ChefTalk.com › ChefTalk Cooking Forums › Cooking Discussions › Food & Cooking › Questions on Overkill kitchen build
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Questions on Overkill kitchen build

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 

  Hey everyone first time poster and I have a bit of a question!

 

 I am re-modeling my house, an open air type home (with sliding glass doors all around it) and is just over 5k sqft, so I need a kitchen to match.

 

 Here's what I have so far

 

 I have an island style cooking area, with a top deck that is flush with the griddle on the stove (a commercial wolf CHSS-6-1829-HB6 burner with griddle and salamander) the lower deck is flush with the burners.

 

 This island is made out of wood with durarock lining the area where the stove is going to live; the durarock will have thermal tiles on it as well. I will be making the wolf splash back into a "snub" back where it only comes up to the base of the griddle (to not ruin the style of the island)

 

6.jpg

 

5.jpg

 

 I will be using a stainless 4 motor hood that is the same diameter as the wolf,  4 puck lights will be installed inside the hood.

 

4.jpg

 

 For the refrigerator I have a Traulsen (URS 36DT) fridge/freezer with the glass door &3 drawers. I am planning on mounting the fridge  flush on the left side of the cabinets and remote mounting the compressor on the other side of the wall to reduce noise and heat.

 

3.jpg

 

 The stove and fridge are a little older but in great condition (minus some cleaning and buffing that needs to be done on the stove and 1 bum compressor on the freezer half of the Traulsen).

 

 For the washer I was thinking of getting a Bosch of some type, maybe an Evolution 800 in SS

 

 The sink is going to be a commercial stainless unit with residential style Delta faucets, with soap stone over the top; I will also be using soap stone for all the counter tops.

 

 Am I missing anything here, is there anything in particular I should be sure I do when I start installing everything????

 

 I know when you try to mix form and function it can get to be a little...interesting, however any input would be greatly appreciated

 

    Thanks


Edited by SuperchargedRS - 6/29/10 at 2:16am
post #2 of 20

I would suggest putting the fridge on casters as a commercial type fridge is hard to move and clean behind. I also notice the sink(water access) is on other side of kitchen > Why not a water line connection near stove (like Chinese Stoves) so you don't have to schlep water across kitchen?

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

Reply

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

Reply
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 

The fridge are on casters, I have a fake toe board that will be going infront of the wolf to hide them, and the fridge has a stainless skirt that hides the wheels.

 

post #4 of 20

That stove is going to throw a huge amount of heat into the room, especially with an open broiler or if you're using the ovens.  A hood, even running full blast, isn't the greatest when it comes to pulling out heat.

 

With four fans, your hood's going to be very noisy.  I'm not sure what you can do about the noise, othen than to run the hood fans as little and as low as possible. 

 

Also, cooking on a commercial gas range is going to put a lot of grease in the air if you use the stove top to its capacity.  As long as you hood's a custom, do what you can to make it as easy to clean (inside and out) as possible.

 

Noise and heat are two of the reasons commercial kitchens aren't the best places in the world for social gatherings.  If you want a kitchen in which you can hang out and have a conversation, you'll want to run your hood fans just enough to suck out the smoke.  

 

Make darn sure your AC is up to the task.  Consider additional an AC vent or two in the kitchen, especially near the stove. 

 

Remoute mounting the fridge compressors is a good idea -- although it pretty much scotches Ed's idea of rolling the fridge around easily.  Use enough flexible duct so that you can move the fridge enough to clean behind and under it.  No matter where you put the compressors, they're going to be noisy.  Whatever you're planning on doing in terms of sound insulation for the compressor(s) in their actual mounting place, do twice more.

 

Nice design by the way,

BDL

post #5 of 20

I agree with BDL

 

 

That stove is great but indoor....ya better get proper ventilation....( that stove would be great for a cabana room kinda 1/2 outdoors if ya know what I mean with a pizza oven too)

and I agree nice layout.....good for you cause I know renos can be a real headache and a half!

