My first class at cookery school went well; as anticipated, we spent most of the day making apple tarts, and I learned a few other things too.
First, when some people say they "Know nothing" about cooking, they ain't joking - after I'd shown the chap sharing my workstation how to cut two millimetre (about a tenth of an inch) thick apple slices (his were more like one centimetre/half an inch thick), I then had to show the young lady at the next workstation exactly how a measuring jug works. Yes, that's right, you just pour liquid in until it arrives at the 50 mark and then you have 50 ccs (just under two fluid ounces) of liquid. And, er, yes, then you'd pour it out again if you intend using it. Breathe in: and then breathe out…
And secondly, I learned just how much of my time it takes up helping out other people who know less than me; whilst on the one hand I'm happy to help, I'm also here to learn myself and ended up finishing my tart even later than those I'd been helping.
And, thirdly, I learned what it's like to be back at school at the ripe old age of 44. When my teacher explained, politely but firmly, that I would be expected to arrive in a jacket and tie and "Proper shoes" (not training shoes) before changing into my kitchen attire, I laughed. But he was serious - I'm expected to arrive neat and tidy after a 15 minute cycle ride in a jacket and tie to walk the 50 metres/yards from the entrance gate to the changing rooms…hmm.
My teacher did complement me on my neatly pressed apron and jacket, though, so I may not be the class bad boy after all. And I did do a good job with my tart and the courgette flan and fondue de tomates (tomatoes chopped and simmered slowly with chopped shallots and garlic and a little water) which he said tasted good.
Back at the restaurant, the dress code for those arriving by bicycle are slightly less strict and, since I usually finish most shifts completely soaked with water from the knees down, chef isn't worried that my trousers are sometimes on the scruffy side of neatly pressed and ironed.
And, continuing his campaign to make me the best-prepared student in my class, when he learned that we're going to be doing mackerel next week he promptly hauled out three giant (6 - 7 kilo/about 15 pounds) rainbow trout for me to practise on. Now, I already know how to de-fin, scale and gut fish - I've been doing this for all the fish we get at the restaurant since last December and am, even if I say so myself, getting pretty good at it.
But what I haven't done myself until now - although I've watched Chef do dozens - is lift the fillets off a fish. In the end, it's not that difficult - and a lot less messy than cleaning them in the first place. Wipe the fish down with some kitchen paper first (especially oily fish like trout/salmon, mackerel and so on) and lie it with the cut belly facing away from you, the head to the right (or the left if you're left-handed). Cut the flesh away from the head using a good filleting knife (I've just bought a new Sabatier to go to school with) in a semi-circular cut. When you get to the backbone, turn the knife clockwise through 90 degrees, still in the flesh, and cut along through the bones towards the tail. For deep-bellied fish (like our giant trout) you may need to lift the belly flesh to stop yourself cutting through it. Keep the knife almost horizontal and parallel to the backbone with your left hand flat on its side until you get to the tail. Lift the fillet away and reserve. Then, without turning the fish over, lift the head (you get the best grip with your thumb and a finger in the eye sockets) cut through the flesh on the other side in a mirror-image to the first side, keeping your left hand flat on the backbone as you cut through the bones, still with the knife slightly angled towards the backbone. Reserve the second fillet and then use a spoon to scoop out any flesh still on the bones and behind the head and reserve it to make a nice mousse later on.
Cut any fat from the fillets, lying your knife flat along the flesh so you don't cut too deeply into it. Trim the top and bottom edges in one long, continuous cut to make them neat, then remove the bones using a curved pair of pliers (Chef takes about 20 seconds per fish to do this, it took me three or four minutes. Then again during his apprenticeship 17 years ago he did 10 cases of fish like this every week, so he's had some practise). Then wrap the fillets in clear film until you're ready to do something interesting with them (we poach them in white wine or smoke them in our own smoking unit usually). Be especially careful with fillets from trout and salmon to support them along their entire length, the flesh is delicate and prone to 'tearing', which makes it look less attractive.
The trout would also go nicely with those courgette flans we made in school last week - you can use any vegetable in such a dish, and it's simplicity itself to make. For two courgettes use two eggs and 50 ccs (two fluid ounces) of cream (any kind you like), a pinch of salt and 50ccs of olive oil (cooking quality). Slice the courgettes 1 cm/half an inch thick after washing them, and dry them in a hot oven (set it at maximum) for 15 minutes on an oiled baking sheet. Turn the temperature down to minimum when they start to colour then allow to cool when they get just beyond al dente. Chop them roughly and mix them with the eggs and cream in a bowl and pour into ramekins. Bake at 100 centigrade/212 Fahrenheit for 30 minutes in a bain marie (water bath), testing with a point of a knife or fork to make sure they're cooked through.
