Ideas For Curing Salmon

[Suzanne]

Marmalady -- from what I've seen, it's the farmed stuff that's riskier. Kind of the same way that if 1 kid in daycare comes in sick, every kid gets sick.

I was thinking more based on not using freshwater fish for sushi. Yeah, I know about those disgusting worms in swordfish, but there are invisible guys in freshwater fish.

[marmalady]

Maybe I'm wrong - I thought I had seen something or read something where they said the parasites were less of a problem in farm raised fish, because they can control them with medicines better.

Anecdotal story time - I was making sushi to impress my martial arts instructor once, and had gotten a beautiful piece of fresh wild salmon at the fishmongers. Using my tweezers, I was carefully removing all the pin bones, when I noticed that some of the bones were REALLY pliable, and seemed to be moving!!! Yup, disgusting little wormies!!!!!

[brian@nf]

hi there again

using trout is find as long as its from a good source, where i work we use trout more then salmon will also use farmed trout so we know they are from a good source but i have seen people use wild trout.

citrus marinated trout confit

1 lemon zested
1 lime zested
1 orange zested
1/2 c sea salt

copped:
fresh thyme
fresh rosemary
fresh dill
star anise
correnader

Mix all the ingds. together and cut the trout in the portion sizes about 3 to 4 onces ant press the mix on to each piece. let set for one hour and rub off the mixture from the trout. heat up the olive oil to 200 F and slowly poach the trout in the oil for a few mins.

the recipe for the gravlox i left at work but i well post it soon.

brian

[Suzanne]

At the 2 places where I've worked that had sushi bars, the (real Japanese) sushi chefs would coat the salmon with coarse salt and freeze it before using it raw. They both said this was standard practice in Japan, to kill any little guys that might be wiggling around. I guess technically then it's not "fresh," but it is safe.

On the farmed vs. wild question: I'm more concerned that they HAVE to give the fish drugs because they are penned and end up swimming through their own feces. It's the same idea as the indiscriminate use of antibiotics for other food animals. The growers create the need for the meds. I know this is a very emotional issue to many people, so I won't go any further.

Brian -- Thanks for the trout recipe. Looks yummy and very do-able. I see it is briefly cooked, so that makes me less wary.

[marmalady]

I know what you mean, Suzanne - we either have to deal with the buggies or the drugs!!

[Suzanne]

Taking ideas from everyone, I did some trout this past weekend to bring to a brunch on Sunday:

Suzanne's version of Brian's Trout Confit

For 2 skin-in fillets, about 9-10 inches long (I forgot to weigh them first):

1 tsp. grated lime zest (1/2 of a lime)
1 1/2 tsps. grated lemon zest (1/2 of a lemon)
2 tsps. finely minced shallot (1 small shallot)
2 tsps. finely minced jalapeno (1/2 of a large one; kind of mild)
2 T. Turbinado sugar
2 T. kosher salt
about 25 grinds of freshly-ground black pepper

Combine and spread on flesh side of fillets. Place fillets on a plate, one on top of the other, flesh sides together. Cover well with plastic; weight with another plate. Refrigerate for about 36 hours.

Uncover. Drain off liquid. Place top fillet on plate, skin-side down. Sprinkle both fillets with vodka, about 1 T. in all. Cover again with plastic, weight, and refrigerate again for about 4 hours.

Uncover. Drain off liquid. Scrape curing mix off flesh. Refrigerate uncovered for about 24 hours.

Pour olive oil to a depth of about 1/2" in an 11" frying pan (I used an All-Clad "saute" pan with straight sides). Over a low flame, slowly bring oil up to 180 to 200 degrees F.

Slice fish at about 1/2" intervals on the bias, sliding knife along inside of skin (as if slicing salmon).

When oil is barely rippling, place fillets (on skin) in pan. Spoon some oil over fillets, cover, and poach for about 10 to 15 minutes (until fish at the center loses raw look). Carefully remove fillets and lay flat to drain on a rack.

------------------------------------

Served it without sauce or other accompaniment, to be able to concentrate just on the fish. (There were bagels available.) It was a big hit. People liked the citrus flavors, while the trout flavor still came through. The oil returned just enough moisture. BUT: next time, I don't think I'll leave the cure on quite so long. I'll use something else with more flavor than plain vodka. And that amount of cure would probably have been enough for twice as much fish. The salty-sweet was a little too strong for my (and my husband's) taste.

But this is still a work in progress. Thanks for giving me the courage to try it!!

