In Spain, speaking very roughly there are three types of paellas:
Valenciana, Mariscos and
Mixta.
Valenciana is the one with snails plus a few other things. Not like there's only one way to skin the
Valenciana cat, but the ingredient lists tend be pretty stable.
Mixta, on the other hand, is kind of freeform. Most Americans think of a mixta with an unholy combintation of sausage, chicken, and shellfish as "Paella Valenciana." Fortunately, you seem more sophisticated.
Mariscos ("seafood") is what you're asking about. You get a little more play than you would with a Valenciana, but not as much as you might take with a mixta.
Paella is one set of a class of dishes called arroces. Predictably, paella is all about the rice. I hate to disagree with kujira-san, but arborio (I think that's what he meant by "arborial") is one of the worst possible choices. You're looking for a rice which is neither creamy nor sticky, but will cook tender, but stay distinct and dry. The best Spanish types are Calasparra (from Murcia) and bomba (around Valencia). They're both short-grained almost round rices, but they're not like most other short rices which tend to be creamy and/or sticky. If you can't get hold of Calasparra or bomba or feel they're too expensive (they are!) your best second choice is going to be an Indian or Persian style basmati. You don't want a rice that makes good risotto or pudding. Paella is on the absolute other end of the scale -- more like a biryani or pillau.
Cookbooks and newspaper recipes will often offer arborio as a substitute for the Spanish rices. I suspect this is a reflexive "imported is better," or "Europe first" thing -- because the rices have nothing in common other than shortish bodies.
I usually mix aged Indian with "fresh" American or Mexican basmati -- the same blend I use for
arroz con pollo and other New World arroces. To my mind, the length of the raw grain is less important than its surface starch and other texutre qualities. Bear in mind, that Spanish rices are unique in that they elongate as they cook -- rather than swelling though the center -- so even though they start rather short grain, they cook rather long grain. This is all very nuanced. You can make a good paella with Arborio or CalRose, just not as good.
You can't really make a good paella without a paella pan -- called a paellera. The rice must be spread in a very thin layer. If you're trying to recreate the Spanish experience in a frying pan, you're doomed to failure. Fortunately, excellent carbon steel paelleri\as are available in the United States for very little money. Not all good paella pans have little dimples, in fact most carbon steel pans don't. With further apologies to kujira-san the purpose of the dimples is to promote, even heat diffusion, and rigidity, and prevent warping. After all, having the rice stick and make
socarrat is one of the objects of the exercise!
As always, what goes into your Paella Mariscos depends on what you can get fresh.
OK. Enough fooling around, let's get cooking.
MARISCOS CON PESCADO en PAELLA
(Four to Sixish)
Ingredients (Paella):
6 cups fumet, recipe follows
Pinch saffron
1/2 cup onion, chopped fine
6 - 8 cloves garlic, chopped fine
1 cup grated tomatoes
6oz cod or halibut fillet, filleted monkfish tail, or other firm white fish, cubed
6 squid bodies, cleaned and cut into rings
2 cups rice
12 mussels
12 large shrimp
6 tbs extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
Bay leaf
tbs kosher or sea salt
2 cups rice
Ingredients (Fumet):
1 onion
1 stalk of celery
1 medium carrot
1 tomato
Bay leaf
extra virgin olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
5 cups water
1 bottles clam juice
6 black pepper corns
salt
Technique (Fumet):
Chop the vegetables, coarsely. Heat some olive oil in the bottom of a kettle, add all the vegetables but the tomatoes, and saute until the onion is transulcent. Add the tomato and cook briefly.
Deglaze with the white wine. Add the water. Strain the clam juice into the broth and add the peppercorns and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer and reduce to 6 cups (about 30 minutes). Taste and adjust for salt. Strain, pressing the vegetables with the back of a spoon to get their essence into the broth. Reserve the fumet, discard the vegetables and bay leaf.
Technique (Paella):
Measure 3-3/4 cups of fumet into a pot, place on the stove top, and bring to a simmer. Hold the other 2-1/4 cups in a microwaveable bowl or cup. Add the saffron to the simmering fumet and allow it to bloom during the rest of the preparation process.
