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The food from Morocco, I need some help

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
Hi guys and gals :)

Ok...I could use a little bit of help. I have searched online but I would like some real world experience when it comes to the foods from Morocco.

I'm looking for some full flavor traditional Moroccan foods. I'm looking for something that would go well cooked outside (gas grill, weber grill, smoker or boil). I'm thinking something that is pork, chicken or shrimp. I want to serve something for my daughters birthday party, so there will be several different taste buds present at the party so I'm thinking I'll shy away from lamb (although I would like to read any suggestions you have). Beef isn't out of the question either...but I'm working the day before, which means I won't have time to break down a piece of beef low -n- slow in any cooker (but I may be wrong).

If you've got a stellar recipe/idea that captures the flavors of Morocco I would love to hear it.

post #2 of 20
Dan, a couple of things to consider.

First off, despite what several of the TV chefs have described as authentic Moroccan, keep in mind that Morocco is, at base, a Muslim country. Which means that both pork and alcohol are out.

Next, although there have been several books published since, Paula Wolfert's Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco remains the seminal work on the subject. I would highly recommend it.

A more modern book, one I often use, is Fiona Dunlop's The North African Kitchen, which deals with the entire Maghreb, not just Morocco.

Moroccan food has many things in common with the rest of North Africa, but, in many ways is unique. The Turkish influence ends at the Moroccan border, for instance, and there is more Arab influence because of the Moorish influx from Spain. Away from the cities there is a deep Berber influence on the food.

Lamb and chicken are the primary proteins, followed by fish & seafood, and, to a lesser degree, beef. A major cooking style is the tagine, which basically is a braising technique. "Tagine" describes both the dish, and the vessel it's prepared in.

Essentially, a tagine is a two-piece cooking vessel; a bowl-like base and a conical lid. As the food is slow cooked (traditional over charcoal in a special "oven"), liquid condenses on the inside of the lid and rains back down on the food, keeping it moist.

Any braising system you're comfortable with can achieve the same end. But without the tagine it might prove difficult to do that in the backyard.

Cous cous, of course, is the mainstay grain. But it is not prepared the way we typically do it here. In Morocco, preparing cous cous is a long process, involving several steamings and fluffings, and is cooked in a special vessel called a couscouserie that fits over another pot. Steam from whatever is being cooking in that pot wafts up into the couscouserie to cook the grain.

Moroccan food ranges from bland to very spicy. There are two spice blends used heavily, and which provide the signature flavors of the country: ras el hanout, which can have as many as 30 ingredients, and harrisa, which is a hot chili paste. Both ras el hanout and harrisa are available commercially, or you can just mix up your own. I'll be happy to provide recipes if you want. Another ingredient essential to authentic Moroccan food is preserved lemon. Here, again, you can buy these canned and jarred, or you can make your own.

Mint tea is the most common beverage.

If I had to pick one dish that would both typify Morocco and be easy to make, it would be lemon chicken. Every housewife and restaurant has a version of this dish. Here is one example, which you should be able to cook outside:

Lemon Chicken & Olives

1 large chicken (3-4 lbs) divided into 8 pieces
2 large onions, peeled and finely chopped
3-4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
Bunch cilantro, finely chopped
Bunch flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp black pepper
Salt to taste
Juice of 2 lemons
3/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 cups water
5-6 oz pitted olives
1 preserved lemon, thinly sliced, for garnish (can be ommited)

Combine the onion, garlic, have the cilantro and parsley, the spices, salt, half the lemon juice and the olive oil. Dilute with the water to make a sauce.

Rub the chicken with some of the sauce on all sides and put in a large cooking pan. Pour the rest of the sauce arund the chicken, cover, and simmer over medium heat for 35-40 minutes, turning occasionally and adding more water if needed. Add the remaining cilantro and parsley and pour over the remaining lemon juice. Add the olives and let simmer for a few more minutes to thicken the sauce and let the olives warm through.

