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02-20-2006, 05:26 PM
|  | Registered User Culinary Experience: Professional Chef | | Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Mn. From Wisconsin
Posts: 348
| | The french think, The italians do, And the Americans are.
I don't beleive in complications..................................... ....
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One time a guy pulled a knife on me. I could tell it wasn't a professional job; it had butter on it.- Rodney Dangerfield -
'We're ALL amateurs; It's just that some of us are more professional about it than others'. - George Carlin | 
02-21-2006, 11:24 AM
|  | Registered User Culinary Experience: Restaurant Manager | | Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: On Hiatus
Posts: 811
| | I hope Batali and company the best of luck and I hope they make it.
__________________ What a relief! To find out after all these years that I'm not crazy. I'm just culinarily divergent... | 
02-21-2006, 11:55 AM
|  | ChefTalk Book Reviewer Culinary Experience: Professional Chef | | Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Rochester, NY, USA
Posts: 2,348
| | Well to start I would have to agree on Marks question that it seems at least historically if you are not French, no 4th star for you irregardless of Madame Catherine.
Seeing also the menu that Brad was so gracious to find, as well as all the posts have caused me to temper my original comments. I will admit that my thinking is partially biased by Mario being a "made for Food TV" type star. If it wasn't for FTV would Mario be "Mario"? It's become to me the "Rocco syndrome". I will say this about Mario and that is I have always been impressed with the depth of his knowledge and passion for Italian food and cooking. He may well have done more for breaking the stereotypes of Italian cooking than most others. As least with the exposure he has.
The menu while ridiculous in some parts (but then I have seen that as well in lesser restaurants) is also very adventurous and unique. So in that respect is he any different than say Morimoto?
So I still think the concept of $12 mil. dollar restaurants is insane, but I will give Mario a break and wish him the best, though you will only see me in there after I win the lottery! | 
02-21-2006, 03:30 PM
| | Registered User Culinary Experience: Professional Chef | | Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 578
| | IMHO...food is food....and there's a limit to what you can do to it. I would be willing to bet good money that if I made the EXACT same item NObody would give the DESCRIPTION of it a sniff for that price.
So is it food or is it image? (Memorex?)
We are only limited by ingredients and imagination. You can mix and match any way you like (trout ice cream...? uuuuhhhhgh). Call it what you like, it's STILL just a combination of ingredients and while it seems limitless there IS a limit to the combinations you can present. Meat cooks in a specific way, sauces, rubs, marinades, ... the only edge...reputation and celebrity status.
Do people like Batalli depend on reputation? Of friggin COURSE they do. There is no way I'd invest in a 12M restaurant in Manhattan even if I had it. The numbers just don't add up.
Are there people that will spend that amount of money? Absolutely. Just look at the housing costs in NY...but not for the food, for the reputation. Look at me, I'm spending enormous amounts of money on something that I can get just as good someplace else for 1/8th as much, JUST BECAUSE I HAVE THE MONEY.
It seems way too pretentious an endeavor to me rather than presenting great food.
I suppose we'll all see what happens after the 'NEW' wears off?
Don't get me wrong. I wish Batalli and his partner well in this venture. I wish I could do the same thing and pull it off. I'm just looking at the overall picture and have this great big question mark over my head. Why?
In my humble opinion...
April | 
02-21-2006, 05:25 PM
|  | ChefTalk Book Reviewer Culinary Experience: Professional Chef | | Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Rochester, NY, USA
Posts: 2,348
| | April what you said reminds me of another reason that I do appreciate Mario in the same way that I do Rick Bayless. With Rick you get dishes that represent in many ways the heart of deep Mexican Cooking. With Mario in many ways you get the heart of deep Italian cooking. With Rick you'll get recipes from parts of Mexico you never knew existed. A far cry from Tacos and Burritos. With Mario you get foods from parts of Italy you never knew existed. A far cry from Spaghetti and meatballs. Not that there's anything wrong with those items, but there is so much more that most of us have never heard of and people like Mario and Rick help bring it to us. The main difference is that Rick brings it to more of us  not quite so $$$$$ | 
02-21-2006, 05:41 PM
|  | Registered User Culinary Experience: Line Cook | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: The Carolinas
Posts: 1,189
| | Does anyone have any cookbooks by either Rick or Mario? I was just wondering.I have gotten more into French cusine doing a lot of reading on that right now.But I do agree with CH in that last statement makes sense. | 
02-21-2006, 06:03 PM
|  | ChefTalk Moderator Culinary Experience: Culinary Instructor | | Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: CT.
