taken from the uk`s restauant magazine
In an interview with Heston Blumenthal in the Financial Times, the chef asks himself if he is worth his third star: "I feel a little guilty...Is this deserved?" His current obsession, the paper states is to "taste a smell".
Moans and groans
Antony Worrall Thompson and Nico Ladenis have criticised Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal for "obsessively 'chasing the Holy Grail' of Michelin stars", reports the Sunday Telegraph. Thompson said Michelin encouraged "aggressive chefs because they got so paranoid". He would prefer three Michelin tyres outside his restaurant, he added. Ladenis argued that Michelin did "a great disservice to the industry" in rewarding so-called innovation such as Heston Blumenthal's egg and bacon ice cream. Derek Brown, Michelin's hotel and restaurant guide director acknowledged the comments, stating: "There has been a preoccupation with 'I've got to cook well so that I can get a star', rather than 'I've got to cook well so I can satisfy my customers'". Writer and chef Rowley Leigh added his weight to the argument, commenting: "The scoring system needs to be overhauled so that it doesn't place such emphasis on formal fine dining."
well said rowley-cmj
The Daily Telegraph's Jan Moir got to sample the now three-star molecular gastronomy of The Fat Duck this week. Beginning with what she described as a "culinary joke," Moir was served two squares of jelly - one orange, one beetroot coloured - which turned out to be of blood orange and golden beetroot. She found the food "oddly masculine", appealing to "chefs and industry professionals." She admitted it was "technically brilliant" but "challenging". The £85 tasting menu began with a "gummy" selection of amuse dishes: green tea and lime meringue, a single oyster in a pool of horseradish cream and passion fruit jelly, a teaspoon of mustard ice cream in a pool of red cabbage, and quail jelly with pea puree. Next, a spoon of snail porridge, a slice of poached and glazed foie gras that "melt[ed] on the tongue, not in an entirely pleasant way." Savoury ices followed, with Moir finding the experience "actively horrible". The textures were "relentless" and "pappy" and Moir was desperate for "a proper lunch".
desperate for "a proper lunch". not the usual remark after having a 3 star lunch-cmj