Wrongheaded Assault on Slow Food

[Devotay]

The March, 2008 issue of Metropolis focuses on the overarching idea of localism and its relationship to sustainability. It is, as always, a beautiful and well-written issue, but in it one particular columnist, Bruce Sterling, has taken Slow Food to task accusing us once again of that old canard, elitism.

Now while it is true that the movement is often accused of such things, it is not an accurate accusation, nor is it always such a bad thing anyway. Bear in mind that most of the great social movements throughout history were begun by the so-called “elite,” (witness abolition and suffrage - not to mention that Ghandi was a well-to-do attorney). But the places Mr. Sterling gets it wrong are so manifold it’s hard to know where to start.

Let’s try here:

The Cornish Pilchard. The Chilean Blue Egg Hen. The Cypriot Tsamarella and Bosnian Sack Cheese. You haven’t seen these foods at McDon*ald’s because they are strictly local rarities championed by Slow Food, the social movement founded to combat the proliferation of fast food. McDonald’s is a multinational corporation: it retails identical food products on the scale of billions, repeatedly, predictably, worldwide. Slow Food, the self-appointed anti-McDonald’s, is a “revolution” whose aim is a “new culture of food and life.”

Actually you haven’t seen these foods at McDonald’s because McDonald’s sells hamburgers. Here Mr. Sterling has blundered by believing that who/what Slow Food is is somehow stagnant and monolithic. If such things were true then the US would still be a few puritan slave owners dotted up and down the east coast. Or the Chicago Cubs would have been the National League power for the last century. He goes on…More...

Slow Food began as a jolly clique of leftist academics, entertainers, wine snobs, and pop stars, all friends of Ital*ian journalist and radio personality Carlo Petrini.

I’ve often wondered what it is about food and wine that makes those who appreciate it automatically labeled “snobs.” Wine is just fermented grape juice actually one of the simplest foods known to man. Appreciating quality is not snobbery. Pretending to know something one doesn’t actually understand - that’s snobbery. For some reason someone who appreciates the inner workings of a fine internal combustion engine is not a snob, but someone who likes a well made buerre blanc is.

The group is the suave host for massive international food events in Torino. Other Slow Food emanations include a hotel, various nonprofit foundations, and—in a particularly significant development—a private college. The University of Gastronomic Sciences, founded in 2004, is the training ground for 200-plus international Slow Food myrmidons per year, who are taught to infiltrate farms, groceries, heritage tourism, restaurants, commercial consortia, hotel chains, catering companies, product promotion, journalism, and government. These areas are, of course, where Slow Food already lives.

My, we are sinister, aren’t we? We are “suave,” and we are “infiltrating” a host of consortia and other institutions (notably journalism, after all, here I am) with our “myrmidons.” (Curious? Yeah, I had to look it up too - despite my apparent position in my ivory tower as an intellectual elite - it means “a follower who carries out orders without question.” Evidently now we’re a cult)

I’m not sure why Mr. Sterling considers these ideas to be so threatening, but the fact is Slow Food couldn’t care less what the McDonalds and Monsantos of the world do, until they start to crap where we live. In the meantime, we promote these ideas because we believe them to be good ideas worthy of proliferation and preservation. Food defines who we are as individuals and as cultures. We are truly what we eat, and too many people are fast, cheap and easy. The right of ADM or Monsanto, Applebees or Burger King to swing its arms ends at the tip of the eater’s nose. Who owns your food owns you, and it is unwise to let that power rest in the hands of a very few wealthy corportations.

As the spiritual, political, and ideological wellspring of all things “eco-gastronomic,” Slow Food has woven a set of quiet understandings with the city of Torino, the region of Piedmont, the Italian Foreign Ministry, and the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization.

Sir, due respect and setting aside your constant condescension for a moment, but there’s been nothing “quiet” about it. Logos for those government bodies and organizations are emblazoned on, for example, ALL the literature regarding the Salone Del Gusto, (need proof? click that link) the largest food show of its kind, atracting 200,000 people each year. Oh, and yes, it’s in Italy. The organization was founded there, that’s why. Our last International Leaders’ Congress was held in Puebla, Mexico because preserving the foods and traditions of the so-called “developing” world is at the top of Slow Food’s mission list. We are not as exclusionary as you seem to think.

