BRIOCHE DE LA RIVIERA

[mudbug]

And I thought Nancy Silverton's croissants were something to aspire to...

DECEMBER 19, 2000

BAKING: BRIOCHE DE LA RIVIERA WITH NICOLAS

The sweet French bread called brioche is fashioned in many shapes, from small buns to large, round loafs to its classic form—a fluted base with a jaunty topknot. When pastry chef Nicolas Berger bakes brioche, he shapes it into tall, cylindrical forms that resemble panettone, a traditional Italian Christmas cake.

This particular brioche recipe is very challenging. Before you undertake this project, be aware that the entire process requires at least three days of work. Baking brioche de la Riviera is a precise science, and to ensure its success, you must work with exact measurements and provide the right conditions in which the dough can properly rise—a warm spot of 79°F.

BRIOCHE DE LA RIVIERA
Makes 6 three-and-a-half-inch and 4 four-and-a-half-inch loaves
We have provided the U.S. measurements parenthetically to make shopping for the ingredients easier, but for best results, we strongly recommend using the metric measurements while baking.

For the natural levain:
1 medium Granny Smith apple, with skin, cut into pieces (100 grams; 3.6 ounces)
140 grams (scant 3/4 cup) warm water (100° to 110°)
750 grams (1.7 pounds) high-gluten flour, plus more for kneading

For the sponge:
114 grams; 4 ounces (1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon) sugar
400 grams; 14.3 ounces (3 1/4 cups) high-gluten flour
114 grams; 4 ounces natural levain (recipe follows, steps 1 through 3)
170 grams; 6 ounces (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, cold
6 large egg yolks (100 grams), cold

For the dough:
250 grams; 9 ounces (18 tablespoons) unsalted butter
40 grams; 1.5 ounces (5 teaspoons) lavender honey
114 grams; 4 ounces (1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon) sugar
8 grams (1 teaspoon) salt
20 milliliters (4 teaspoons) pure vanilla extract
20 milliliters (4 teaspoons) pure lemon extract
20 milliliters (4 teaspoons) pure orange extract
140 grams; 5 ounces (1/2 cup plus 1 1/2 teaspoons) high-gluten flour
6 large egg yolks (100 grams), cold
220 grams; 8 ounces (1 1/2 cups) golden raisins
220 grams; 8 ounces (1 1/2 cups) candied orange peel, cut into 1/4-inch dice
Grapeseed oil, for counter

For the topping:
100 grams; 3.6 ounces (3/4 cup) whole almonds, plus more for decorating
15 grams; 1/2 ounce (4 teaspoons) all-purpose flour
200 grams; 7 ounces (1 3/4 cups) confectioners’ sugar
15 grams; 1/2 ounce (2 teaspoons) grapeseed oil
90 grams; 3 ounces (3 large) egg whites
Pearl sugar, for decorating

1. Make the levain: In a 4-cup glass measuring cup, combine apple and water. Use an immersion blender or food processor to puree. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the apple mixture with 300 grams (10 1/2 ounces) high-gluten flour. Beat on medium-low until a stiff dough forms, about 3 minutes.

2. Place dough into a large clean container. Cover tightly, and let rise in a very warm place for at least 24 and up to 48 hours. (The temperature should be 79°F; a good place would be near, but not on, a stove or heating source—do not rise in an oven.) The dough should rise until tripled in bulk and then it will, most likely, fall.

3. Remove 150 grams (5.4 ounces) of dough from the center of the risen dough, discard the remaining dough. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine dough with 150 grams (5.4 ounces) high-gluten flour and 75 grams (1/3 cup) warm water until a uniform dough is formed. Transfer to a work surface, and knead dough briefly. Shape dough into a ball, return to the mixer bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place until tripled in size, about 4 hours. Repeat this process twice. The levain is now ready to use. Be sure to always take the levain from the center of the dough as the natural yeasts are more concentrated there.

