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Rosemary grown from clipping - Page 2

post #31 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by DC Sunshine View Post

rofl Charron - settle down    It was good there - very much a medittereanean (sp?) food based culture based on the community, well 20 years ago.  But the Almond trees have long since gone - the grapevines do remain (I believe they are "heritage listed" vines so cannot be torn down for housing), on my last visit home 2 years ago anyway. (BTW I didn't spend the first 30 years of my life camped on a median strip - I just re-read that and it looked silly.)

Planted some garlic cloves which where too small for cooking (to me)- you know, the inner ones which cling to the big ones you want so you end up tossing the clingers - , and they are sprouting beautifully along with the rosemary.  Wil leave them a good 9-12 motnhs before harvesting some.  When I've done that before they've come up as single clove/bulbs, very tasty, just different from the norm.  Heaps of moisture in them too.  I've been told I need to leave them longer than the 3-4 months I gave them last time to end up with the multi-cloved bulbs.

What I would also like to do is plant ginger - I love the stuff.  Will try and look up how to.

Anyone here had success with it?  Long process as far as what I have found out so far....

Hey, also planted mange tout (sweet/snow peas) from packaged seed, they have gone crazy out of control.  Ok yes, to translate,  they are growing very well, I must train them up onto a trellis.  It has taken only 3 weeks to get them to have a lot of greenery and the mange tout are about half size now.  Very tempted to try some, but will be patient and let them mature a touch more.

 So you wanna grow some gingah ayh mate (I have to work on that accent)

 Well, ginger is similar to ginseng as they are both arboreal plants (they both love shade) and both seem to grow in similar areas. 
I have a friend in Saskatchewan who diversified his crops to include ginseng and I helped him with his first planting seven years ago last fall and subsequently, helped him harvest his first crop last fall. 

 What I can tell you is that they like shade and well composted, rich soil which drains well. They hate direct sun, being watterlogged, and frost.

 I have grown ginger in containers at home and all I ever do is buy some rhizomes (ginger root) at my local supermarket that are nice and fresh with lots of 'eyes' just like a potato has so to speak.  The fresher, the better and springtime is best as it will trigger active growth in the rhizomes...err ginger root.

 Break the thumbs into pieces that contain at least three eyes (this works for me) just like pieces of seed potato and plant about 4" below the surface of the soil, eyes facing up. 

I have found that if you have the conditions right you can pretty well ignore them for the next year until harvest time.
"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
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"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
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post #32 of 44
>I have found that if you have the conditions right you can pretty well ignore them for the next year until harvest time.<

What happens then? Do you get pretty good sized roots after just a year?

Ginsang is native to Kentucky, and quite a few old-timers supplement their income wild crafting it. It all gets shipped to Asia.

Coming down through BC, from Alaska, we passed one of the largest commercial operations in North America. Didn't even know what it was, at first---mile after mile of shade cloth supported on poles. Finally reached the gate to the farm, where we learned what was being grown. Then passed several more miles of beds.

My only regret is that we didn't have time to stop and tour the place.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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post #33 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by KYHeirloomer View Post

>I have found that if you have the conditions right you can pretty well ignore them for the next year until harvest time.<

What happens then? Do you get pretty good sized roots after just a year?

Ginsang is native to Kentucky, and quite a few old-timers supplement their income wild crafting it. It all gets shipped to Asia.

Coming down through BC, from Alaska, we passed one of the largest commercial operations in North America. Didn't even know what it was, at first---mile after mile of shade cloth supported on poles. Finally reached the gate to the farm, where we learned what was being grown. Then passed several more miles of beds.

My only regret is that we didn't have time to stop and tour the place.
 

Unless you have a freezing concern in the area, you can leave it as a perennial in your garden.  After a couple few years you can just have a continual supply of ginger root. 

 If you live in an area where freezing is a concern, you can cover with straw.  Usually 6" deep and the depth is important,  Too much and the rhizomes rot, too little and the rhizomes freeze.  This is what is done every fall at my friends farm for ginseng and the same for ginger.
"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
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"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
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post #34 of 44
Thread Starter 
Hey - thanks for all the info.  Not much worry about freezing or permafrost  so I'll mark out a spot and come back and see what's happened in a year.  If it does get really cold (doubtful) I'll go the straw trick.  May go for a big pot as we rent, so no chance of long term plots - drats.

KYH - that reminds me of the first time I saw tobacco being grown. Really tall poles linked by horizontal poles, all covered with shade cloth.  It must have just been harvested (this is in the middle of Tasmania) and there were the odd one or two long brown leaves left over hanging from the uprights. Thought to myself what the heck is that - found the answer later.  It sticks in my mind as an interesting memory.