Arrange the chicken on a serving dish and garnish with slices of preserved lemon.

Many lemon chicken recipes actually have the olives cooked with the chicken. However, because this often turns the olives bitter, adding them at the end makes more sense.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks so much for your post KYHeirloomer. It gives me a good insight and direction in which to head.

I have made a recipe that is very similar to the lemon chicken and olives that you posted. The flavors were really a nice match...a complex melding of flavors that sit well with the other ingredients used, I like it alot! Thanks for the tip on cooking with olives too.

Thanks for bringing the point out about both the alcohol and pork when cooking any Muslim region, it's actually a bit embarrassing that I overlooked this fact. The pork would certainly be an unconventional matching, but the flavors do seem like they'd coincide so nicely.

I will certainly look into cooking some more conventional preparations, with lamb etc. But for this party I think I'll be best served by trying to capture the flavors of Morocco. I'll certainly be looking into the Tagine method of cooking some more. As well as the correct method of cooking the Cous cous. I've really never even thought of alternate preparations or correct preparations for Cous cous. Again, my oversight...thanks for pointing it out.

I love the inclusion of Moroccan tea. I have an Italian grocery store near me that has pretty good ethnic sections for all countries. I'll see what my options are. I've also got both mint and wormwood in my yard...so I'll investigate that a little too.

Thanks again for your post, it really pointed me in a good direction of making the distinction between tradition and adaptations.

I believe I have all the basic (whole) ingredients to make a basic ras el hanout, I would like to hear anything you can offer on the matter. Well almost anything...I doubt I'll be able to find any Spanish fly to add, although they do look similar to our common emerald ash borer ;)

:D dan
post #4 of 20
>I doubt I'll be able to find any Spanish fly to add,<

That's just one of the aphrodisiacs in traditional ras el hanout, Dan. Plus several rather toxic ingredients as well, such as belladonna (deadly nightshade) . Best to go with a simplified mix. ;)

If you want a very simple version, Jessica Harris has, in her The Africa Cookbook, one she calls "Moroccan Spice Mixture":

1 1/2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tbls cumin seeds
1/2 tbls caraway seeds
3 tbls dried mint leaves
3 inch stick cinnamon

Before crushing together (prefereably with a mortar & pestle, but a spice grinder works) I always toast any seeds. In this recipe that would include the coriander, cumin, and caraway.

Although this mixture does have the basic tastes of Moroccan food, I didn't find it to be particularly flavorsome. So I came up with my own variation, which is what I mostly use:

Ras el Hanout #1

2 tbls allspice berries
2 tbls black peppercorns
2 tsp nutmeg
10 cardamom pods
1 1/2 tsp coriander seed
1 tbls cumin seed
2 1/2 tbls dried gingerroot
1 stick cinnamon
5 rosebuds
1 clove
2-3 japones chilies
2 tbls dried mint

A friend of mine in Georgia came up with a slightly different version:

Ras El Hanout #2

1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp cloves
1 tsp anise seed
1 tsp nigella seed
1 tsp allspice berries
1 tsp cardamon seed
2 tsp grond turmeric
2 tsp corriander seed
2 pieces mace
2 pieces cinnamon bark
2 tsp dried mint
1 dried red chile
1 tsp lavender
6 dried rosebuds, broken up

For harissa I use the formula in Fiona Dunlap's book:


1 tbls coriander seed
1 tbls caraway seed
2 tsp cumin seed
9 oz fresh red chilies, roughly chopped
Cloves from 1 head garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbls dried mint
1/2 bunch fresh cilantro
1 tbls salt
2-3 tsls olive oil

Toast the seeds quickly in a saucepan without any oil for about 2 minutes until you can smell the aromas. Pound them into a powder using a pestle and mortar. Blend this with the remaining ingredients in a food processor, adding enough olive oil to make a stiff paste. Put in a sterilizaed jar, pouring a thin layer of olive oil over the surface to prevent it from drying out, then store in the refrigerator.