In regard to Slow Food’s Presidia project, he had this to say:

The cleverest innovation to date is the network’s presidium system. The Slow Food “presidia” make up a grassroots bottom-up version of the European “Domain of Control” system, which requires, for instance, that true “champagnes” must come from the province of Champagne, while lesser fizzy brews are labeled mere “sparkling wines.” These presidia have made Slow Food the planetary paladin of local production. Slow Food deploys its convivia to serve as talent scouts for food rarities (such as Polish Mead, the Istrian Giant Ox, and the Tehuacan Amaranth). Candidate discoveries are passed to Slow Food’s International Ark Commission, which decides whether the foodstuff is worthy of inclusion. Its criteria are strict: (a) Is the product nonglobalized or, better yet, inherently nonglobalizable? (b) Is it artisanally made (so there’s no possibility of any industrial economies of scale)? (c) Is it high-quality (the consumer “wow” factor)? (d) Is it sustainably produced? (Not only is this politically pleasing, but it swiftly eliminates competition from most multinationals.) (e) Is this product likely to disappear from the planet otherwise? (Biodiversity must be served!)

Sterling seems to think this is being done for our organization’s own aggrandizement, or perhaps even profit. Simply not so. it s being done because, as the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity do clearly states:

5% of European food product diversity has been lost since 1900

93% of American food product diversity has been lost in the same time period

33% of livestock varieties have disappeared or are near disappearing

30,000 vegetable varieties have become extinct in the last century, and one more is lost every six hours

The mission of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity is to organize and fund projects that defend our world’s heritage of agricultural biodiversity and gastronomic traditions.

We envision a new agricultural system that respects local cultural identities, the earth’s resources, sustainable animal husbandry, and the health of individual consumers.

And yes, Mr. Sterling, biodiversity MUST be served. Nature does not function without it and the industrialization and standardization of food and flavors is a direct threat to that diversity. For those who would like to know the true mission (and criteria) of the Foundation for Biodiversity and the Presidia Projects, please click here.

It is, among its many other roles, a potent promotion machine. Transforming local rarities into fodder for global gourmets is, of course, profitable. And although he’s no capitalist—the much honored Petrini is more justly described as a major cultural figure—he was among the first to realize that as an economic system globalization destroys certain valuable goods and services that rich people very much want to buy.

There he goes again, thinking that there is some profit motive behind what we do, like our 501(c)3 status and clear and concise billing as an educational organization is just some sort of front for gluttonous Nobles Oblige rather that an honest attempt to help preserve flavors, traditions, and ways of life. Does he really believe that mankind’s only choices are get on board with the agribusiness oligarchs or get run over by them? We think not. We think it’s a good idea to try to preserve great food. We think there should be more than one kind of hamburger in the world. More than one flavor of beer. We believe foundations and traditions are important because they make us who we are.

He concludes:

But while McDonald’s mechanically peddles burgers to the poor, Slow Food acculturates the planet’s wealthy to the gourmand quality of life long cherished by the European bon vivant. They have about as much in common as an aging shark and a networked swarm of piranhas.

Yes, McDonald’s does do that, as the overwhelming rates of obesity and diabetes among “the poor” (especially children) so clearly demonstrates. But far from reserving these “cherished” foods of the world for some elite class, Slow Food is working to proliferate them, and to return them to the artisans and yes, often peasants, from which they originated. we seek to make people aware of the connections between food and pleasure on the one hand, and awareness and responsibility on the other.

Mr. Sterling’s dismissal of Slow Food’s successful efforts as snobbery or elitism rings quite hollow on closer examination of what Slow Food is truly trying to do. I suggest, Mr. Sterling, that you read more, learn more, and perhaps visit Slow Food Nation this coming summer. There you may open your eyes to a food system we call “Good, clean, and fair.”

“He who distinguishes the true savor of his food,” Thoreau once wrote, “cannot be a glutton. He who does not, cannot be otherwise.”



Read Mr. Sterling’s entire article here

[phatch]

While not the same argument, it's about the same conclusion I came to when you and I discussed this a few years back. I see the crux of the issue this way.

While the principles of Slow Food are not themselves elitist, many of the people in the movement are. In most people's minds, its very easy to see the movement as a concept as the same thing as the people. For example, we see something similar right now in the news in regards to Obama and TUCC. TUCC's principles are one thing, and the people (Wright and Obama) are really another. But it's easy to see TUCC, Wright and Obama as all the same thing. They're not really, but they are related and influence each other.

While the movement and the people ARE different, it can be difficult for people to want to associate with the "evangelist" membership of new movements. However, movements require evangelists to grow and succeed.

A catch 22.

