Week Three - chicken and fonds

[Plongeur]

I started joking a while ago that I've lived in France for so long that I sometimes have problems remembering English words, but it's now becoming true. Like when I wrote the title of this piece I was simply unable to remember the English word for 'fonds'. It's 'stocks', but it's taken me a good few moments to work that out.
Someone elsewhere on ChefTalk has been asking about doing a stage in France in 3* restaurants, and they've had some good replies (plus a couple from me). We've had foreign students in the kitchen, most of whom have spoken at least a little French, but one German student didn't speak any at all. So he and Chef had fun conversing in English all week - not as much fun as I had listening to the two of them, mind you. So it's not impossible to do a stage here if you have little or no French - provided you can find a willing chef.
But at school there's even less time to work out what stuff means than in the restaurant, and I have to concentrate hard to keep up with what the Chef there is saying. Classroom sessions are doubly hard - taking notes is a French dictation class as well as a cookery learning experience for me. If you want to go to cookery school in France, go to French classes first!
My school days start with an hour of that dictation, sitting in a classroom being taught about some technical aspect of the job - the different cuts of meat you get from a pig, for example, or how to store fish properly (my school Chef used to be the poissonnier - chef de partie in charge of fish - in a big restaurant, so he pretty much knows what he's talking about here).
Then we go collect our ingredients from the central Garde Manger - pantry - and watch Chef demo what we're supposed to do. This week, it's a 'Fricasée de Poulet à l'Ancienne', old-fashioned chicken fricasée (if there's an English word for 'fricasée I don't know it, I first heard this word when my mother made the dish at the school where she was head cook).
The idea is that, each week, we learn some new skills whilst actually making something edible for one of the three restaurants on campus; normally the stuff we make goes either to the posh, fine-dining restaurant or, more usually, the self-service restaurant mostly used by staff and students.
Today, we learn how to cut up a chicken before cooking it, not forgetting to remove the 'sots-y-laissent' - the oysters down there under the carcass; 'sots-y-laissent' means, literally, 'The stupid leave them there' as they're considered some of the finer parts of the chicken's anatomy, taste-wise. And if we don't remember to remove them (as part of the thigh portion) we lose marks. Indeed, the maitre d'hotel at the restaurant reckons that, back in his day, it was a guaranteed exam failure if you left them in.
Today's chickens are 'PAC', 'Prêt à cuire' or ready to cook; this means they arrive ready-eviscerated and without their heads; that sort of stuff we learn later this term, apparently; today it's about knife skills (fine cutting, following skeleton structure, chopping and not cutting ourselves).
The carcass and bits we use to make a 'fond blanc', a white stock; this means bringing the bones to the boil, discarding the water and then starting over with the bones and our GA, Garniture Aromatique (you can probably translate that one for yourselves) - small amount of carrot, onion, herbs from the garden for a bouquet garni and our mushroom peelings. Chef shows us a special way to carve the mushrooms which I will never master; it essentially turns your average Champignon de Paris (basic white mushroom) into a spinning top. Even he says he finds it hard, although his effort at least still resembles a mushroom when he finishes - mine, well mine looks like I trod on it, and that's being polite.
We also make pear tarts - pears poached in syrup then baked in a tart case filled with crème d'amandes, which gives us another chance to practise our pâte brisée. Which seems to translate as 'broken pastry', which can't be right; shortcrust, possibly? I find that, as well as forgetting some English words, I'm learning French words for which I have NEVER known the English words. Like 'sauteuse' and 'pochon' which are, respectively, a kind of saucepan with sides that slope outwards and a small ladle. I'm gonna be really stuck if I ever work in an English kitchen, I tell you.
Anyway, I get told off for slicing and fanning out my pears - the picture in the recipe book shows the pears whole, apparently, and that's what counts in the exam; it has to look like the picture or you lose marks (perhaps this is where the Chinese restaurants get this idea from?), even if your idea actually looks better.
We also have an hour of 'Hygiene' today, all about lipids (we get to do proteins and glucides, sugars, next). The human body, it seems, needs one gram of lipids per kilo of its weight per day. Three portion s of foie gras and I'm done, I guess. Apart from this fact, hygiene is BORING; our teacher is a former hospital dietician and, after communicating the 10 minutes worth of information she needs to impart each lesson, spends the rest of the hour lecturing us about how young people today eat too much fat/sugar/burgers, how they have no respect, how....I doze off at this point, as do others; one person even starts snoring.
This afternoon in the kitchen we also do a pilaf rice, including the complicated idea that the volume of water (or, in this case, stock) we add should be one and a half times the VOLUME of the rice; many get this wrong by weighing the rice, which doesn't work at all. I do get it right, and even get to test my new digital timer to make sure the rice only goes into the oven for 17 minutes; it comes out perfect, but Chef claims that there's not enough salt in the rice, even though it tastes fine to me.
Well, apparently the taste buds go when you get older, I tell him.

