1) Veal Stock (or Veal+Beef Stock)
Should stock have meat? Some say stock is bones only. Some say if you don't put any meat in there it won't have much flavor. What is your vote: meat or no meat?
Can go either way; but it's your call, not mine. Meat makes the whole process go a lot faster and does add some richness. If you have it, why not use it? Veal's so expensive though, one likes to work as economically as possible.
2) Jus de Veau
Do you start the process over, sauteeing some aromatic vegetables and veal meat in a pot, then covering with veal stock? Then what, simmer for a while? Reduce? What kind of veal meat is used?
3) Jus de Veau lié
Apparently this was used much more in the past, and the jus de veau was thickened with potato starch (at least in France). But it is my understanding that more and more chefs prefer to avoid thickeners of all kinds, and favor reduction instead to concentrate flavors while getting the desired texture. Is that correct? Do chefs nowadays use reduced Jus de veau, rather than Jus de veau lié?
I've only ever done this as a single process. Jus de veau lie is sort of the sophisticated version of espagnole for those who think espagnole is trop corse
(pardon my bad French).
The modern trend (since cuisines gourmand
anyway) is to forego either in favor of a straight reduction -- what Julia Child called a "semi-demi glace; but, more accurately could be called a less-reduced glace de viande. Either way, the trend for the past forty years or so is to forego the second round of aromatics, tomato stock and starch and just move on to the daughter sauces after reduction.
Personally, I have no brief against espagnole
as a sauce mere
, and do use it. It suits my culinary "ideology." I like to have one star on the plate, surrounded by several supporting players. I'd rather the star be the meat than the sauce, so I take advantage of the lesser clarity and intensity of an espagnole compared to a straight reduction.
I'm not sure there's really a difference between jus de veau and jus de veau lie; if there is, I'm not sure where in the process the first becomes the second. You'll have to find someone with more classical grounding. Cape Chef or Suzanne perhaps.
They're all valid culinary viewpoints. You have to understand what you're looking for in terms of flavor intensity, clarity, etc., then go after it.
Is Demi-glace simply reduced stock? Or reduced Jus de Veau? In the case where you use meat in your stock, can you make Demi-glace by just reducing the stock?
As a practical matter, most modern cooks working the high end of French and International Cuisines would go with a straight reduction. Classically, the answer is "no, demi comes from espagnole
. A demi
made from jus de veau lie
sort of splits the difference.Quote:
5) Making a pan sauce
When making a pan sauce, do you use Jus de Veau or Demi-glace? Is the difference just the amount of reduction?
If the "you" in the question is me personally, than I make pan reductions with beef stock (which I almost always have in hand), demi, or occasionally veal or brown stock, or espagnole
(but very rarely). I don't ever make jus de veau
, so it's never handy.
If "you" is generic, the answer isn't. That is, it depends on the individual. Jus de veau lie
is essentially the same animal as an espagnole
. Both need to be reduced, but only following the addition of straight stock, to become a demi. Although, as I said, you can go to what's currently called demi straight from stock via reduction.
In the contemporary high-end kitchen, a straight reduction is so much more popular than working through a sauce mere
, it's practically the only way.
Great questions by the way,