Last night, Chris Kimball of Cooks Illustrated and America's Test Kitchen fame, did a small segment on CNN, of which I caught the last half. He expressed something that I've felt for quite a while, that we don't what real food tastes like. Before going on, allow me to say that this is a broad generalization.
The point he was making is that so many people buy their food in packages at the supermarket, already prepared at restaurants, take-out places, or food counters in markets and malls. Even when we "cook" many of the ingredients are already prepared for us. Good examples are canned or boxed stocks and broth, seasoned chicken or meat from places like Trader Joe's, heat and serve frozen foods, and so on. Not only are these foods processed, but they are often laden with chemicals, preservatives, or highly seasoned, which often masks the taste of the food itself.
In addition, many recipes todayare "kicked up" and loaded withlots of ingredients to enhance or provide greater flavor, again sometimes masking the taste of the main ingredient(s).
I tend to agree with this premise. When reading many new recipes I see a long list of ingredients, many quite strong and intensely flavorful. And while there's nothing inherently wrong with that, how many of us know what a plain and simple truly fresh vegetable or chicken tastes like? One of the best chicken dishes I ever had was something called Baak Chit Gai, or Pure Cut Chicken, which was nothing more than chicken poached in some water with a little salt and pepper. Jim Lee, the fellow from whom I got the recipe (and who wrote a great little Chinese cook book, said of the technique: "There are some foods that are so good in themselves that everything possible should be done to preserve their individual character and flavor. A good prime steak grilled over charcoal or a fresh lobster boiled in sea water come to mind as excellent examples. However, we often ask ourselves "What can I do to dress up this or that food so it’ll be different?" We usually end up adding something, whether it be spices, other meats, vegetables, or sauces. Sometimes it is equally important to know when to subtract, or not add anything, in order to prepare a wonderful dish. In this recipe, chicken is the star, as if it were on center stage with a spotlight on it, and you are the director of the show. And, as the director, you must select the best chicken possible."
I've made Baak Chit Gai several times, but only when I could get the right chicken, and it was delicious - in fact, just about the best chicken dish I ever had. Josephine Araldo's recipes and cooking, as featured in the book From a Breton Garden focuses on simple vegetable dishes, relying not so much on spices as super fresh ingredients cooked and prepared simply to show off their character, not as a base to show off sauces.
Personally, I like simple food, where the flavor of a main ingredient or two shines through in a clear an uncomplicated way. It's wonderful to eat a fresh-picked green bean, or fresh picked corn, or some other vegetable, straight and unadorned, with just a minimum of cooking, or even uncooked.
So what do you think of Kimball's premise? Have youever eaten fresh corn (justpicked) right from the stalk, or an apple picked just a moment before your first bite into it, or a lobster right from the sea? I know some of us have, but I'd suspect that those of us who have may be a distinct minority. It's very difficult for me to get those kinds of foods, even living where I do and having sought out the best sources possible for quality and freshness.
Shel
The point he was making is that so many people buy their food in packages at the supermarket, already prepared at restaurants, take-out places, or food counters in markets and malls. Even when we "cook" many of the ingredients are already prepared for us. Good examples are canned or boxed stocks and broth, seasoned chicken or meat from places like Trader Joe's, heat and serve frozen foods, and so on. Not only are these foods processed, but they are often laden with chemicals, preservatives, or highly seasoned, which often masks the taste of the food itself.
In addition, many recipes todayare "kicked up" and loaded withlots of ingredients to enhance or provide greater flavor, again sometimes masking the taste of the main ingredient(s).
I tend to agree with this premise. When reading many new recipes I see a long list of ingredients, many quite strong and intensely flavorful. And while there's nothing inherently wrong with that, how many of us know what a plain and simple truly fresh vegetable or chicken tastes like? One of the best chicken dishes I ever had was something called Baak Chit Gai, or Pure Cut Chicken, which was nothing more than chicken poached in some water with a little salt and pepper. Jim Lee, the fellow from whom I got the recipe (and who wrote a great little Chinese cook book, said of the technique: "There are some foods that are so good in themselves that everything possible should be done to preserve their individual character and flavor. A good prime steak grilled over charcoal or a fresh lobster boiled in sea water come to mind as excellent examples. However, we often ask ourselves "What can I do to dress up this or that food so it’ll be different?" We usually end up adding something, whether it be spices, other meats, vegetables, or sauces. Sometimes it is equally important to know when to subtract, or not add anything, in order to prepare a wonderful dish. In this recipe, chicken is the star, as if it were on center stage with a spotlight on it, and you are the director of the show. And, as the director, you must select the best chicken possible."
I've made Baak Chit Gai several times, but only when I could get the right chicken, and it was delicious - in fact, just about the best chicken dish I ever had. Josephine Araldo's recipes and cooking, as featured in the book From a Breton Garden focuses on simple vegetable dishes, relying not so much on spices as super fresh ingredients cooked and prepared simply to show off their character, not as a base to show off sauces.
Personally, I like simple food, where the flavor of a main ingredient or two shines through in a clear an uncomplicated way. It's wonderful to eat a fresh-picked green bean, or fresh picked corn, or some other vegetable, straight and unadorned, with just a minimum of cooking, or even uncooked.
So what do you think of Kimball's premise? Have youever eaten fresh corn (justpicked) right from the stalk, or an apple picked just a moment before your first bite into it, or a lobster right from the sea? I know some of us have, but I'd suspect that those of us who have may be a distinct minority. It's very difficult for me to get those kinds of foods, even living where I do and having sought out the best sources possible for quality and freshness.
Shel









