More than 40 years ago, when I lived in Boston, friends insisted on taking me to Durgan Park to experience the trained rudeness of the staff.
I didn't understand the appeal then, and I understand it even less now. If I want rudeness I can just eat at my sister's house, and not have to pay for the "honor."
You can justify it all you want by the quality of the food, as the author of that article tries. But, the fact is, there are fine restaurants all over the world that treat their guests well and provide great eating.
Don't know how it is today, btw, but based on my Durgan Park trip back in the day, the food wasn't all that good to begin with. Overpriced, yes. Worth going out of my way for? Not hardly.
The amusing thing to me is that if you judge by previous threads here, one of the things we, as a group, most hate is rude FOH staff. Yet we're now discussing how much fun it can be to be treated that way.
Not me. I don't like it when it's unintentional, and like it even less when it's on purpose.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling