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New Orleans

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
I just got back from a vacation down in New Orleans. It had been about 8 years since I was there and my wife had never been so we were due for the trip. When I lived there I was a culinary intern, living about 5 blocks from Commander's Palace. Needless to say that on an interns pay I couldn't afford to eat there, so I was looking forward to eating there this time around. What a great meal!!! I loved everything from the Turtle Soup to the Shrimp wrapped around tasso and served with a 3 pepper jelly and tabaso butter sauce. Also had a special of Snapper with an herb crust with mashed potatoes, and a creole sauce studded with rock shrimp. Of course, for dessert we had the Bread Pudding Souffle and a round of cafe burlot (a flaming coffee drink made tableside). I had told our server about my internship in New Orleans that I was coming back to finally be able to dine here. Well, he made sure my wife and I had the "royal" treatment. Not only was his team there for our every need one of the managers paid very close attention to us all night long. They were all very professional yet also very, very friendly. It was truly one of the best dining experiences I have ever had.

We also ate at the Court of Two Sisters. Unfortunately, the food here was not very good (one of the worse gumbos I have ever had). Our server smelled like he had just come from the bar, and as he had just come on for his shift seemed very disoriented. He also had the nastiest teeth I had ever seen. Almost rotted away. I don't need someone like that hovering over me as I am trying to eat!!

Then there was all the standbys that I could afford back then that I had to hit again. Mother's is still great. My wife fell in love with Cafe du Monde and would get up early in the morning, take the riverside steetcar over there, have breakfast and be back before I was out of bed. And finally, there was Central Grocery, home of the Muffeletta. The best in the city!! I must have eaten 4 whole sandwiches there during our stay (and if you have ever seen a whole muffeletta you know what a feat that is)!!
post #2 of 21
Court of Two Sisters has NEVER been good.....I ate there in the seventies and it was soooooo bad I said I'd never go back.

4 whole muffs huh?!!! How many days were you there?
I still have a few jars of Centrals olive salad in my pantry....Mardi Gras is the 12 of Feb this year.

Mothers is a perenial favorite...Ferdi with extra debris.
cooking with all your senses.....
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cooking with all your senses.....
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post #3 of 21
Pete,

Great post...Thanks for sharing a slice of N.O. with us
cc
Baruch ben Rueven / Chanaבראד, ילד של ריימונד והאלאן
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Baruch ben Rueven / Chanaבראד, ילד של ריימונד והאלאן
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post #4 of 21
Thread Starter 
shroomgirl,
5 days!!!!
post #5 of 21
Wow! that's serious muffalotta eating. So where else did you go?
What's in season now?
cooking with all your senses.....
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cooking with all your senses.....
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post #6 of 21
Thread Starter 
We did a lot of eating on the run...between bars, at the zoo, etc. Had a decent meal at "The Gumbo Shop". Nothing that would be considered great, but they have all the standards and it is solid. I wanted Wanda to have a chance to eat as much of the traditional Cajun and Creole food as possible so that place fit the bill. We also ate one night at Kappy's (the restaurant at the Hilton Riverside) it was solid, not great, but again a good turtle soup, though more chili-like than I am used to.

By the way, next time you are down there do the Haunted History tour though the Quarter at night. Also, Grey Line has a great swamp tour done through Cypress Swamp Tours. It is in a bigger boat (I wanted an airboat tour-Wanda did not!) but our captain was this big old Cajun who was so funny and very informative about life in the bayous. It is fun to visit a city that you used to live. You get a chance to do all those touristy things that you would never do as a local!!
post #7 of 21
Pete you make me wish I had a New Orleans cookbook..... :lips:
When I get a little money, I buy books. And if there is any left over, I buy food.

- Desiderius Erasmus
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When I get a little money, I buy books. And if there is any left over, I buy food.