If slow food grows, at some point the moderates will overwhelm the evangelists and the movement will become more palatable to a broader spectrum of members.

Phil

[Anneke]

I espouse many of the principles of Slow Food. But the movement will not get a dime out of me. I’ve been periodically reading the Slow Food manifesto since 1990, and I continue to be struck by its tone and shortsightedness. To declare evil both speed and machinery and to suggest its eradication is so intensely disrespectful to our forefathers who have worked so hard to give us freedom and prosperity and all of their offshoots like better health (yes, we are healthier than 100 years ago) and choice. To talk about the defense of “quiet material pleasures” is by definition elitist: why can’t enjoying a Big Mac fall under this category? Who is SF to tell me I’m wrong about enjoying what I enjoy? I continue to question SF’s position on environmental policy which seems to ride on the topic du jour rather than acknowledging and using scientific data which may contradict them. SF claims to “guarantee a better future” in keeping with the umpteen unfounded claims in its manifesto. Guarantee you say?

I’ve attended a few SF meetings. Most groups I’ve seen (and I don’t mean to generalize) were composed of chefs hungry for ideas or trying to get behind the latest trends, and their wealthy patrons, bored and gluttonous. I have not been impressed with any revolutionary thinking as of yet.

I am happy that SF has garnered such momentum; don’t get me wrong, it was necessary. We have indeed become a society where the way we meet our primary needs is increasingly dictated by necessity than culture. But I happen to be extremely grateful for the world we live in, where choices abound and you have the freedom to ruin your health if you so choose. I support freedom and democratic food choices by giving people information, not by depriving and accusing them. Cheap food is a necessity that Slow Food has yet to satisfactorily address. Make slow food viable for everybody, not just some, and I might give it a second look. I find manifestos important. To deliberately make them inflammatory to achieve a positive impact is simply too reminiscent of the demands of a 10 year old…

Thank you Devotay for sharing this with us. I do not seek to offend with my post as I find your work invaluable and have the utmost respect for your opinions. I just get a little nervous at SF’s approach and this article was a good reminder of why that is…

My 2 cents.

[RSteve]

So, what's the point?

So many faeries dancing on the point of a needle.

Over 40 years ago, as a graduate student, I picked a spot to study next to an outreach worker for a Hassidic sect. My then curly red hair and freckles cued him in that I wasn't really a prospective candidate for whatever his task was, but for the lack of a candidate, he began a conversation with me. He was a very interesting chap, whom I thought appeared to be in his 40s, but, as it turned out was a year younger than me. When I asked him what separated his belief system from others, he answered with the word, "pillpool." I have no idea what language pillpool stems from; probably Hebrew or Yiddish. When I asked what it meant, he simply said, "We don't get caught up in discussing the minutiae of irrelevance."

Whenever I see a discussion of slowfood I am reminded of the word, pillpool.

[boar_d_laze]

You're either thinking of pilpul or sleaux phude. FWIW, pilpul is Hebrew and means "trenchant analysis" or near enough. It's the dialectic of Talmud study.

BDL

[Free Rider]

Originally Posted by boar_d_laze

You're either thinking of pilpul or sleaux phude. FWIW, pilpul is Hebrew and means "trenchant analysis" or near enough. It's the dialectic of Talmud study.

BDL

Even has a wiki entry: Pilpul - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Devotay]

Phatch -

You're right that it's the same issue. And I understand that since some ballplayers used steroids people assume all ballplayers do. We discussed back then that yes of course there are snobs that are members. And yes, Slow Food often throws big, elaborate dinners. We also have barbecues and do taste education workshops with jam or honey in elementary schools. We do a huge variety of activities, from the very small and local to the very large and global, to connect food and pleasure with awareness and responsibility. And while we battle the misperception of snobbery, it is extremely unhelpful of folks like Mr. Sterling to go around perpetuating the idea. That's why I fight back so hard when I see it.

Slow Food will grow tremendously after Slow Food Nation this summer, so I hope you are correct about the implications of that.

Anneke -

I fear you are making one of the same mistakes Mr. Sterling has: confusing Slow Food's origins with it's mission. The manifesto is quaint, it's cute, and it's quite arcane. No longeer does it even come close to defining Slow Food's mission. Slow Food has long since realized that gastronomy and environmentalism are inextricably linked. The gastronome who is not also an environmentalist is an idiot. The environmentalist who is not also a gastronome is just sad.

