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Salmon En Croute

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 

One that I'm doing a lot of research on right now. What I'm curious about, and can't find anything similar to, is the cut of salmon. Most of the time this dish is made with a large or small fillet of salmon, or two sandwiched together, with mustard or an herb compound butter and finally wrapped in pastry.  What if, instead, I wanted to take a salmon that has been prepped as if it where going to be cut into salmon steaks, but left whole. Then trimmed, tucked, and tied to make a large cylindrical salmon parcel. Interested in this for both salmon en croute, and for roasts that won't be using pastry as well.

post #2 of 24

It's better if you can make sure you're not leaving any bones in obviously. Otherwise I can't see why it would be a problem. 

 

One thing to watch for is the size of the salmon... too large and the pastry could be cooked before the fish. 

post #3 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcieluck View Post

One that I'm doing a lot of research on right now. What I'm curious about, and can't find anything similar to, is the cut of salmon. Most of the time this dish is made with a large or small fillet of salmon, or two sandwiched together, with mustard or an herb compound butter and finally wrapped in pastry.  What if, instead, I wanted to take a salmon that has been prepped as if it where going to be cut into salmon steaks, but left whole. Then trimmed, tucked, and tied to make a large cylindrical salmon parcel. Interested in this for both salmon en croute, and for roasts that won't be using pastry as well.



2 questions here -- 1. is salmon en croute cannot be rolled and tied ,how would you remove string?

      Filet a 4 to 6 ounce filet ,smear it with mayo,dill,worstishire,tobassco and dijon. top with a piece of leek cook 18 to 20 minutes at 400.

   Second way -- butterfly a 5 ounce filet and stuff it with whatever you want. Then place it in a piece of commercial plastic wrap and roll tightly. Steam or poach till done then let cool slightly ,unwrap and slice . This can be used for cold or hot presentations.

Great part of anything En croute is that you can always cut the portion smaller as pastry makes it look bigger.

 

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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post #4 of 24

Whole salmon can be done En croute a la Paul Bocuse. same way as doing a single portion. and also whole poached in plastic or cheesecloth but harder to handle.

Most places do individual because if you do whole salmon en croute and do not sell it all , what do you do with it next day Cold Puff Pastry on fish is not exactly the greatest thing.

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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post #5 of 24

There is a Russian dish called "Kulebiaka" in which to whole sides of salmon are sandwiched between a rice filling before being wrapped in Brioche pastry. The filling consists of rice mixed with chopped hard boiled egg, sauteed onion, mushrooms and fish veloute. I've made it many times.

post #6 of 24

Leaving the bones in is a real deal breaker for this dish IMO.  If I were to serve something like this it would be with two fillets, skinned and pin bones removed nested together in a ying yang type formation.  It can't be tied if one is to wrap it in pastry, so I would probably sprinkle a little Activa RM (transglutaminase enzymes) between the fillets to join it into one cylindrical mass.

 

Personally I'm with Ed that the individual salmon en croute is a little more convenient.  When I'm cooking for the crew while we're salmon fishing in the summer, I have a strange take on salmon en croute that makes for a quick meal with little clean up.  I have a small Taiyaki press that I bring on the boat and I'll make "salmon en croute" in the style of taiyaki with whatever salmon scraps I've got.  I started this as a way to make chum salmon palatable but the crew loved it.  It's a pretty fun presentation and extremely easy.

post #7 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by benway View Post

It can't be tied if one is to wrap it in pastry, so I would probably sprinkle a little Activa RM (transglutaminase enzymes) between the fillets to join it into one cylindrical mass.


Not sure what that stuff is but it doesn't sound like something I want to put in my mouth... 

 

You could just slather some salmon mousseline (4 oz salmon, 2 oz heavy cream, 1 egg white, salt & pepper, pulse in food processor until mousse-like) on the first filet and lay the second one on top. Add some minced fresh herbs in your mousseline and it'll look beautiful when sliced. 

post #8 of 24

You've already put it in your mouth.  Transglutaminase is a naturally occurring enzyme in animals, plants, and bacteria but is only recently available in useful form to restaurants and cooks.  This particular enzyme fuses proteins together with such strength that its really like a whole uncut protein mass.  Its also a hell of a lot of fun and I strongly recommend it to people who like eating meat.

post #9 of 24
Thread Starter 

So i'm guessing that what I have in mind cant be done without bones being present.  This isn't meant for professional dinner service or banquet. This is really more of a photo gallery piece or something i'd put in front of a date that's impressive and a tad bit suggestive.  I just have this loony idea of a glorious, maybe 5 inch tall, near perfectly cylindrical, tower of food on a place, but fish may not be the protein of choice for this.

 

And really now, I am smarter than to wrap twine underneath the pastry....

post #10 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by benway View Post

sprinkle a little Activa RM (transglutaminase enzymes) between the fillets to join it into one cylindrical mass.


Here's some I found made from human enzymes... MMMMM... 

 

"What's the secret ingredient shef..." 

"Human...bwuahahahhahah!"

 

http://www.biotangusa.com/bt/human-tgm2-tgc-transglutaminase-2-recombinant-protein-100ug.html

post #11 of 24

I don't know what's more disgusting, the product or the price.

post #12 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcieluck View Post

So i'm guessing that what I have in mind cant be done without bones being present.  This isn't meant for professional dinner service or banquet. This is really more of a photo gallery piece or something i'd put in front of a date that's impressive and a tad bit suggestive.  I just have this loony idea of a glorious, maybe 5 inch tall, near perfectly cylindrical, tower of food on a place, but fish may not be the protein of choice for this.