Next week: pâte feuilleté - puff pastry!

[Nicko]

I agree Chris there is no question that it can be extremely tough to get along in the kitchen if you don't speak the language. When I was in Bourg en Bresse France I was fortunate enough that the sous chef and some of the apprentices spoke English. The Chef did not speak a word of English and had no interest in learning any.

[cape chef]

Chris,
Great post.

Very interesting curriculum layout. Much of what you talked about is typical for a freshman to learn. I.E, knife skills, stocks, poultry butchery, sauces etc.Doing puff pastry in my school starts in your sophomore semester when you learn rolled in doughs like brioche, danish and puff pastry.

The mushroom you speak of we call "turned" or tourne,the aromatics for your stock is called a mire poix. And the pear/almond tart with pate brisse is a frangipane. I'd love to see your curriculum, and if you would like I'll share mine. Thanks for the journal. Fun reading.

[Plongeur]

You have a curriculum? Cool. Wish we did - Chef decides the week before what we're going to do the following week, depending on what the supply guys reckon they'll be able to get from the market. As my class is on a Monday we sometimes have real problems getting decent fish, for example.

[cape chef]

Hope this works.


Module 1: Weeks 1-15
Introduction to Culinary Arts
Food Safety
Culinary Skill Development
Nutrition
Meat Identification and Fabrication
Food Purchasing & Receiving
Baking & Pastry Skill Development
Breakfast & Lunch Skill Development
Module 2: Weeks 16-30
Kitchen Staples and the Art of Seasoning
Wines and Beverages
Kitchen Management
Dining Room Management
Garde Manger
Culinary Leadership
Advanced Culinary Skill Development
American Regional Cuisine
Baking and Pastry Skill Development II
Culinary Internship
Module 3: Weeks 31-45
Professional Table Service
Computer Concepts
Food and Beverage Cost Controls
Food and Wine Pairing
Techniques of Healthy Cooking
Regional French Cuisine
Asian Cuisine
Mediterranean Cuisine
World Cuisine
Module 4: Weeks 46-60
Catering and Banquets
Menu Planning
Garde Manger II
Culinary Career Paths
Patisserie
Performance and Presentation
Culinary Internship II
Program Outline, Center for Culinary Arts
Day Program
Culinary Arts Course Descriptions, Day Program
INTRODUCTION TO CULINARY ARTS
Topics covered in this course include the
history of food and the food service
industry, the various types of food service
operations, culinary terminology, equipment
identification and the past, present
and future role of the chef.
FOOD SAFETY
This course is based on the National
Restaurant Association’s Serve/Safe
Food Service Sanitation course. Students
will learn about the causes of food
contamination and spoilage, food-borne
illness, safe food handling procedures,
and control methods for protecting the
customer. Students successfully passing
the National Restaurant Association’s
Education Foundation standardized test
will receive their Sanitation Certificate.
CULINARY SKILL DEVELOPMENT
Students start their kitchen training by
learning proper cooking techniques,
culinary terminology, and the proper use
and care of culinary tools. The production
of stocks, sauces, soups and meats as
well as efficient and safe knife skills will
be stressed.
NUTRITION
This course introduces the basic principles
of nutrition as they apply to different
food service operations. The categories
of nutrients are identified and their
importance in a balanced diet discussed.
The student will learn the evolution of the
USDA food pyramid and its significance in
planning wholesome menus. Product
labeling will be explained along with the
effect storage and preparation techniques
have on food’s nutritional value.
MEAT IDENTIFICATION AND FABRICATION
Taught in conjunction with Culinary Skill
Development, students will learn to bone,
cut and portion a variety of meat items
including poultry, beef, lamb and pork.
Students will gain knowledge in the
handling, receiving and storing of meats,
as well as learning proper inspection and
grading categories.
FOOD PURCHASING & RECEIVING
The duties and responsibilities of the
purchasing agent are crucial to the
financial success of any food service
operation. Students will learn about
ordering, receiving, and storage techniques.
The grading of fruits, vegetables,
meats, poultry, fish and dry goods are
reviewed.