 

best of luck

 

Gypsy

My feet are firmly planted in mid air
Reply
My feet are firmly planted in mid air
Reply
post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 

 As far as the heat goes, I have windows on both sides of the kitchen, I have  1 vent of the soffit above the sink, and two ceiling mounted vents on the high side of the island, a 5ton AC and a Evap cooler (depending on humidity).

 

 How far do you guys think that Wolf will throw grease? just on the oven and hood?  am I going to need to use satin or semi-gloss paint on the walls for the grease?


Edited by SuperchargedRS - 6/30/10 at 1:50am
post #7 of 20
Thread Starter 

  Hey guys, thanks for all the input...but I have another problem now!

 

 I had that fridge on it's back in a pickup for 2 days in the heat (like 100F), I brought it into the kitchen on a dolly and now I can get the trays to go in, it seems like the inside panels are slightly buldging in!!! the outside of the unit it straight as a arrow and before I put it in the truck everything was smooth as silk! I was very carefull, I didnt srop it or even bump it

 

 

 What gives???

post #8 of 20

There is no mechanical problem so difficult nor so complex it cannot be solved with the application of brute force and ignorance.  Me. 

 

Or...  If it won't fit, force it.  If that won't work, use a bigger hammer.

 

BDL

 

PS.  Make sure you're trying to install the shelves right side up.


Edited by boar_d_laze - 6/30/10 at 9:19pm
post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 

 Yea, I can actually see that this inner walls are bulging in slightly!

 

 I had the fridge on its back during transport (and then for two days, which I wasn’t intending) I think I need to let it sit up right for a day before I turn it on.

 

 Since I can get it cold to try to reverse the bulge I have 6 20lb bags of ice in it right now.

 

 Anyone knows anything about this type of issue.

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by boar_d_laze View Post

There is no mechanical problem so difficult nor so complex it cannot be solved with the application of brute force and ignorance.  Me. 

 

Or...  If it won't fit, force it.  If that won't work, use a bigger hammer.

 

BDL

 

PS.  Make sure you're trying to install the shelves right side up

 

post #10 of 20

I said it funny but was serious about muscling it back in place.  After checking for right side up, force the shelves in.  The whole fridge is probably slightly wracked. 

 

It's easy enough to check for squareness with a tape measure.  If the fridge itself is square diagonals will be the same from side to side and top to bottom.  Measure at several different levels.

 

Whether it's the whole reefer or just the interior, With luck when the shelves straighten that out, the interior walls should "pop" straight.  The pressure of the shelves against the walls should take the bow out of them as the structure squares up.  If not, cut a 2 x 4 to length and use it as a spreader if you can't get the first shelf in without it.

 

If the problem doesn't resolve itself in a couple of days, pull out the shelves and repace them with two or three spreaders -- cut them a bit longer than the shelves are wide, so they generate a little more force.

 

Obviously, you have to be careful not to crack the interior walls when you force them outwards with your shelves and/or spreaders.

 

Finally, what if anything were you thinking when you loaded the reefer on its side?  If it's any consolation, I've done stupider things.

 

BDL


Edited by boar_d_laze - 7/2/10 at 4:03pm
post #11 of 20
Thread Starter 

 Well I have had the fridge on for about 12hrs now, the freezer side seems to be back to normal, however the fridge side is still out of whack (the shelves still dont fit). Also the inner walls are stainless if that makes a difference.

 

 Thoughts?

post #12 of 20

Last time.  Either the exterior and interior are both out of square (wracked), or just the interior.   You can use a tape measure and/or a square to check.

 

In any case, you're going to have to use force to wrack things back to true.

 

The refrigerator's shelves are the best tools you have for doing that.  They're all the same size and will insure that the opposite sides of the structure will be parallel.  Once you get a couple of shelves in, put a level on them to check on your progress.

