In another thread I mentioned the abject failure of a flattening system to which I had such initial hopes. And an investment.
I began thinking about all of the knives, the tools, the "systems" and pastes I've purchased, and I've been pretty lucky. But I have failed on occasion. For the purposes of the overall theme of this forum section, here are the failures seen relating to kitchen knives.
First, as discussed, quality kitchen knives need quality edges. In that pursuit, I bought this cast iron flattening fixture for my quality stones. I now use it as a door stop, and I'll make you a deal, cheap!
Second, that would be chromium oxide paste. What an expensive disaster! Not only does it turn everything and everybody into a geasy rendition of Margaret Hamilton's make-up area, but it's mundane at best for sharpening knives. There are better pastes and compounds on the shelf at your local Napa automotive dealer. (Edit: pumice made from nagura is terrific.)
Oh, and let's not forget sandpaper. I have a sneaking suspicion where this myth started, but that ire is best saved for another day. Contrary to what is bandied about on the 'net, sandpaper is only good for camp axes and railroad spikes. Yes, you might need a more 'toothy' edge for cubing semi-thawed beef, especially steaks for making stews. However, I've never seen an 800 year old Japanese mural of a samurai holding sandpaper and a mouse-pad. Perfect slicing needs perfect edges.
As long as I'm on the soapbox, we might as well add fluted steels. I cannot think of any knife related device more misunderstood, misused and ultimately worthless as a fluted steel. A steel is to lightly repair rolled edges by periodic use--it's not a sharpening device. And taking a poorly made and rough dowel of suspect steel down a mirror edge is the height of folly. My steel is over two feet long, of a larger diameter and mirror polished. I use it seldom.
I have a piece of thick felt. It's not a failure in the true sense. It simply doesn't work or do anything, pro or con. It came with a sharpening system and now languishes in the shipping wrapper.
These are failures because they did not meet the goal needed, that being sharp knives. In a very odd way, nothing seems to work any better than things used 800 years ago. Waterstones. Paste (pumice). Burnishing brass.
To demonstrate this observation, a few months ago I bought a fixture to aid in sharpening high-end wood chisels--the kind used in making precise cuts, as applied in cabinet making. It works the best when paired with Japanese waterstones.
I keep coming back to square one in my study of making edges. The best way to make a keen edge is never to buy a whizbang prop or fad procedure, but to borrow a stone from a samurai's polisher. I have never failed using that ideal.
I began thinking about all of the knives, the tools, the "systems" and pastes I've purchased, and I've been pretty lucky. But I have failed on occasion. For the purposes of the overall theme of this forum section, here are the failures seen relating to kitchen knives.
First, as discussed, quality kitchen knives need quality edges. In that pursuit, I bought this cast iron flattening fixture for my quality stones. I now use it as a door stop, and I'll make you a deal, cheap!
Second, that would be chromium oxide paste. What an expensive disaster! Not only does it turn everything and everybody into a geasy rendition of Margaret Hamilton's make-up area, but it's mundane at best for sharpening knives. There are better pastes and compounds on the shelf at your local Napa automotive dealer. (Edit: pumice made from nagura is terrific.)
Oh, and let's not forget sandpaper. I have a sneaking suspicion where this myth started, but that ire is best saved for another day. Contrary to what is bandied about on the 'net, sandpaper is only good for camp axes and railroad spikes. Yes, you might need a more 'toothy' edge for cubing semi-thawed beef, especially steaks for making stews. However, I've never seen an 800 year old Japanese mural of a samurai holding sandpaper and a mouse-pad. Perfect slicing needs perfect edges.
As long as I'm on the soapbox, we might as well add fluted steels. I cannot think of any knife related device more misunderstood, misused and ultimately worthless as a fluted steel. A steel is to lightly repair rolled edges by periodic use--it's not a sharpening device. And taking a poorly made and rough dowel of suspect steel down a mirror edge is the height of folly. My steel is over two feet long, of a larger diameter and mirror polished. I use it seldom.
I have a piece of thick felt. It's not a failure in the true sense. It simply doesn't work or do anything, pro or con. It came with a sharpening system and now languishes in the shipping wrapper.
These are failures because they did not meet the goal needed, that being sharp knives. In a very odd way, nothing seems to work any better than things used 800 years ago. Waterstones. Paste (pumice). Burnishing brass.
To demonstrate this observation, a few months ago I bought a fixture to aid in sharpening high-end wood chisels--the kind used in making precise cuts, as applied in cabinet making. It works the best when paired with Japanese waterstones.
I keep coming back to square one in my study of making edges. The best way to make a keen edge is never to buy a whizbang prop or fad procedure, but to borrow a stone from a samurai's polisher. I have never failed using that ideal.