4. Make the sponge: In a glass measuring cup, combine sugar and 200 grams (scant 1 cup) water. Stir to dissolve sugar. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine high-gluten flour, sugar mixture, and prepared natural levain. Starting on low speed, beat until flour is incorporated. Increase speed to medium, and beat until dough is smooth, about 6 minutes start to finish.

5. Add cold butter a bit at a time, while beating on low speed for about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium, and beat until smooth, 6 to 8 minutes more. Scrape down bowl as necessary. If necessary, switch to paddle attachment briefly to help incorporate butter. Add egg yolks, and beat on low until incorporated. Increase speed to medium, and continue beating until dough is shiny, elastic, and comes away from sides of bowl (it will make a slapping sound when the speed is increased). Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm place for 12 hours. (The temperature should be 79°F; a good place would be near, but not on, a stove or heating source—do not rise in an oven.) The dough should triple in bulk.

6. Make the dough: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and honey until smooth, about 1 minute. Set aside. In a liquid measuring cup, combine 80 ml (scant 1/2 cup) water, sugar, salt, and vanilla, lemon, and orange extracts. Stir to combine. Sprinkle the high-gluten flour over the risen sponge. Beat on low until all the flour is incorporated, about 3 minutes.

7. With machine running on medium-low speed, gradually add the liquid mixture; if the dough begins to separate, stop adding the liquid, and briefly increase speed to medium high until dough just comes back together. Reduce speed, and continue adding liquid. It should take about 4 minutes to add all of the liquid. Increase speed to medium high, and beat until dough is smooth, shiny, and elastic, about 5 minutes more.

8. With machine running, on medium speed, add the creamed honey mixture all at once. Beat until incorporated, about 4 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add egg yolks, and beat on medium low until incorporated and dough is shiny and elastic, about 4 minutes. Add raisins and orange peel and beat until just incorporated, about 2 minutes more.

9. Lightly oil work surface. Turn dough out onto surface, and cut into six 190-gram (6.8-ounce) pieces and/or four 250-gram (9-ounce) pieces. Work each piece of dough into a ball. Place smaller pieces into 3 1/2-inch-baking papers and large pieces in 4 1/2-inch-baking papers. Place filled papers onto baking sheets. Place each baking sheet into a large plastic bag, and seal. Set aside in a warm place until tripled in volume, 6 to 8 hours. (The temperature should be 79°F; a good place would be near, but not on, a stove or heating source—do not rise in an oven.)

10. Heat oven to 375°. Make the topping: In the bowl of a food processor, combine almonds, flour, and confectioners’ sugar. Process until fine. Transfer to a medium bowl, and add grapeseed oil and egg whites. Stir to combine. The glaze should be thick and almost pastelike.

11. Gently spoon about 2 tablespoons glaze over the top of each risen brioche to cover. Sprinkle with whole almonds (about six per loaf). Sprinkle heavily with pearl sugar. Bake until golden brown and set, 25 to 30 minutes for the small, 30 to 35 minutes for the large.


SPECIAL THANKS

Nicolas Berger
Chief pastry chef
Alain Ducasse at the Essex House
155 West 58th Street
New York, NY 10019
212-265-7300
Fax: 212-265-9300
E-mail: ADNY@alain-ducasse.com

SOURCES
Sir Lancelot high-gluten flour
Small pearl sugar

The Baker’s Catalogue at King Arthur Flour
Norwich, Vermont
800-827-6836

From: http://www.marthastewart.com/televis...ScheduleType=1

[Isa]

CChiu

I see we watched the same show. I was more interested in the yeat making process then the brioches. Couldn't believe that levain, and can't wait to try it, one can always dream.... I only wished he would have give equivalence for other recipes.

[mudbug]

Sisi,

What other recipes?

We can always figure out equivalences (there are online calculators for that.)

[Isa]

Cchiu,

There was no other recipe on the show I was just wondering if this levain could be used in other recipes instead of baker's yeast. If so how would one go to figure out the equivalence.

Sorry for the confusion