BAKING & PASTRY SKILL DEVELOPMENT
Students learn the principles of baking
with strong emphasis placed on accuracy
and understanding formulas. The
science of baking will be studied and
production will include quick breads,
cookies, pies and yeast breads.
BREAKFAST & LUNCH SKILL
DEVELOPMENT
Students learn to produce traditional
breakfast and lunch items. Topics
include the methods and science of egg
cookery, breakfast flour products such as
griddle cakes and pancakes and crepes,
brunch production and presentation, cold
sandwiches, hot sandwiches, deep fried
products, wraps, burgers and condiments.
KITCHEN STAPLES & THE ART OF
SEASONING
The successful preparation of desirable
food in today’s commercial kitchens
requires intimate knowledge of the
world’s many kitchen staples including
herbs, spices, oils, extracts, flavorings,
and nuts. Product identification by sight,
smell and taste will be stressed.
WINES AND BEVERAGES
This course will explore the fundamentals
of wine and beverage management.
Wine production processes will be
discussed and students will have the
opportunity to learn through both lecture
and wine tasting. Discussions on grape
varieties, diseases and farming customs
are part of the course. Students will also
become familiar with alcoholic and nonalcoholic
beverages and the laws
governing them.
KITCHEN MANAGEMENT
Students will learn essential management
techniques used in the kitchen.
The philosophy, psychology and teamwork
aspects of managing a kitchen will
be stressed. Emphasis will be placed on
the importance of quality team management.
Culinary Arts Course Descriptions, Day Program, 2
GARDE MANGER
Good management of under-utilized food
items could dramatically increase
restaurant revenues. In the kitchen,
students learn to prepare pates, terrines,
sausages, and similar foods, and
arrange platters using fruits, cheeses,
vegetables, canapés and hors d’ouvres.
ADVANCED CULINARY SKILL
DEVELOPMENT
Now that students possess basic
knowledge about proper cooking techniques
and sauce preparations, students
will be asked to apply those techniques to
more complicated dishes using more
specialized ingredients. Emphasis in this
course is placed on beef, veal, seafood
and shellfish preparations. Students will
be taught proper plate presentations.
AMERICAN REGIONAL CUISINE
In this course, students will learn to
prepare dishes representative of the
different regions of the United States.
Regional food items typically reflect the
history of the region and the food items
that are grown and harvested in that
region. From the Northeast to the
Southwest and all point in between, this
class will feature some of the best that
America has to offer.
DINING ROOM MANAGEMENT
Communication between the back of the
house and the front of the house and
communication with customers are focal
points of this class. Techniques and
procedures that ensure quality service
and management of the dining room are
stressed.
CULINARY LEADERSHIP
To move up the culinary career ladder,
chefs need to be good motivators,
teachers, managers, thinkers and
leaders. Students will learn the importance
of effective communications to train
successful employees. Topics including
training objectives, instructional delivery,
orientation training, training technology
and psychology will be presented.
BAKING AND PASTRY SKILL
DEVELOPMENT II
Advanced baking and pastry techniques
will be presented to students. Pies and
tarts, rolled-in dough products, such as
croissants, pate a choux and specialty
yeast breads will be produced.
PROFESSIONAL TABLE SERVICE
In most classic fine dining restaurants,
tableside preparations are the show--
flames and all. The techniques of proper
tableside service will be presented, and
practiced with classic items which may
include Steak Diane, Sautéed Cornish
Game Hen, Caesar Salad, Cherries
Jubilee, Crepe Suzette, Bananas Foster
and Steak au Poivre.
COMPUTER CONCEPTS
Using Microsoft Word and Excel, students
will work within the windows-based
environment utilizing applications most
important to their careers. Computer
exercises include developing a cover
letter and resume to get prepared for the
job market.
FOOD AND BEVERAGE COST CONTROLS
This course examines the current
methods and principles of food, beverage,
and labor cost controls for food
service operations. The relationship
between cost of goods sold, revenues
generated, and net profit are explored.