[Dear Abby]

My dearest Suzanne,

Your trout treatment sounds delightful! Dear Abby is now quite regretful that she was unable to bring her gamekeeper Lawrence with her during her stay in Wyoming and Montana. He could have plied his expert trout-fishing talents and provided the basis for Chef Henri's curative efforts. But it would have been so difficult to procure even one more ticket for Dear Jane's event! And of course, then there would again have been the worry of Lawrence and Jane!

Be that as it may, Chef Henri had an inspired suggestion for a sauce you might offer with your next attempt. Although he is not often a practitioner of frugality, he suggests that you make a Mayonnaise with the poaching oil, after it has cooled. How delightfully simple, no? Here is how he makes the classic sauce in a version that would complement your trout:

1 egg yolk
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
the juice of 1/2 a lemon (perhaps the same one you denuded of its zest)
8 to 9 ounces of the poaching oil, with juices
Tabasco-brand or other green Jalapeno sauce, to taste
Salt
Freshly ground White pepper

He places the egg yolk in the bowl of the Kitchen-Aid mixer, and allows it to come to room temperature. He beats the yolk with the whisk attachment for several minutes, to incorporate a great deal of air into it. (This also gives him a chance to pop down to the wine cellar to check the stock.)

He then adds the mustard and a bit of the lemon juice, and continues beating. Then, very slowly, he pours the oil in, down the side of the bowl. Every so often he stops the machine and scrapes down the sides; he warns that although it may look as though the mayonnaise on the bowl sides has broken, it has not. Perservere with the slow addition of oil! When most of the oil has been incorporated, he starts to add the Jalapeno sauce,
several splashes at a time. All the while beating, beating. Only after all the oil has been added does he taste, add salt and pepper, mix, taste, correct the seasoning and the amounts of lemon and jalapeno. Then, Voila! A lovely pale green sauce that echoes the flavors of the trout.

Chef Henri wishes to state that in his salad days he would have beaten the mixture by hand. Now, however, he is willing to allow the use of a machine. Only a mixer; he blanches at the thought of a blender or food processor.

Well, my sweet, Dear Abby hopes that you will try Henri's sauce. It was simple accompaniments like these that dear George found perhaps too irresistable. Ah, ... Dear Abby must go and lie down now.

A bientot.


Abby

[Suzanne]

Merci beaucoup, Chere Abby! Please tell Chef Henri that I will definitely try his suggestion. And that I agree with him about the mixing method -- although I can't imagine that he would care that little old insignificant moi acknowledges his brilliance. After all, as long as Dear Abby does (she of the exquisit taste in all things), who else matters?

[Dear Abby]

Herr Wusthof,

Dear Abby is flattered that you should think she is related to Mlle.
Quenelle. She has heard some rather nice things about this Quenelle.

She is afraid, however, that you are mistaken. Dear Abby is very simply Dear Abby! She greatly regrets that you seem so confused about this. She thinks that perhaps you should hone your detective skills a bit more.

Merci, mon ami, Cape Chef, for defending Dear Abby's honor.

Auf wiedersehen.

Abby

[cape chef]

Dear Wusthof,

Let's stay on topic please!
Perhapes you have a nice recipe for curing salmon you would like to share with the community
Thank you
CC

[Nicko]

Several posts in this thread were deleted as they had nothing to do with the topic of curing salmon. If there are any questions regarding these decisions please send me a pm.

[Athenaeus]

Do you think that it's a good idea to cure salmon during summer time?

[Jock]

Sure, why not? It's all done in the refrigerator anyway and once the fish is cured it will keep the same in any season.
I believe most of the salmon we buy at the market is farm raised and the foregoing discussions on food safety notwithstanding, I don't know if the quality of the fish varies from season to season. For example, would the fat content of a farm raised salmon be different in the summer vs. the winter and would that difference (if any) have an impact on the end product or the curing process?
But I love gravlax any time of year

Jock

[Suzanne]

Jock, you're right that the fat content will be different (lower in summer) -- although possibly not as much lower in farm-raised fish as in wild-caught. Lower fat might make for a slightly less unctuous product, but maybe it will keep a little better? I'm going to follow the suggestion of using just a section and try it. After all, what could be better in the summer than a gravlax and cucumber sandwich?

[marmalady]

Unctuous - ooooh, I love that word! I've done 'the cure' summer and fall and winter, and haven't really noticed any difference in keeping qualities; the higher fat content does make for a better mouth feel, though, that velvety texture.