My favorite is probably Kichisen, Kyoto, but the next time we're there the wife and I are going to try a full-on kaiseki meal at Kikunoi and it might nudge into top. There was this amazing restaurant in San Sano, Tuscany, but looking back it was more about being on honeymoon in a tiny village at the top of a mountain in Tuscany, during wild boar season, although it was pretty great. (If you're in San Sano, there is only one real restaurant, so the name is unimportant....)
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