Oh also poppies for making medicine are widely grown there, but in remote areas well fenced off, for the obvious reasons.

P.S. Fr33mason - Oi rekun ewe almost got it there ayh.  Goodonya  cobber
 Don't handicap your children by making their lives easy.
Robert A. Heinlein

 
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 Don't handicap your children by making their lives easy.
Robert A. Heinlein

 
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post #35 of 44
Hey guys, pardon me to barge in on this discussion. Someone gave me 3 fresh rosemary clippings 2 days ago. I scraped the leaves from the bottom 2-3 inches and placed them in a glass of water.

The goal is to plant them outdoor (I'm in Southern California where we're having a mild-warm weather pretty much year round).

- Should I change the water every other day or so in my glass? 

- How long should the roots be before I plant it outside? 

- Do I really need potting soil etc...? I'd rather avoid a trip to the store if I can avoid it.

Thanks!!
post #36 of 44
FF, rooting in water works best if the bottom stems are cut on a sharp angle. So if you haven't done that, pull the cuttings and do so.

Don't be surprised if the remaining leaves wilt and fall off. That's not a problem. In fact, most of the time, when starting cuttings, we remove all the leaves so that the plant energy goes into root production.

There's no need to change the water. Just make sure there's always some in there. Roots will only appear where the stem is kept constantly moist.

The downside to starting merely in water is that there's a greater chance of rot. Ideally, you'll have each of the cuttings in its own glass, to prevent cross contamination if that happens.

Once roots have developed, wait for new growth to appear before transplanting. And you'll more than likely have to harden-off the plants, because the sudden heat & sunlight can harm them.

Just for future reference, here's how I start seedlings from cuttings.

1. Cut bottom of stem at a sharp angle. Remove any foliage.
2. Wet the stem. Dip into rooting hormone powder.
3. Push stem into moist seed-starting media.
4. Wait for roots to develop.
5. Transplant or pot as appropriate.

To anticipate your next question: How do you know what the roots have developed? Answer: New growth will appear.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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post #37 of 44
DC, what you describe sounds more like curing the tobacco than growing it.

When tobacco was a big crop in Connecticut they would cure it outdoors that way. In the south, where tobacco was king, it was mostly cured in tobacco barns.
They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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post #38 of 44
Great, thanks a lot KYH. I'll remove foliage, put in independent glasses and cut bottom at a sharp angle.
post #39 of 44
Try and cut the stem under water with a clean razor blade.

 This will help prevent an embolisim within the stems which is a major reason why cuttings fail from the start.
"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
Reply
"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
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post #40 of 44

OK guys, so 2 out of my three clippings now have a thin, double white root about midway through the underwater part of the stem. The roots are bout 1 1/2 inch long now.

 

Is it ready to be planted in my backyard? Should I pick the sunniest spot? Lots of water at first? Any other idea?

 

Thanks so much, I'm really excited about this, it's the first time I plant something myself, and I already have plans for more!

post #41 of 44

Allow for a few more roots to develop.  I would recommend to first plant in a 2" or 4" pot with a soiless seedling starter mix. The mix has fertilizer that promotes rapid and strong root growth.  I would say that you will want to allow two weeks minimum before transplanting outside to their permanent homes outside.

 

 When it comes time to plant, set it in the spot where you want it to grow.  A sunny location with well draining soil is optimal.

"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
Reply
"Ye can lead a man up to the university, but ye can't make him think."

Finley Peter Dunne
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post #42 of 44

Isn't it a great feeling when you see those roots developing, French Fries? Almost nothing in the world like it.

 

I agree with Fr33-Mason about letting more roots develop. After those first two they'll start popping with some expediency.

 

Not all soiless media contain fertilizer. Most are various mixes of peat, vermiculite, and perlite. Some have wetting agents as well. And some have both wetting agents and fertilizer.

 

If the media you select does not have fertilizer, then add some, diluting it to no more than 25% of the recommended concentration. That is, if the package says 1 tablespoon per quart of water, you want to mix 1 tablespoon into a gallon instead. The idea is to give the plant a boost, but not to overburden it.

 

After potting, I would wait until new grow showed before thinking about transplanting. Fr33-Mason's suggestion of waiting at least two weeks is good, because it will minimize root shock when you do transplant. But if you wait until there is new growth, you'll be sure that the plant has established itself.

They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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post #43 of 44

Great, thanks a lot guys!

post #44 of 44
Thread Starter 

Update on my 1 in 4 success rate in potting mix - it's going great guns  Hooray!

 Don't handicap your children by making their lives easy.
Robert A. Heinlein

 
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 Don't handicap your children by making their lives easy.
Robert A. Heinlein

 
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