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Masamoto VG Gyutou 240mm - Sharpening Help - Page 2

post #31 of 33

In regard to "wiggle" on the WEPS.  You can add washers to the legacy sharpener to remove the wiggle..  Contact Bob at Oldawan.  Also, new updated "ball bearing" arms are available either direct from Clay, or Bob. 

 

Confused about what knife we are talking about.  My Masamoto VG Gyuto is Hyper-Molybnenum-Vanadium Stainless.  The HS series is Pure White High Carbon Steel.  This is a much more expensive knife than the VG.

 

Since this discussion started I've ordered another Masamoto Gyuto, this time a 180mm HC which is described as "Virgin Carbon Steel".  Less expensive than the HS but should give me experience with my first venture into pure carbon in a long time.  Many years ago I picked up a couple of non-stainless knives at a used sale for something like $5 each.  They already were pretty tarnished but took a nice edge, easy to sharpen.  Don't know what happened to these.  But, eager to try pure carbon steel again. Suspect I will like, won't mind them getting a bit tarnished, or rusted from time-to-time.  I like sharpening, maintaining knives!

post #32 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benuser View Post

If you want to put a symmetric edge on an asymmetric blade, you first have to recenter the edge, and thin the left face. That's rather a major operation that involves a lot of material loss.
The essential characteristic of an asymmetric blade is the edge being off centered. If you put a symmetric edge without recentering it, steering and wedging will occur.

 

By definition a "symmetric" edge is centered on knives with ordinarily symmetric face angles.  If the edge geometry is symmetric (i.e., the bevel widths and edge angles are the same) the apex of the edge will be directly beneath the mid-point of the base of the cross-sectional triangle which represents the edge geometry.  If I need to explain the trig I will. 

 

Converting a typical gyuto's 70/30 right-handed asymmetric edge to 50/50 symmetry does NOT require losing much material.  A typical 70/30 gyuto, sharpened to 15* on both sides, will have a right side bevel of about  3- 4mm width, and a left side bevel of about 2- 3 mm.  A typical 50/50 gyuto will have both sides at about 3mm.  This means that you need to take about about 1mm off the edge, and enough off the right side bevel to burr and deburr to convert a right-handed 70/30 to, so... just in excess of 1mm total.

 

Converting to 70/30 left-handed means losing about 2mm of edge. 

 

In my book that's not enough metal loss to worry about. 

 

This may help:

 

Steering is usually a product of using an asymmetric knife wrong-handed or with a too-tight grip.  I'm not familiar with symmetric edges steering at all as a result of their geometry.  A bad grip will do it every time, though.

 

Wedging is entirely a product of how thick the edge is.  A blade wedges when the sides of the knife push a cut open before the apex of the edge can continue the cut.  Super thin knives don't wedge, no matter their edge geometry.  Thicker knives need some help, and asymmetry is one way of getting a thinner edge higher up the knife.  Multiple bevels are another strategy.

 

BDL

post #33 of 33

I checked the angle I am using with an Angle Cube on my WEPS it is about 12 degrees both sides.

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