It's a much better idea to keep the angle the same on both sides -- otherwise you'll never train your wrist to hold the correct angle and you'll have to "click in" every time you turn the knife over.
Don't let the exactitude of the numbers fool you. 70/30 seems very technical, but it isn't; it's merely shorthand for 2 to 1. You determine the ratio of asymmetry by doing nothing more sophisticated than looking at the knife. If one bevel is twice as wide as the other... there you go. That's your 70/30.
70/30 works well for most people. It's just symmetric enough for the knife to be trued on a steel, when it needs truing; and sufficiently asymmetric to avoid most wedging and pick up a touch of extra perceived sharpness and not lose too much durability.
It's also very easy to sharpen, because it It nearly always takes about twice as much work to draw a burr on the first side you sharpen. So, all you have to do is draw a burr on the the side you want to be the 70, then flip the knife over and draw a burr on the other side. Inspect the knife and continue working whichever side most needs it; then chase the burr as you would normally do. In other words, do everything as you normally would just make sure you start sharpening on the proper face.
A honesuke is designed as a special purpose knife for doing the kind of poultry work, you probably don't do. Furthermore, be aware that you'll still need something heavy duty -- like a deba, chef de chef, "meat cleaver," an old beater of a chef's knife, or even a garasuke -- for splitting backs and keelbones, trimming the tips off spare ribs, etc.
In my opinion, (a) western knives are better for the heavy duty stuff because they are so much more chip resistant; and (b) a petty does the light stuff better than any of the specialty Japanese boning knives. But what do I know?
If you absolutely, positively must have a Japanese boning knife, you'd probably find a hankotsu would suit your needs better.
Be aware that any of the Japanese boning styles are not only sharpened asymmetric but forged and ground that way as well. In other words, they are not ambidextrous but are right handed unless specifically ordered left-handed. Whether or not that matters to you -- at least you know now.
In my experience, honesukes in particular are most popular with people who feel the need to complete a set of Japanese knives and who aren't really technical cutters yet. There are certainly exceptions to that. And, perhaps, the most important thing to remember is that any really sharp knife can perform just about any knife task pretty well.
If you do get any boning knife, your 2K is a pretty good finishing level -- so you may want to hold on to it or swap it for a different stone at more or less the same level.
As nice as the Suehiro Rika is, it really acts more like a 3K than a 5K and does not compare to the Arashiyama/Takenoko as a finishing stone. They do different things. The Rika is an extremely pleasant stone to use, and you can make the Rika polish up to a kinda sorta 5K level by really working the mud and breaking down the abrasive; but it's nowhere near as fast as the Arashiayama to draw a burr, nor will it give you anywhere near the same level of "slippery" polish.
It's confusing, but the grit numbers only tell you so much. Stones have their own personalities, you have to work with them to figure them out. Your best strategy (and mine too) is to ask people we trust who have used them. Of course, that means figuring out the people too -- whom you should listen to and who will only waste your time.
Phaedrus is an excellent source, btw.
At some point you're going to outgrow CT as a source of knife and sharpening advice -- in fact you may already have -- and you'll want to look in at one of the specialty boards like Fred's Cutlery Forum.
Hope this helps,
Edited by boar_d_laze - 12/29/10 at 8:04am