Paul: Please don't tell me that you give lots of hands-on training. But DO tell me that you train, mentor, and give your hires a range of experience that allows them to move up in the kitchen. That's what it should all be about.
As for me, in New York City: My first job as a pantry cook after I finished culinary school in 1996 paid $7.50 an hour, extra for more than 40 hours and you can be sure I had to fight to get that extra. Next, as a catering manager, I was on salary at $28,000/year, which worked out to $13.46/hour for 40 hours (which I rarely worked; usually more, of course). Back to a restaurant: started at garde manger at $475/week (always more than 40 hours), ended as grillman at $525; then I got the title of Pastry Chef, making $600/week (whereas my predecessor had made $750, but he had much more experience and training in pastry than I; but still . . . ). Next couple of restaurants paid $575/week for line cook/tournant. To work on opening a resto with a chef I very much admired, I took a cut and received $100 per shift, which was more than anyone else received (except for the sous chefs). Took another cut to work with another very good chef, to $480/week. As Kitchen Manager for a manufacturer, supervising a staff of 2 to 5, I started at $32,500/yr (would have equalled $15.62 if I'd only worked 40 hours instead of the close-to 80 since I also had to do R&D) and ended at $35,000 (a theoretical 16.82). In my last line jobs in late 2001 and early 2002, I was back to the equivalent of $13.00/hour. NO BENEFITS IN ANY OF THESE JOBS, EVER. NO OVERTIME (except the very first). And at one job, the owner stiffed the entire staff -- including the chef and sous -- out of several weeks' pay. Such is life on the line.
Now I use all that training and experience (plus everything else I've learned in every other job) doing editorial work on cookbooks and other writing, for $20 to $28/hour, and I get paid for every hour I work in the comfort of my office or at the publisher's office. Do I miss working the line? Every day, and never.
__________________ Co-Moderator, Cooking Questions "Notorious stickler" -- The New York Times, January 4, 2004 |