Posts: 5,090
| | This is a study of opinions that I find very interesting. I very rarely post here, but I thought this would be an excellent topic for some of my students. I subscribe to the school of French technique when I think about 4* restaurants and what that represents. As much as I love Italian cuisine (very diverse I know), I don't see it in a 4* realm. (me)
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Stainless steel is a symbol of the de humanization of the profession of cook and chef. It promotes stereotyped behavior and lack of personality. I kept my work surroundings human for both my cooperators and myself, because to be a good cook, one always needs to tap the inner, emotional layers of one's personality. Madeliene Kamman
QUOTE(Brad @ Feb 20 2006, 05:30 PM)
Why is that? (Steve)
QUOTE(Steve Plotnicki @ Feb 20 2006, 05:34 PM)
QUOTE(Brad @ Feb 20 2006, 05:30 PM)
As much as I love Italian cuisine (very diverse I know), I don't see it in a 4* realm.
Why is that?
There is a very, very small % of cooking & cuisines that can be elevated to 4* (US) status. Much that has been discussed in this thread made poignant points towards that end. The simple understanding of pan developed sauced verses stock based preparations is just one point I found interesting. Italian cooking seems less contrived in it's stripped down approach, but French cuisine coddles technique in a regard that is not found in Italian cooking. As a chef, when I cook at home for my family I think of Italy,Greece and Asian dishes which are easy to prepare and comforting. When I entertain and want to blow the doors off my guests, I always practice my experience in french technique.
I relax with Italian cuisine, like a good book in front of a fire, I stand erect and pay attention to detail when cooking french. (me)
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Stainless steel is a symbol of the de humanization of the profession of cook and chef. It promotes stereotyped behavior and lack of personality. I kept my work surroundings human for both my cooperators and myself, because to be a good cook, one always needs to tap the inner, emotional layers of one's personality. Madeliene Kamman
Steve Plotnicki
Great answer. But I was actually hoping that you could add to the point about pan sauces. This discussion comes up so often that it would be good to create a definitive list of techniques that make the difference in the cuisines. (Steve)
I want to preface this by saying I do love and enjoy much of the worlds cuisines, and practice it often. Why allow yourself to be bored, with that said.
If you are a good cook you should be able to roast a rack of veal, produce a delicious pan sauce and add exotic mushrooms. You should be able to make a beautiful risotto or make a quality pasta. As a good cook you should be able to work with and understand the produce that is indigenous to your area.
A truffle can be shaved over a warm risotto, or for that matter, scrambled eggs or a baked potato with wonderful results, why, because as a good cook you understand a truffle (in season and ripe) is about aroma.But that is easy.
I went through a stage when I had a big problem with over worked food, deconstruction of dishes or re-inventing cuisine. I then realized that it was less of me feeling confused by the efforts, and more that the approach was not really thought through to a point in which it made culinary sense.
To Steve's question of pan jus apposed to stock based sauces,to make a beautiful stock one must have the best ingredients and time to create the foundation of french cooking. Jus Lie's,glace de viande etc are building blocks.Michel Bras vegetable dish probably would not be found anywhere else in the world.All those veggies, perfectly treated and cooked. It is a sympathy of technique.
Think about puff pastry, souffles, consomme. Although not difficult to make, they are complicated in there theory.(Me)
Just some thoughts.
