
I had the very good fortune to talk with Jacques Pepin a few years' ago. We got on the topic of home cooking and he said, as I'll never forget, "The cooking shows are more popular than ever! Yet, nobody cooks!" I think there is no arguing convenience is merely part of our every day lives. It is what we have created, good, bad or otherwise.
I continue to think that some serious food historian will one day investigate closely the reception of Pepin and Child. It seems to me, largely anecdotally, that Julia Child got received as precisely what she did not want to be: a purveyor of great recipes that work great even if you don't know anything. She wanted to teach people to cook French; she became, much against her will, the first of the crowd of "TV cooks" who produced recipes for scratch-cooking that you could do without knowing anything. Pepin, by contrast, has always insisted on technique, and this makes his recipes a little trickier. You can do what he does, of course, and he's a terrific teacher, but there's always this nagging voice saying "learn what I'm doing, not every step but the concepts, and then you can just do this yourself without looking." And it seems to me that Americans do not want to hear this. They didn't want to hear this from Child, and could avoid it; they didn't and don't want to hear it from Pepin, and it's made him never quite as successful as he might have been. I sometimes wonder whether if Pepin had gone on TV in France, in the 70s, he might not have been a superstar: they really do (or did) want to know how, and not everyone actually knows how, and here's this fabulous chef who's a master of classic technique and a terrific teacher.
Is cooking dying? Probably not, but it's certainly having to fight.