There is pleasure to be had in food and that should be celebrated. The importance of gathering around the table with those we love is paramount. No one is "evil" because they enjoy Big Macs. But at te same time it is foolish to enjoy them without also being aware of the implications - the chain of events that cascade from pulling up to the drive thru and getting that #4 Value Meal. We need to be a little more aware of the hidden costs of cheap food. They are manifestly obvious in the impacts on our health care system and our environment, on immigration, on foreign policy, on war.

Steve -

The point is that organizations that are doing good an important work do not need inaccurate and sometimes insulting press from underinformed journalists. When it happens, it should be called out and shown to be false. That is what I believe I've done here.

[RSteve]

Originally Posted by boar_d_laze

You're either thinking of pilpul or sleaux phude. FWIW, pilpul is Hebrew and means "trenchant analysis" or near enough. It's the dialectic of Talmud study. BDL

"sleaux phude" You are clever!!

Hey, cut me some slack...I was spelling phonetically.

But, I do think pilpul or pillpool, the issue of "slow food" really isn't one that many of us get caught up in.

[Devotay]

Originally Posted by RSteve

"sleaux phude" You are clever!!

Hey, cut me some slack...I was spelling phonetically.

But, I do think pilpul or pillpool, the issue of "slow food" really isn't one that many of us get caught up in.

100,000+ dues-paying members worldwide. Countless more who are sympatico but don't bother to formally join. 200K at Salone every other year. 100K+ expected at Slow Food Nation.

Maybe you don't "get caught up in" protecting the great food and food traditions of the world, but "many of us" do. And it is a valuable and worthwhile effort that is being conducted not just by Slow Food, but by Chef's Collaborative, Edible Communities, the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch, LocalHarvest.org, Sustainable Table, The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, The Southern Foodways Alliance, The Ethicurean, Seed Savers Exchange, and many more. It has led to bestsellers such as Fast Food Nation, Omnivore's Dilemma, In Defense of food, and Animal, Vegetable Miracle.

If you're not into it, that's just fine. I ask only that you not misunderstand it the way Mr. Sterling has here.

[kuan]

Hey my mom used to be known as the egg lady in Coromandel, NZ. She had these wonderful spotted blue duck eggs. Or were they chicken? I don't remember, but people used to come from allover for just her eggs.

I don't know this Bruce Sterling guy, but seems he's yet to meet my mom. She's the least snobbish person I know.

[Devotay]

I didn't know about your NZ connections, Kuan. Check you PMs for a question.

Sounds as if your mom is exactly the type of folks Slow Food is working for. And at Slow Food Nation, we'll be rolling out a whole new membership structure that will make it far more accessible for everyone.

Then again, folks don't need to actually join to participate. Order a CSA or shop at your farmers' market and you're already helping. Tell the produce manager at your store that you want to see local produce in the store.

Or buy your eggs from Kuan's mom

[Mannlicher]

Devotay, to help me understand your passion here, what is your association, or involvement with Slow Food?
It is evident that you have taken umbrage with Mr. Stirling's article, but what explains your agitation?

[Devotay]

Originally Posted by Mannlicher

Devotay, to help me understand your passion here, what is your association, or involvement with Slow Food?
It is evident that you have taken umbrage with Mr. Stirling's article, but what explains your agitation?

9 years of hard volunteer work for an organization that is trying to improve the food system.

[Mannlicher]

Thanks for the clarification. It always helps my understanding of a person's position, if I know whether or not he has a dog in the fight.

[the_seraphim]

just chill... i mean, honestly... ive never heard of either of you before... either slow-food (maybe i have... but i can guess at what that is from a one liner) or the out-to-make-a-buck journalist who thinks that ousting something as a cult will get him international acclaim

anyone with any sense, like me and i assume (and hope) the rest of us here would read that post and see that your motives are altruistic.

however i do not, can not, and will not trust people i have never met, no matter how altruistic they may seem... nor will i judge people by societies rules...

for one, i can and often do credit adolf hitler with being a man who could have easily been one of the "greats" in world history... to drag a festering country as post WWI germany was out of that sorry state and reform is so efficiently took real guts... and (minus the racism and elitism and evilness) would do most countries now a world of good.

so i shall ignore the entire post... why? because i dont need to be informed of this argument... either sue for slander (or in this case libel if in print) or ignore it.

i believe that your motives are true and just... but i believe the outline of your group would be a very attractive proposition for the elitest snobs i have come to know so well as societies "upper class" i wish you well... i hope you succeed to rid the world of mcdonalds and subway and KFC (especially KFC but thats another story) but i wouldnt put much stock in your chances of being left alone to do it.....