 

And really now, I am smarter than to wrap twine underneath the pastry....

 

Hmmm. I recently had something a bit like this but not quite as high. It was done by creating a cylindrical mousse that featured the skinned and boned fillets inside and then wrapping the mousse in the fish skin. It worked pretty well.
 

 

post #13 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcieluck View Post

One that I'm doing a lot of research on right now. What I'm curious about, and can't find anything similar to, is the cut of salmon. Most of the time this dish is made with a large or small fillet of salmon, or two sandwiched together, with mustard or an herb compound butter and finally wrapped in pastry.  What if, instead, I wanted to take a salmon that has been prepped as if it where going to be cut into salmon steaks, but left whole. Then trimmed, tucked, and tied to make a large cylindrical salmon parcel. Interested in this for both salmon en croute, and for roasts that won't be using pastry as well.


You might want to try Braiding the fish. That is cutting in 3 long strips and actually braid it. It is a fantastic presentation and you very rarely see it. You can mix strips of salmon and sole
 

 

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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post #14 of 24

You might want to try Braiding the fish. That is cutting in 3 long strips and actually braid it.

 

Easier said than done, so you'll want to practice a bit. Keep in mind that your starting strips have to be as evenly sized as possible, and much longer than the finished product. And, as with a challah, it works best if you start in the middle then braid towards the ends.

 

But once you get it down it is probably the most impressive fish presentation you can do---especially if, as Ed suggests, you mix two different colored fish.

They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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post #15 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by KYHeirloomer View Post

You might want to try Braiding the fish. That is cutting in 3 long strips and actually braid it.

 

Easier said than done, so you'll want to practice a bit. Keep in mind that your starting strips have to be as evenly sized as possible, and much longer than the finished product. And, as with a challah, it works best if you start in the middle then braid towards the ends.

 

But once you get it down it is probably the most impressive fish presentation you can do---especially if, as Ed suggests, you mix two different colored fish.



KY   I was going to say like a Challah but thought maybe some people didn't know what that was? But thats how I learned how to do the fish. Last time I did it was as an appi course about 12 years ago served with Sauce Nastua

 

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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post #16 of 24
Thread Starter 

That sounds amazing. What would be the preferred way of cooking that?  I'm going to assume poached or steamed.

post #17 of 24

Poached -Broiled I don't like steaming as you lose flavor. lso I spelled it wrong it is '''Sauce Nantua''' Or a light Lobster or crab sauce

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 

You can depend on the fact that I will be trying this the first occasion I find.

post #19 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcieluck View Post

You can depend on the fact that I will be trying this the first occasion I find.



Practice the braiding first with 3 pieces of wide ribbon.

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

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post #20 of 24

I usually broil them and serve with a sauce, but can easily see poaching them.

 

Nantua sounds like a good choice, Ed. Last time I made these I used a saffron-cream sauce. 

 

If you sauce them, pcieluck, keep in mind that you want the braids to sit on top of the sauce, so as to not hide the visual appeal.

 

A nice touch, too, is to reverse the colors. That is, do half the braids with 2 salmon and one whitefish, the other with 2 whitefish and one salmon. As an app, three small braids on a long plate really look spectacular when you include both patterns. F'rinstance, try a double salmon on the ends, flanking a double white.

 

I think using ribbon is a good way to learn how to braid. Even better is Venetian Blind cord. But with fish, the only way to develop a feel for braiding is to actually braid with it. There's definately a learning curve.

They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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They have taken the oath of the brother in blood, in leavened bread and salt. Rudyard Kipling
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post #21 of 24
Thread Starter 

I used to be a baker, so I have some idea on how to braid and have the end result look even, though I won't expect fish to be as forgiving as dough.

post #22 of 24

One restaurant in Alaska is famous for a braided salmon presentation, Marx Bros. Cafe. What is unique about their recipe is that they source white king and regular king salmon (Chinook) for their braided presentation. White king is scarce though even up here. I caught a 47lb one and it was some of the best salmon I ever ate.

post #23 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcieluck View Post

I used to be a baker, so I have some idea on how to braid and have the end result look even, though I won't expect fish to be as forgiving as dough.



After you have it braided, try turning it into a circular effect.  Like a  a braided danish. This also looks great.

 

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

Reply

Chef EdB
Over 50 years in food service business 35 as Ex Chef. Specializing in Volume upscale Catering both on and off premise .(former Exec. Chef in the largest on premise caterer in US  with 17 Million Dollars per year annual volume). 
      Well versed in all facets of Continental Cuisine...

Reply
post #24 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post 

One restaurant in Alaska is famous for a braided salmon presentation, Marx Bros. Cafe. What is unique about their recipe is that they source white king and regular king salmon (Chinook) for their braided presentation. White king is scarce though even up here. I caught a 47lb one and it was some of the best salmon I ever ate.


I've heard about white king before but never actually eaten it. You can bet it crossed my mind every time we had a bunch of king in the fish hold on our way to the fishery. If only there were a way to tell from the outside!

 

I'm told that they taste a little bit like the yellow perch we've got in Wisconsin.

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