Cheftalk member Suvir Saran (who happens to own the only non-Japanese Asian restaurant in New York with a Michelin star) has a rather different recipe in his American Masala. According to Suvir, it's a much-tinkered with recipe he orginally obtained from the owner of Moustache, a Middle Eastern restaurant:

Spicy Harissa

8 garlic cloves, unpeeled
4 oz dried red chiles
1 tbls coriander seed
1 1/2 tsp cumin seed
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp kosher salt.

Preheat your broiler to high. Place the garlic on a baking sheet and roast until all of its sides are deep brown, turning often, about 10-15 minutes. Remove the garlic from the oven. Once cool, peel and set aside.

Place the chiles, coriander seeds and cumin seeds in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and toast for 5 minutes (turn your hood fan on if you are sensitive to chiles; they get smoky). Add the water and cook for 2 minutes. Cover, turn off the heat, and let the chiles soak for 20 minutes.

Strain the chiles and place them in a food processor with the peeled garlic, oil, and salt. Puree until well blended and smooth. Transfer to a covered plastic container. As long as you replenish the olive oil occasionally so that thee is always a thin layer on top, Harissa will keep for many weeks, and even months.

For the tea, I just use oolong with slightly bruised fresh mint added right to the water as the tea steeps.

Keep in mind that the heart and soul of tagines and tagine-style dishes is the wonderful broths and sauces they produce. So you want a good sopping bread to serve with them. One of my favorites is the Moroccan Anise Bread, from Flatbreads & Flavors. It's in the current group of book reviews, and you can link to the recipe there.

Oranges should certainly be part of your part menu, no matter what you decide. They aren't the only fruit found in the Maghreb but it sometimes seems so. One of my favorite uses is in an:

Orange & Mint Salad

6 blood oranges, if available. If not, substitute other oranges (or even tangerines or clementines.
2-3 tsp orange blossom water
2 tbls orange peel cut into fine matchsticks
3 tbls superfine sugar
About 3/4 cup water
Leaves from a bunch of fresh mint, cut in a fine chiffonade
3 oz blanched almonds as garnish

Traditionally, the oranges would be peeled and thinly sliced. I prefer cutting them into supremes because it makes a prettier presentation, IMO. In either case, prep the oranges, arrange in a bowl, and sprinklw with the orange blossom water.

Meanwhile, mix together the remaining ingredients in a small pan and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Pour the sauce over the oranges and decorate with the almonds.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
post #5 of 20
Just to save you the trouble, Dan, here the flatbread recipe:

They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 

This is so helpful. Thank you
post #7 of 20
Cheers for the flatbread recipe KYH I've been searching for ages. My books dont have them and internet isnt coming up trumps either.

I wouldnt be giving up on lamb gonefishin, It's the goat alternative and kebabs can be fabulous. Or a bulgar wheat, lamb and chickpeas, done like a pilaf,

Go vege

A gratin of aubergines, courgettes and peppers would suit. Stuffed peppers

What about Koftas. You dont need lamb, you can make them with beef. Basiclly spicy meatballs, In a sauce or on a skewer. Just make a tahini sauce to go with.

Theres the typical meze of humus, cacik, chorizo in red wine, baba ganoush ( fabulous aubergine dip. Olives, Feta salad and fried Halumi cheese. Fatoush ( soft salad i tried but dont know the recipe)

If you dont have it, get some sumac... You can sprinkle it on pretty much anything to give that morrocan oomph. Slightly citrus and amazing on a salad.

Have plenty of greek yogurt. It lends itself to so many dishes

Could you get someone to set you up with an authentic gyros for the occasion. With flat breads, salads, and sauces on the side. That way you'd have an amazing meat feast with only sides to worry about??
"If we're not supposed to eat animals, why are they made of meat?" Jo Brand
"If we're not supposed to eat animals, why are they made of meat?" Jo Brand
post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks BugHut!

