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Sharpening a tourne

post #1 of 9
12/7/08 at 8:25pm
Thread Starter 
This one has me stumped... I look at my tourne, I look at my stones. Then I look at my tourne. Then back to my stones. How on Earth does this work?
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post #2 of 9
12/7/08 at 8:55pm
You need something with a smaller diameter than your knife. This usually means a diamond rod/file. Spyderco sharpmaker also does this sort of recurve.

For less money you can pick up some wet dry sandpaper. Lay the paper on a mouse pad and strop your knife. The mouse pad will conform to the shape of the knife, the wet dry sand paper sharpens it. As to grits, 400 and progressively higher.

You could also use a sharpening steel, but I actually hope you don't own of those.

Phil
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post #3 of 9
12/7/08 at 9:36pm
Thread Starter 
I have a 1000 grit idahone ceramic rod that I've been using on it to keep it moderately acceptable.

I'll try some sandpaper.
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post #4 of 9
12/7/08 at 9:41pm
Depending on the height of your stones, and the amount of radius in your tourne, sometimes you can use the edge of the stone. Better is a couple of "slip stones" with curved surfaces of appropriate radius; you can buy them from woodworking stores. Norton makes some decent ones. A tourne being what it is, you don't need an incredibly polished edge.

Or, you can use a sharpening rod (including diamond "hones," but personally I don't care for them except for sharpening inside serrations and for emergencies in places you can't get to a stone. Camping for instance, or on a construction site.

BDL
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post #5 of 9
12/8/08 at 3:32pm
Thread Starter 
I know that polsh isn't important but I still feel the need to have it at least toothy sharp.
Thanks for the sugguestions maybe I'll snag a slip stone because while my shapton gs's are very thin, i still cant imagine getting the right angle/curvature.
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post #6 of 9
2/25/09 at 4:01pm
It was mentioned briefly before, but if your serious about keeping it sharp, then the spyderco is worth look. I have one just as one more tool in the drawer to keep my knives sharp. It's really good with tourne and serrated edges.
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post #7 of 9
2/25/09 at 4:10pm
If you've already got a round ceramic honing rod try wrapping the rod with a sheet of coarse sandpaper. I suggest pinching the excess at the same time as holding the rod. Now make your passes until you've raised a burr and then switch hands. When you've created a burr from the opposite side you remove the sandpaper and hone the edge to 1k using the ceramic rod. This will be a slightly ugly edge but a very serviceable sharp one that should be easily maintained on your ceramic rod until next time.

*Notes...

Don't allow the tip to fall or roll off the rod as this will straighten the tip to a non-correct tourne form.

If pinching the sandpaper and holding the rod is too awkward (or maybe even dangerous) for you then try using one of those large black metal paper clip binder thingies. These thing will hold the paper very taught and allow you to concentrate on angle control and movement rather than not cutting yourself. :)
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post #8 of 9
2/28/09 at 3:51pm
Sandpaper on any suitable round thing would work, too. I use a moderately fine round diamond file; before I had it, I chucked a piece of dowel into a drill press, heated it with a heat gun (use a hair dryer, if you don't have one) and coated it with chromium oxide (green) honing compound. That works fine, though you have to use trailing strokes or you'll cut the wood.
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post #9 of 9
3/4/09 at 4:51pm
I have an old Sabatier (God bless 'em) tourne. I just use a ceramic steel for maintenance and it keeps a very serviceable edge on it. When the edge needs sharpening I use a very fine diamond steel and then back to the ceramic. Works just fine.
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