 

Believe it or don't,

BDL

post #13 of 20

SPRAY WITH WD-40 AND TAP IN 

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

Reply

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

Reply
post #14 of 20

Traulsens...Well i have always love their design and quality, but because my designers said i should remote them to the roof to decrease noise in a 6000 qu ft loft, i did.  Not a bad idea but didn't run the lines thru their own and separate chases, so after 12 years condensation behind the walls and in the ceiling began to leak into the ceiling.  To make a long story short, it was the freezer that was doing the most leaking, and so we replaced that this year with a free-standing 1 unit freezer (traulsen) because the weather on the roof in Chicago is so bad, and of course it works fine.  It is noisy however.  Not so bad in a 6000 sq ft loft, but not so much to guests, but to owners, we notice it when were alone.  could have remoted to the frieght elevator shaft 6 ft away for $7000 but seemed too high just for sound relief.  We live with it.  Love their capacity and quality.

 

Anyway, why is it that Sub Zero with almost the same capacity can be so quiet?  Of course it's not as big a compressor and a lesser duty cycle; but have they really thought about this?  What do you techs think about this.  Is there a design possible (might not be profitable, i understand) that would insulate the sound, reduce it, and yet give the same quick cooling??

 

Really want to know why not.

 

Fred Shick

post #15 of 20

A few things you might consider

1. Over insulate your refrigeration lines. You don't want condensation in your cavities and whats more it can only get worse once it starts. Also because of this you might want to reconsider the flex hoses so you can't move it.

2. You can install small ducts that go down the sides of the cooker so it moves air. A smart pneumatic dynamics engineer will make suggestions to help with this so you can piggy back the exhaust hood fan.

3. Fridges warping...nah doesn't happen if it's any good. If it has, the insulation in the fridge itself is most likely no good and I promise you that you are better off to ditch it now no matter how in love you are with it. You will do motors and compressors and then you will have to remodel the kitchen in 2 years cause your over the cost of maintaining your love affair. Average insulation efficiency is only for 10 years, after that it simply gradually loses efficiency. The lack of efficiency is offset by the motor and running gear working harder (more electricity and wears things out even quicker. Might want to make double sure your oil is absolutely the best you can get, I learnt the hard way.

4. Maybe a series of ceiling exhaust fans, They are going to remove much of the heat that escapes the exhaust hood but they are going to cool your room down as you need to have fresh air intake from some where.

 

I built a mobile food processing trailer 2 years ago, I thought of every thing....until I fired up the cooking equipment, I had the exhaust hood, but the fans were way too small. In less than 2 minutes, inside trailer the temp was 46*C and climbing. I shut the systems down and.....well.....you can imagine.

I love my job
Reply
I love my job
Reply
post #16 of 20

what about swapping out the Traulsen compressor for a "variable speed compressor" that is quieter?

post #17 of 20

hello

do you like your traulsen in your home kitchen?  i have the opportunity to buy one for my remodel, and it's almost new and a great deal, but everyone warns me of the noise factor.  how do you find the noise?  i really do not want to cough it up for the sub zero -pro 48 but that is the look that i want.  the traulsen fits the bill perfectly, but i can not do remote compression... would you recommend it ?  

thank you

katie stenson

post #18 of 20
Kathleen, so sorry to not respond. Don't check this often. I love my traulsens in my home kitchen. When remoted to the roof just above us, not too noisy, the freestanding unit a single freezer, is noisy. Gareth is right over insulate and install a chase to the roof because out freezer connection leaked after 8 years and required us deciding to install a freestanding and it IS noisy. But love the capacity and sheet pan capacity. My partner doesn't like no door racks but, hey! Freddie
post #19 of 20
Gareth thanks, I rarely follow this ,but thanks so much for your response. You are right on all counts. Should have over insulated and put in a chase to easily rework the piping. Heat is no prob with our huge and remoted hood.
Freddie
post #20 of 20
Hedgewel thanks will have to google that but Tks for the lead
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Food & Cooking
ChefTalk.com › ChefTalk Cooking Forums › Cooking Discussions › Food & Cooking › Questions on Overkill kitchen build