I haven't given up on lamb, I like it. I like it alot :) But I'm not going to consider cooking it for my daughters birthday party. I'm considering the cost for lamb and the fact that not all the guests would eat it.

I didn't know that the sumac tree had any culinary uses. We've got them all over around here. I'll have to wait until they start bearing their fruit though.

Baba ghanoush would go perfect with everything, plus I have a few varieties of home grown garlic I harvested too. Yum!

post #9 of 20
Dan, the seeds from sumac bushes have an acidic, lemon-like flavor. In fact, Native Americans and colonists used to make a lemonade-like drink from it.

The sumac in your part of the world is the staghorn sumac, and it's perfectly ok to use it. I used to gather it along the railroad rights of ways when I lived northwest of you.

Sumac is very big in Mid-Eastern cooking, perhaps even more so that the spice mix called Za'taar, which includes it. Sumac is usually ground into a powder. It takes about 8 seedheads (that is, the bunch of dry, red "berries" that are the fruit of the sumac) to make about a cup of berries.

But a differentiation needs to be made. Almost all the dishes Bughut suggests, while certainly tasty, belong to what I'd call Eastern Med culinary traditions. These are the cuisines that are primarily influenced by Turkish and Persian inputs.

As you cross the Maghreb moving westwards, those traditions progressively fade out, until reaching the Moroccan border, where they disappear altogether, to be replaced by Moorish (and other Arab) and Berber influences. Turkish influences are fairly strong in Tunisia and Algeria, but, because of the strong French influence there, it's shows up more as an interesting fusion.

I'm not surprised at the confusion. More and more, it seems, cooking personalities want to call everthing from Spain to Israel to Morocco "Mideastern." And then they mix diverse culinary traditions, helter skelter, as if everything cooked around the Med comes out of the same pot.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
post #10 of 20
Bughut, Morocan bread really pushes the concept of "flatbread." The Anise Bread, for instance, forms a loaf 2-3 inches high.

The most basic Moroccan flatbread is called Khoubz. The recipe is similar, only it lacks the flavoring of the anise seed. Here's a version from Fiona Dunlap:

9 oz bread flour
9 oz whole wheat flour
Large pinch salt
1 heaping tbls active dry yeast, proofed in a little warm water
1 cup water
1 tsp sesame seeds (optional)

In a large bowl mix together the flour and salt. Gradually add the yeast mixture and most of the water to form a sticky dough. Knead vigorously on an oiled work surface for about 15 minutes, until elastic and smooth. Work the sesame seeds into the dough, if desired.

Make two large balls, roll them out, then flatten to 1/2 inch thick. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rise 1 hour in a warm place. Preheat the oven to 375F (190C).

Prick each round of dough with a fork and bake in the preheated oven for 20-30 minutes.

I have not made this recipe, and, frankly, I'm a little concerned about the amount of yeast. So if you make it, please let us know how it turns out.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
post #11 of 20
Thats the one i was looking for KYH thanks a whole lot.

I get where you're coming from with the Eastern med reference. I have Lebanese, Greek, Turkish and Medditeranian books, but I do tend to clump them together, depending on what ingredients i've got to cook with Still they do all go wonderfully as a meze style meal and no-one we've ever had for dinner would notice my faux pas hopefully.

When in Dubai, I picked up 2 bags of rasa al hanout 1 was for fish. Didnt like it attal Do you know what they put in it?
"If we're not supposed to eat animals, why are they made of meat?" Jo Brand
"If we're not supposed to eat animals, why are they made of meat?" Jo Brand
post #12 of 20
There's so much overlap with eastern Med foods that I, for one, have little problems grouping them together.

Indeed, other than differences of pronounciation (and the expected recipe-to-recipe modifications), you could easily travel from Greece, through the Mid-East, and on to Turkey, etc. and think you were sharing a single cuisine---a modified amalgum of Arab, Persian, and Turkish.

