Rusted Knives?

If its just a few spots on the side of the blade steel wool should work

Steel wool should take it out but may also scratch the knife. Barkeepers friend should do it too, or many other polishes. Flitz is one I've used with pretty good results and it's available many places.

This polish is also well regarded: Simichrome-When Ordering with Another Item -- A. G. Russell Knives

For SMALL spots a standard pencil eraser works well. But a special version is available that works better.

Rust Eraser -- A. G. Russell Knives

Even after removal, you may have a dark stained spot there.

Phil

I use a glass-ceramic cooktop cleaner (i.e. Cerama bryte and the like).

This stuff is also good from scratches on watch lenses (the plastic ones).

can also clean stainless steel pot and pans that have stubborn food/scale residue.

BTW, stainless steel rust only when (non stainless) steel iron gets in contact with it. If your knifes have rust spots it either means you washed them with rusting metal like cheap fondue forks or something else may be rusting in your dishwasher. Check the wire basket if the plastic has peeled of the wire and it is rusting (or maybe a hidden part somewhere is rusting away).

Luc H

This time you're wrong Luc. Stainless will rust under many circumstances. Yes, the dielectric current between dissimilar metals is one of those, but plain stainless steel will rust from water alone. A free chloride ion eats stainless steel for lunch. Chrome isn't a magic additive that prevents rusting, merely discourages it.

I've rusted most every common cutlery stainless steel just from pocket carry. AUS6, AUS8, 440B, 440C, ATS-34, 154CM, S30V, 12c27 and more. Not to mention non-cutlery stainless such as 420, 410 and so-on that are supposed to be highly rust resistant. The 410 was in a completely nested situation and isolated from contact with other metals and it rusted on the least exposed surface.

Here's some info from Mike Stewart, a highly competent knife maker who knows more about steel than most: Aus-8 steel and (oh noes!) rust - Knifeforums.com - Intelligent Discussion for the Knife Enthusiast - Powered by FusionBB


Phil

Ok Phil,
(I accept being wrong)
I know little about stainless steel grades you speak. I liked the discussion with Mike Stewart. Thanks.

I was speaking from experience not from science in my reply.
In meat packing plants and other wet surface food production areas stainless steel surfaces rust only from contact with (oxidizable) iron. Leave a screw on the counter after applying caustic then hosing down the place and bingo, a straight rust mark line appears. The only thing that can take it out is grinding the spot (after they find the guilty party that left iron on the table and pass him in the meat grinder).

At home we can't afford any expensive cutlery or chef knifes. Anything that doesn't have a wooden handle goes in the dishwasher. I have cheap stainless steel knifes and cutlery and they never rust except during a one month period. Getting tired of buffing the every day cutlery, I thoroughly inspected the dishwasher and noticed the wire basket was rusting on the bottom of the plate rack. The plastic sheathing was torn after many plates hitting the same spot. I replaced the basket thinking that rust particles was being carried in the water during rinsing and spotting the cutlery. No rust since except on occasions we throw in those dang iron fondue forks...

Luc H.

Luc, I've rusted my s/s countertops with steel meat grinder dies too and wet kitchen-aid shredder attachements, and I've also manged to pit my trusted Henkels knife by not properly washing it after slicing tomatoes. When I took it out of the rack a few days later there was a series of deep pitt marks where some errant tomato seeds hadn't been carefully wiped off, they ate through the steel!

You can use a type of sandpaper called wet-or-dry and it's used in the automotive industry for body work. Start with about 300 grit and go progressively finer - all the way to 1500 or 2000 grit. This sandpaper can be gotten at Wally world or any hardware store.

I've used that stuff to remove scratches from my (mostly 1095 carbon steel) blades and the finer grits leave a very nicely buffed finish.

So Foopump,
You believe my explanation is plausible, right?

(wow those tomato seeds are vicious!!I have to remember that one...)

Kokopuffs, yep wet sand paper would work for deep marks for sure. (good idea). It reminds me that even car body buffing compound could also work for mild rust (similar to ceramic top cleaner). Maybe even rust spot remover also used for car bodies, it contains phosphoric acid... come to think of it maybe cola could remove mild rust.... writing out loud here.

Luc H.

Some people use a coke soak to remove rust from cast iron cookware.

Phil

Don't have experience with coke but I've used a product called Navel Jelly which contains phosphorice acid. It works great when it comes to a very light rust coating. Still, after using the acid consider using 1200+ grit wet-or-dry to buff up the finish.

Look on the ingredient list of Coke, it's there, Phosphoric acid.....

Just use some dutch cleanser rubbed with a wine cork. That's worked on my knives made with 1095 carbon steel.

I've heard of knifemakers soaking the carbon steel blade in vinegar overnight to establish the patina. Dunno' if this procedure works for stainless steel.

You probably don't want to do this. SS will in fact rust if you force it but why would you do that? Wash, dry, and put the knife away. It'll always look "sanitary" to your guests.

Buzz

Drac:

Vinegar is a kind of flavored acetic acid. Farm grade acetic acid may be known as Glacial Acetic Acid because clear crystals will sometimes form within the liquid.

I use a bit of 000 steel wool to clean my knives. You don't have to rub hard, but it will take the rust off.