and is much more "sharpanable" at @ 60 RC. (havnt tried this yet so i can speek for it!)   On another steel note, Is Damascus more of a "Bling" thing for a Chef? I've done a fair share of it...
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