- Desiderius Erasmus
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post #8 of 21
I fell in love on a balcony of the Hilton Riverfront....
good Friday Italian buffet ions ago.....The gumbo Shop a makes a good gumbo....Cajun cookbooks, oh man I have about a dz or more...River Roads is a good community one, Paul Prodhomme has numerous ( I have about 6 of his, fat and skinny), cammanders Palace ho hum, Crawfish Cookbook....pretty good, John Folse's Layfette Landing great recipes!!!!his beignet recipe is mine!!!, Times Picuyune ok, then there is alittle paper back that I got at a county fair part is in Cajun french oh cher this one is a keeper....I made seafood gumbo today.
ONE oyster poboy please.
cooking with all your senses.....
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cooking with all your senses.....
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post #9 of 21
My all time favorite title? Who's Your Mama? Are You Catholic and Can You Make a Roux? :) It's buy Marcelle Bienvenue. She is the brains behind Emeril's Bayou Brawn.
"At weddings, my Aunts would poke me in the ribs and cackle "You're next!". They stopped when I started doing the same to them at funerals." D. Barry
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"At weddings, my Aunts would poke me in the ribs and cackle "You're next!". They stopped when I started doing the same to them at funerals." D. Barry
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post #10 of 21
what is it about New Orleans that is so alluring....????
You post first....I'll follow
cooking with all your senses.....
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cooking with all your senses.....
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post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
I am in love with the history of the place. The fact that that history still seems alive. When you are walking alone, down a dark street in the quarter (assuming you don't get mugged) you can almost hear the horses and carriages of yesteryear clattering down the street or the sounds of pirates drinking in a tavern. You can almost see the ghosts of the French, Spanish, and Creoles walk past you, on their way to do business both legal and illegal. That is the allure of New Orleans for me.
post #12 of 21
I remember reading about New Orleans 30 years ago in Gourmet...mecca for the gourmand. The archetecture, the ambiance, the old world manners, Wonderful glorious food....even the corner stores have great poboys. The old New Orleans adage, if we're not eating we're talking about where we're going to eat....it's a food town. Old world charcuterie, Fresh seafood, incredible vegetables....sitting on the levy eating muffs and drinking barqs, what a great lunch....or powdered sugar fights at Cafe du Monde waxing philisophical nonsence, or taking the streetcar up to Camilla Grill and watching the best show in town.
The southern charm....the parties that flow year round...gumbos, red beans, etouffees, pig roasts are meant to be shared with many. There is an abundance that revels in using EVERYTHING...
It calls me in April and says, the flowers are blooming, the river is flowing, the crawfish are out.....
cooking with all your senses.....
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cooking with all your senses.....
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post #13 of 21
Lots of good ideas here...
My husband just got back from NO, and has to return there again in a week and a half, so I'll be joining him for 2 days. He had eaten at the 2 Sisters and said it was very good. He even liked the gumbo, and he hates okra.

Anyway, he insists that I join him there for dinner. But since there are only 2 nights to go out for dinner, should we do Commander's Palace the other night? Should I even bother with KPaul's (maybe for lunch), or is it too touristy and overrated.

Any other noteworthy food markets?

And that Haunted History Tour sounds like fun!!
post #14 of 21
PS- Shroom,
He brought back a can of Tony Cachere's. Tasty stuff. I sprinkled it on a roast chicken last night.:lips:
post #15 of 21
The ECE of Cammanders just passed away....could not believe it.

Other suggestions: ALWAYS.... Peristyle always has recieved great reviews.As in Best restaurant in NO
Bayonas...Susan Spicer is amazing year after year...it's in the Quarter
John Besh just opened a place....he has the touch.
Ugelisch for lunch, go with a Male....this is where my chef buddies sent me for "the best food in NO" hole in the wall with a line but really to die for....fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade or oyster poboy or etc....it's actually safe but drive there.
If you are there on Sat am check out the CBD farmer's market on Julia, tell Richard McCarthy Julie says hi.....be prepared to ship treats home....I take an ice chest to NO....will bring one to NYC too....things to look for...Meyer lemons, Andouille, Tasso, Creole spice mix, Chicory coffee, Pecans, satsumas....
Tuesday's Broadway farmers market....Uptown Square.
There is a good bakery near Jackson Square...Marquisa...if they have their praline raspberry chocolate square with their logo on it...this is a treat.
Madleline on the next block is a great chain for French bistro food/breakfast....not into chains but I'll make an exception with this one.
Cafe Du Monde is on the next corner...so basically you are just hitting the corners around the square.
Check out the Revillion dinners, during Dec the top flight restaurants do a special Holiday dinner for several weeks....always interesting.
The art museum is good....I like to picnic under the 300 year old oaks...NO may be warm enough in Dec....never can tell.
HMMMM.....Pastries....I'll ask around see what I can dig up.
cooking with all your senses.....
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cooking with all your senses.....
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post #16 of 21
I knew I could count on you, shroom! Thanks for all the tips. I will not be there on a weekend, so I won't make it to that farmer's market, but I may end up going back there sometime in the future, and I will print this thread.