Et voila, Flan de Courgette a l'école.
First, when some people say they "Know nothing" about cooking, they ain't joking - after I'd shown the chap sharing my workstation how to cut two millimetre (about a tenth of an inch) thick apple slices (his were more like one centimetre/half an inch thick), I then had to show the young lady at the next workstation exactly how a measuring jug works. Yes, that's right, you just pour liquid in until it arrives at the 50 mark and then you have 50 ccs (just under two fluid ounces) of liquid. And, er, yes, then you'd pour it out again if you intend using it. Breathe in: and then breathe out…
And secondly, I learned just how much of my time it takes up helping out other people who know less than me; whilst on the one hand I'm happy to help, I'm also here to learn myself and ended up finishing my tart even later than those I'd been helping.
And, thirdly, I learned what it's like to be back at school at the ripe old age of 44. When my teacher explained, politely but firmly, that I would be expected to arrive in a jacket and tie and "Proper shoes" (not training shoes) before changing into my kitchen attire, I laughed. But he was serious - I'm expected to arrive neat and tidy after a 15 minute cycle ride in a jacket and tie to walk the 50 metres/yards from the entrance gate to the changing rooms…hmm.
My teacher did complement me on my neatly pressed apron and jacket, though, so I may not be the class bad boy after all. And I did do a good job with my tart and the courgette flan and fondue de tomates (tomatoes chopped and simmered slowly with chopped shallots and garlic and a little water) which he said tasted good.
Back at the restaurant, the dress code for those arriving by bicycle are slightly less strict and, since I usually finish most shifts completely soaked with water from the knees down, chef isn't worried that my trousers are sometimes on the scruffy side of neatly pressed and ironed.
And, continuing his campaign to make me the best-prepared student in my class, when he learned that we're going to be doing mackerel next week he promptly hauled out three giant (6 - 7 kilo/about 15 pounds) rainbow trout for me to practise on. Now, I already know how to de-fin, scale and gut fish - I've been doing this for all the fish we get at the restaurant since last December and am, even if I say so myself, getting pretty good at it.
But what I haven't done myself until now - although I've watched Chef do dozens - is lift the fillets off a fish. In the end, it's not that difficult - and a lot less messy than cleaning them in the first place. Wipe the fish down with some kitchen paper first (especially oily fish like trout/salmon, mackerel and so on) and lie it with the cut belly facing away from you, the head to the right (or the left if you're left-handed). Cut the flesh away from the head using a good filleting knife (I've just bought a new Sabatier to go to school with) in a semi-circular cut. When you get to the backbone, turn the knife clockwise through 90 degrees, still in the flesh, and cut along through the bones towards the tail. For deep-bellied fish (like our giant trout) you may need to lift the belly flesh to stop yourself cutting through it. Keep the knife almost horizontal and parallel to the backbone with your left hand flat on its side until you get to the tail. Lift the fillet away and reserve. Then, without turning the fish over, lift the head (you get the best grip with your thumb and a finger in the eye sockets) cut through the flesh on the other side in a mirror-image to the first side, keeping your left hand flat on the backbone as you cut through the bones, still with the knife slightly angled towards the backbone. Reserve the second fillet and then use a spoon to scoop out any flesh still on the bones and behind the head and reserve it to make a nice mousse later on.
Cut any fat from the fillets, lying your knife flat along the flesh so you don't cut too deeply into it. Trim the top and bottom edges in one long, continuous cut to make them neat, then remove the bones using a curved pair of pliers (Chef takes about 20 seconds per fish to do this, it took me three or four minutes. Then again during his apprenticeship 17 years ago he did 10 cases of fish like this every week, so he's had some practise). Then wrap the fillets in clear film until you're ready to do something interesting with them (we poach them in white wine or smoke them in our own smoking unit usually). Be especially careful with fillets from trout and salmon to support them along their entire length, the flesh is delicate and prone to 'tearing', which makes it look less attractive.
The trout would also go nicely with those courgette flans we made in school last week - you can use any vegetable in such a dish, and it's simplicity itself to make. For two courgettes use two eggs and 50 ccs (two fluid ounces) of cream (any kind you like), a pinch of salt and 50ccs of olive oil (cooking quality). Slice the courgettes 1 cm/half an inch thick after washing them, and dry them in a hot oven (set it at maximum) for 15 minutes on an oiled baking sheet. Turn the temperature down to minimum when they start to colour then allow to cool when they get just beyond al dente. Chop them roughly and mix them with the eggs and cream in a bowl and pour into ramekins. Bake at 100 centigrade/212 Fahrenheit for 30 minutes in a bain marie (water bath), testing with a point of a knife or fork to make sure they're cooked through.
Et voila, Flan de Courgette a l'école.