__________________ Baruch ben Rueven / Chana
"If the sun refused to shine, I will still be lovin you. Mountains crumble to the sea, it will still be you and me" | 
02-21-2006, 06:41 PM
|  | Registered User Culinary Experience: Line Cook | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: The Carolinas
Posts: 1,189
| | capechef thats the reason I think I am beginning to embrace French cooking so much. I truly believe in good technique sort of a pet peave I have I guess you could call it. All cusines are rooted deep in history and tradition some more than others. I guess thats the reason I admire the chefs of Japan so much its their deep rooted traditions and techniques that make Japanese cusine such as art in itself. I guess in Italian cusine theres more free rein so to speak I do not know that much about the Italian side as far as history and tradition go but I do like Italian food who doesn't! | 
02-22-2006, 01:06 PM
| | Registered User Culinary Experience: Professional Chef | | Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 578
| | Cookbooks...Dianne Kennedy/Mexican food She is a SAINT when it comes to fantastic Mexican food! <and no not just tacotacotaco-burritoburrito!>
She's got two that I know of, but I think the first one is the best of the two.
Italian? Hmmm...I've got some older Good Housekeeping Italian Cooking books (don't really know the authors off of the top of my head, I'm still unpacking boxes from our move) but I made a variety of the dishes over the years (especially when I had an Italian BF in Australia) that were fantastic.
So ...what are (or should) guests be comfortable paying for the different bends on food? So as food for thought: One not famous, one famous, same exact dish.
Flay certainly does it with style and less expense, but maybe he'll come up with a 12m restaurant too. Hey, they've already done Mexican Pizza! Italian quesadilla? <would probably work now that I think about it.>
I'm just kind of thinking that there has to be a cap on it somewhere. Like purchasing an acre in Las vegas for 6m. Is there actually a profit margin tucked in there in the future? Hmmmmm....(rubbing chin reflectively)
April
I just love talking about food! <almost as much as making it!> | 
02-22-2006, 01:25 PM
|  | Registered User Culinary Experience: Professional Chef | | Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Mn. From Wisconsin
Posts: 348
| | I beleive that there are sooo many better cooks/chefs out in the industry that are better than the mediaized ones, It is all politics and who you know , Not who you are,
I personally hate politics and food combined.
__________________ http://www.frappr.com/chefsunited
One time a guy pulled a knife on me. I could tell it wasn't a professional job; it had butter on it.- Rodney Dangerfield -
'We're ALL amateurs; It's just that some of us are more professional about it than others'. - George Carlin | 
02-22-2006, 05:47 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2003 Location: NJ
Posts: 577
| | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Ma Facon I beleive that there are sooo many better cooks/chefs out in the industry that are better than the mediaized ones, It is all politics and who you know , Not who you are | I think you are quite right Ma Facon.
Mark
__________________ Salad is the kind of food that real food eats. | 
02-22-2006, 06:45 PM
|  | Registered User Culinary Experience: Owner/Operator | | Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,104
| | There are better basketball players then most in the NBA, playing $25. games in the city.
I'm not sticking up for Italian cuisine but I'm getting the feeling that we are generalizing the cuisine. It is very regional. As a child we had two types of Italian Restaurants. The American, plates piled high, garlic bread,dried pastas, etc. Then the Italian place, um, nouvelle is the best word I can think of now, smaller portions, reductions,broths, and room for an exquisite dessert.
French is regional but quite standard with regional variations. The Italians will actually vary the standards. The Italians and the Swiss dining reflects and excursion. French is more of an experience. I know, makes no sence.
I have had enough meals in Paris to think that the 4 star places are frequented by visitors. The American rated places seem to cater to us here in the US. I might be wrong. One of the most popular dining places in Paris is a Chinese restaurant. | 
02-25-2006, 07:42 PM
| | Registered User Culinary Experience: Professional Chef | | Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 578
| | OK, look at the reviews from the people who have eaten there... It seems like the proverbial "Love it/Hate it". I'd say the "hate it"'s have more of a valid argument.
April | 
02-25-2006, 08:12 PM
|  | Registered User Culinary Experience: Owner/Operator | | Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,104
| | Oh, I could never hate any type of food. I actually only use the word hate for government, politics,and taxes. |  | |
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