The student will see how cost decisions
are made and learn how managers react
to different industry trends.
FOOD AND WINE PAIRING
Students learn the proper guidelines of
matching specific wines with specific food
items. Pairing wines and food items
properly leads to a great dining experience
for customers.
TECHNIQUES OF HEALTHY COOKING
Can a chef prepare food items that are
healthy to eat, yet pleasing to the palate?
In this course students will learn to use
techniques and ingredients that satisfy
the healthy customer's desire for flavorful
food.
Culinary Arts Course Descriptions, Day Program, 3
REGIONAL FRENCH CUISINE
Students prepare classic French recipes
indicative of specific regions of France.
Students will gain an appreciation for
regional influences on food and how they
have sculpted what has become the
“classic cuisine” of the world.
ASIAN CUISINE
Students learn to prepare regional dishes
of Asia. Emphasis will be placed on
ingredients, flavor profiles, preparations,
and techniques representative of the
cuisines of China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam,
Thailand and Indonesia.
MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE
Prepare, taste, serve, and evaluate
traditional, regional dishes of Europe and
the Mediterranean. Emphasis will be
placed on ingredients, flavor profiles,
preparations, and techniques representative
of the cuisines of Spain, Portugal,
France, Morocco, Tunisia, Greece, and
Egypt.
WORLD CUISINE
Students in this course will visit a wide
variety of culinary destinations. As such,
they will prepare, taste, serve, and
evaluate traditional dishes from the
British Isles, Africa, Germany, Mexico,
South America and the Carribbean.
CATERING AND BANQUETS
Catering operations represent a large
percentage of business in culinary arts.
Students learn to integrate cooking and
event management skills to create the
“perfect” event. Topics of discussion will
include equipment, staffing, start-up,
business practices, and planning menus.
A variety of catering menus will be
produced for a number of different catered
events.
MENU PLANNING
Here, students will develop a practical
working knowledge of menu planning and
design. Color, layout, cost and merchandising
of food will be taught to the student
as part of this course. Several menu
types will be presented and discussed.
GARDE MANGER II
This course refines the student’s skills in
charcuterie and sets the emphasis on
cold displays where food texture, color,
artistic creativity and complimentary
flavors are orchestrated to achieve
optimum eye and palate appeal. Classic
production techniques are paired with
today’s trends and restaurant requirements.
CULINARY CAREER PATHS
Through group and individual sessions
with the instructor, students will receive a
professional assessment of their skills
as those skills relate to future employment
opportunities.
PATISSERIE
From egg foam cakes to angel food,
chiffon, meringue and high ratio cakes,
students will learn to bake, assemble and
decorate cakes for restaurant menus and
special occasions. In addition, students
will create specialized dessert sauces
and learn beautiful plate presentations.
PERFORMANCE AND PRESENTATION
As part of this capstone course students
will plan and prepare a multi-course
dining event for paying guests. Students
will be responsible for every detail of the
event from menu planning to menu
costing, food preparation and service.
CULINARY INTERNSHIP I & II
Work experience provides the student
with an opportunity to apply the skills and
knowledge developed in the classroom
and apply it. This is an exciting and
extremely worthwhile course designed to
build confidence and provide practical
experience for the chef-in-training. CA215
requires 135 hours of on-the-job work
experience and CA315 requires 135
hours of on-the-job work experience
during the fourth module.

[kuan]

Originally Posted by Plongeur

You have a curriculum? Cool. Wish we did - Chef decides the week before what we're going to do the following week, depending on what the supply guys reckon they'll be able to get from the market. As my class is on a Monday we sometimes have real problems getting decent fish, for example.

Heh that's cool. We should all be so lucky. Really takes you back to where it all begins.

[Nicko]

Cape do you develop the curiculum or is it dictated by your school?

[Gudy]

Culinary School?

Thanks