Meanwhile, chop the onion. Reserve. Chop the garlic (should be about 1/4 cup). Reserve. Grate 3 or 4 Roma tomatoes on the coarsest side of a box grater, skin, seeds and all (discard whatever won't go through the grater easily). Should be enough tomatoes for a cup of mush.
Clean the squid, cut the bodies into rings and the tentacles into bite size pieces. Reserve. Cut the fish into bit size cubes, about 3/4" x 3/4" x3/4". Reserve. Clean the mussels. Reserve. You may leave the shrimp head and shell on, or peel and clean -- as you prefer. (Optional: If you're using lobster tails, split them.)
Heat the
paellera very briefly over a medium-high fire. Watch closely because
paelleras are thin and prone to warpage. As soon as the pan is hot, add a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil. Then add the onions. Stir until they become translucent, add the garlic. When the garlic becomes aromatic (before it browns!), about 1 minute, add the tomatoes.
Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture (called a
soforito), is mostly dry and reduced to about 1/2 cup total. Empty the pan. Reserve the sofrito, and wipe the pan clean.
Return the pan to the fire, heat it, and add enough oil to saute. Sear the squid and the fish, about 1 minute. Add the reserved sofrito and heat it unitl it begins to boil, and stick to the bottom of the paellera, about 2 minutes. Add the white wine and deglaze. Cook long enough to take the raw off the wine, about 1 minute. Stir to make sure all of the fond is off the bottom of the pan, and combined with the sofrito.
Add all of the simmering fumet (with the saffron), the salt and the bay leaf, and bring to a boil.
When the fumet is boiling, add the rice. Spread it evenly around the pan.
The rice should be completely submerged. If it isn't, enough of the remaining fumet to cover it (smart, huh?). Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
Throughout the cooking period, you'll have to move the pan around to make sure all parts of the bottom receive an even amount of heat. If the pan is large enough to cook using two burners -- do so. But you'll still have to move and rotate it.
Simmer gently without stirring for about 7 minutes. Arrange the shrimp and mussels on top of the rice. After another 10 minutes, the rice should be mostly dry on top, the mussels open and shrimp cooked to a nice pink. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and allow it to cook 3 minutes more. If you want to try for
socarrat, now's the time (see Note 3).
Turn off the heat, and allow the paella to rest for ten minutes before serving.
Note 1: You can add whatever you like to fill out the sea food ingredients. I used a very abbreviated, easy to find sort of ingredient list. Be loose, be adventurous, be Sapnish! Spiny lobster tails, whole, small spiny lobsters, clams, langostino, crawfish, eel, whatever. The trick is to figure out how long it's going to take to cook so as to time it's addition appropriately -- not a biggie. Although not a
mariscos standard, I love artichoke in nearly all
paellas
Note 2: More on rice. It really helps to know how long it takes for your particular rice to cook and what the ideal ratio of water to rice is; while remembering you're going for individual rather than clumpy grains. You also have to allow for evaporation because you're cooking. So, if you're using something besides bomba or calasparra, allow an additional 10% to 15% water, because you're cooking open. For instance, I'd use 3-1/2 cups of liquid to cook basmati type rice, but for paella I'd add another 1/3 cup --
un poquito less than 4 cups.
Note 3: You're probably sophisticated enough to want
socarrat (crispy rice). Turn off the phone, for the last two minutes of cooking. Crank the heat and keep your head near the pan. Listen for the crackle of the rice, and smell the aroma of toasting. As soon as you do, turn the heat off.
Buena suerte,
BDL
PS.
The usual boilerplate. This is my original recipe -- in the sense that any recipe can be said to be original. If you want to share it, you have my permission to do so as long as you credit me, Boar D. Laze for its creation. I would consider it an additional kindness if you would also mention my eventually forthcoming book, COOK FOOD GOOD: American Cooking and Technique for Beginners and Intermediates, to anyone who will sit still long enough.