But once you head to the Maghreb, things change radically, because the Turkish influence runs out fairly quickly, and the Persian doesn't reach at all. So, whereas one could easily confuse, say, much Greek and Lebanese food, the same couldn't be said about Lebanese and Moroccan.

But, as you say, combining them all in a meze type meal works. So what does it matter what you call it.

>I picked up 2 bags of rasa al hanout 1 was for fish. <

There's just no telling. Rasa al hanout would be the Arab spelling and pronounciation. And it's likely the the list of ingredients is different. In Morocco, traditional ras el hanout contained as many as 35 ingredients, depending what part of the country you were in. And even in the same location, no two cooks were likely to have the same ingredients and proportions.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
post #13 of 20
Count me among those who suggest kebab and the Moroccan version of mezze.

You could do two or three kebabs. Perhaps beef koufta, chicken kebab and/or shrimp kebab. You'll find lots of koufta and Moroccan chicken kebab recipes; or if you want, I'll write a couple of recipes. You can make the shrimp kebab in a simpler, but similar marinade as chicken. Just marinade the shrimp in a mix of oil, lemon juice, garlic, and hot, smoked paprika.

One of the keys to kebab cookery is a slow, mature, charcoal fire. When the fire is still young and hot, grill eggplant, zucchini, onions, and tomatoes until they're soft. Let them cool, then chop them up, add some very good olive oil, minced garlic, capers, lemond juice and plenty of parsley.

Another key to kebabs -- koufta at least -- is adequate fat. 80/20 is de minimis for fat content. 75/25 is perfect; or you could even use 70/30. Mix the meat well with Moroccan seasonings including mint, and plenty of finely minced onion. Don't be afraid to overhandle the meat. In fact, by all means overhandle it. Roll it in long cigar shapes, the more slender the better. At the last minute thread damp skewers through the koufta kebabs. Then grill over that slow, mature fire we were just talking about until quite well done.

Serve the koufta and chicken kebabs and the warm vegetable salad with one or two other Moroccan salads (a bean salad perhaps, and KY's orange salad for sure) and khoubz flat bread.

post #14 of 20
thanks KYHeirloomer.
post #15 of 20
So how do things change in the Maghereb?
"If we're not supposed to eat animals, why are they made of meat?" Jo Brand
"If we're not supposed to eat animals, why are they made of meat?" Jo Brand
post #16 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks again to everyone who responded. I really ended up doing a hodgepodge of different foods. But I knew that going into this. It was for my daughters 7th birthday, so I had to cook for a small number of children along with a variety of adults.

When I was shopping for groceries I was walking past the grapes and I noticed they had some local concord grapes in. After trying one I new I would have to fit these in somehow. I ended up doing a small cheese platter. I also had some Baba ghanoush out as well.

I ended up smoking a pork shoulder with the Ras el Hanout #1. I really like the mix flavors when tasting it after I (finally) got it ground up. Nice and aromatic, pleasing. I would have left it alone if I was cooking beef or lamb, but I ended up adding some sugar to the portion I was adding to the pork shoulder. Everyone loved the flavors...especially my 7 year old. I thought she dropped her plate on the floor because her plate was emptied so fast. She came back with three large heaping of shoulder on her plate. I looked and asked her if she thought she was going to eat all of that. She replied that she really liked this shoulder. I smiled and laughed. Of course the funny thing is...is that she's not an easy audience. If something is off or amiss she'll usually say something.

Among a few other things I did make the orange & mint salad, as well as the tea.

Thanks so much for the suggestions. I do plan on making a few attempts at a more traditional Moroccan meal for my family some night.

post #17 of 20
Thread Starter 
Ok, now that the birthday party is over I can get down to some more traditional Moroccan meals. With all the good advice in this thread I now have a really good direction to head toward in discovering the foods of Morocco. I plan to head to the library and check out a few books on the subject as well.