The airfare is disgustingly inexpensive! I think the cab ride to and from the NY airport will exceed the price of the flight.
post #17 of 21
I'll second Bayona! If it's a nice night, there is a little courtyard in the back. Tony C's is the best. I have a friend ship it up to me between visits. I use it in everything:)
"At weddings, my Aunts would poke me in the ribs and cackle "You're next!". They stopped when I started doing the same to them at funerals." D. Barry
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"At weddings, my Aunts would poke me in the ribs and cackle "You're next!". They stopped when I started doing the same to them at funerals." D. Barry
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post #18 of 21
Our "hometown grocery" carries Tony chacere salt....Zatarans is the ONLY boil for crawfish and crabs, I use the liquid and reg. bags combined.
Andouille is something I have shipped if I'm out and am not making a trip south.
I love New Orleans!!!
cooking with all your senses.....
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cooking with all your senses.....
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post #19 of 21

Bayona

Oooooooooooooooh, YES! A couple of years ago, we had lunch there with some friends, and it was one of the best meals I've ever had in my life! I particularly remember a sandwich of smoked duck with cashew butter and some sort of jelly -- sounds bizarre but it was sublime! Also a very simply prepared yellowfish. And a red Sancerre, which was perfect with lunch. Susan Spicer was wonderfully gracious when I fawned all over her after the meal.

My first meal in NO was Redfish topped with Crabmeat at Antoine's, in the mid-1980s. Absolutely pure and simple, and divine. Very honest food, and the service was perfect (even to a single woman). I guess the best of NO restos really understand how to make a guest feel comfortable -- which is part of why we love them.
"Notorious stickler" -- The New York Times, January 4, 2004
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"Notorious stickler" -- The New York Times, January 4, 2004
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post #20 of 21
I too love Naw'Lins'. I got married at sunset on the Creole Queen. It was pretty romantic!! It was a dixie land jazz cruise with a creole buffet. 22 of my closest friends and relatives came down to share this with us. After we got married by the capt. We went to the dinning room for dinner. They had a Head table set up and everything. You have to remember that this is a dinner cruise for around 200 people. These 200 people on board were basically all of our guests. They even passed around a hat for a wedding gift. New Orleans is so mysical! Everyone is your friend there. I've never had a bettter time... dancing on the boat with people I didn't even know, yet they felt like family because they were sharing in this with us. The generosity of strangers is amazing... but I digress.

The next night we ate at Nola. Great experience! If you ever go, sit at the kitchen bar. You will be full before you even order! The chefs are right there and let you sample what ever they are cooking.

God I love that town... I could talk for hours about it.
Speed... I'm your brother, Dumb-***!!!
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Speed... I'm your brother, Dumb-***!!!
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post #21 of 21

you gotta love New Orleans!!!

I ate at all of the above places mentioned and I must say I agree with all of the comments, starting with Mothers, excellent I never had drumfish before and it is in my top 3 fish to eat now!! Two Sisters should be ashamed of their selves, what a waste, a previous poster had a smelly waiter, with nasty teeth, we had a smelly waitress with bad teeth?!?! Coincidence? I took ten clients there and I was completely embarressed!! Fortunently, one of the clients suggested the place, he said he goes there everytime he is in N.O.. Needless to say, he was the only one who enjoyed his meal. I forgot to mention that it took almost 4 hrs for 10 of us to eat, I do not mine the time, only if it worth the time. I made up for it the next night by going to Red Fish, its at the end of Bourbon st and when you go in you are in a different world. Awesome. The highlight of the excursion was trying to get my name on a wall at some side street cafe for eating 250 or more oysters over the course of a sitting. I didn't make it, if I remember correctly, I left with a 128 or so in my belly to go along with 20 or so Red stripes!!!
semi chef
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semi chef
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