I do have a few questions though. I plan to order a tangine in the future, but I don't have one right now. Could I use a dome shaped terra cotta pot used for roasting whole chicken? I know it doesn't have the same conical top, but I'm thinking it may produce similar results.

Also, when making Cous cous, what do I need to know when making it in a more traditional method? I tried to look online but couldn't come up with anything much different than the instant method :confused:

post #18 of 20
Dan, your domed terra cotta pot should work just fine. A tagine is basically a braise. So keep it low and slow and you're good to go.

When you decide to invest in a tagine or three there are several things to consider. The most important is whether or not you intend cooking on top of the range or not. If so you either have to go with an unglazed tagine, or, if you prefer the glazed, then you need a heat diffuser.

By and large, glazed tagines, particularly those highly decorated ones, are used more as serving dishes than as cooking vessels. Besides which, the unglazed, over time, developes a patina and flavor enhancer all by itself, so makes better tasting food.

There are also porcelain-coated cast iron tagines on the market. I have no experience with them, and don't know as I really understand the point. A similar Dutch-oven would pretty much do the same job.

Making cous couse the traditional method is a complex operation that would take far too much typing for me to go into. But the books you find should detail the process.

One cautionary note: Couscouseries are, for some unfathomable reason, incredibly expensive in the U.S. There's no explanation for it; they're essentially tin chimney's with a colander-like screen in the bottom.

Paula Wolfert, in her new Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking, suggests that a clay colander works just as well. Certainly it's a more cost-effective way to go.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
post #19 of 20
Thread Starter 
Well, I've been trying some braised beef recipes and the flavors really shine. It's soooo good! I've yet to try a recipe with lamb, but I certainly will.

I was surprised that the kids like it so much. They usually do eat a wide variety of foods, but none of them like things too spicy. Now this isn't spicy, as in hot at all...but it does have alot going on. I was pleasantly surprised by their reactions :)

post #20 of 20
Glad to hear the kids are liking it, Dan. That's always the big test of anything smacking of the exotic.

In my experience, most of the time when people say "I don't like spicy food," it's because they connote "spicy" with "hot." That's unfortunate, because there's a world of bold flavors out there that have little to do with heat and lots to do with flavor.

My advice would be that as you move more into North African food, go easy with the harrisa. That's where you can get into trouble, heat wise. And, as with most cuisines that trend towards the hot, balance the main dish with sweets and dairy so as to take the sting out.

But all in all, it sounds like you're on the right track.

One other thing to consider. Many times, lamb and chicken can substitute for each other in a tagine. So you might want to experiment with chicken, first, to see how the flavors are met by your crew. Then you can move on and try the same dish with lamb. Among other things, they'll find it fun to compare and contrast. And, because chicken is more familiar, they'll be more willing to give it a try the first time.

Here's an example:

Lamb Tagine With Figs and Apricots

2-2 1/2 lbs boned shoulder of lamb in large chunks (substitute a chicken, broken down)
1 large onion, diced
1 cinnamon stick, roughly broken
2 tsp black pepper
1 tbls ground ginger
1 tsp saffron
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp sweet paprika
3 tbls olive oil

for the fruit mixture:

9 oz dried figs
5 oz dried apricots
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tbls skuper fine sugar
1 tbls orange-blossom water
3/4-1 cup water

Put all the meat dish ingredients in a tagine or other wide, deep pan with a cover (your domed terra cotta pot should be ideal). Almost cover the ingredients with the water. Put the lid on, bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer gently 1-1 1/2 hours, checking the moisture level occasionally.

Meanwhile, steam the figs and apricots about 15 minutes until soft and moist. Put in a saucepan with the rest of the ingredients and simmer over low heat half an hour. If the mixture gets too dry add more water or some of the liquid from the tagine.

When the lamb or chicken is cooked through, remove the lid. Without removing the meat, simmer another ten minutes or so to reduce the sauce. Transfer to a serving dish, spoon the sauce over it, and surround with the fruit mixture.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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