In search of the perfect french fry

John, I do fresh fries, but don't use peanut oil....too spendy for my application.

I cut, soak and rinse until the water runs clear, no more starch coming off the potato.

I blanch at 300, until tender, but no color, longer than the 2 min you are doing.

I was cooking at 375 but was not getting the crispness I wanted. Went to 350 for a longer cook time.

One other thing, I am always a day ahead on blanched fries, so I am cooking cold from the fridge.

Seems to work a little better. They have to be served immediately, or the frys go soft. 

 I use #2 russets, about one pound each, end up with 10 oz finished product.

The quality of the potato you get has allot to do with your end product, fresh, or cold storage, sugar content, starch content. I never get perfect fries, but close enough and my customers enjoy them.

In Scotland, the BEST chips (aka in the USA as French Fries) are cooked in lard.

In the U.S., Mc Donald used to fry them in Suet. I've heard they were delicious, but never had a chance to try them. 

You want something good try them in duck fat

Well I'll assume we are talking about pure technique, meaning I'll leave the exact potato variety and fat to you.  Reason being that FF should be cheap.  Duck fat is delicious but you could have fries made with soybean oil everyday...well sort of.

The first thing we need to consider is the cut.  Double Arches (who honestly will forget more about frying potatoes than we could ever hope to learn) use a 1/4" cut which is pretty small by restaurant standards.  This smaller cut means more overall surface area and thus more crust.  If you're into crust these are your guys.  I've settled on a 3/8" as my favorite cut.  This is a popular size for cutters and also good multipurpose.  Not so small that they will be compared to McDonalds while still having some plenty of crust.  They have enough of an interior that they can be creamy and can pass as "steak fries."

Now the method.  Blanch, Fry, Fry is the most widely accepted frying method and this is for good reason.  Its what McDonald's does (with a freeze between the two fryings).  I've seen others tack another fry on there but IMO they are taking something that's already a lot of work to do at home and making it worse.  Unless they are doing everything else right I can guarantee that the of fryings isn't the bottleneck.

Ok lets talk about Blanching.  You said you are blanching your fries for 2 minutes in boiling water.  That's a start but what if I told you that McDonalds blanches their fries for 15 minutes at 170 degrees F?  Not possible right?  That's way overcooked--but they do.  And I'll tell you what, its the secret to beautiful fluffy insides and wonderful potato flavor.  Also, salt your blanching water.  Now a constant 170 degrees isn't easy to do even in most commercial kitchens.  You could heat your water to the right temperature and then fill a cooler with it and blanch your fries in there... Or you could just do it at a boil which is close enough.  Since my fries are a little thicker, a little more temperature doesn't seem to hurt.  The downside is that by doing it at the higher temperature, your fries will almost be falling apart by the time you fry them.  Not to worry, creating the crust will strengthen them.  The last thing to consider while blanching them is to NEVER let the temperature drop below 176 degrees F.  Seriously.  Below this temperature an enzyme that strengthens the potatoes pectin is activated, leading to more starch and a plasticy crust that soaks up more oil and gets soggy faster.  To make sure your fries don't dip below that mark, bring them to a boil and don't add so many fries that the temp drops too much.

Lets back up a second.  I said the method was Blanch, Fry, Fry but I forgot an optional step--soak.  It is possible to create fries that are even delicious cold.  If you are REALLY hardcore google "Pectinex SP-L" and create a water solution containing .4% of this chemical.  It weakens pectin and releases starch to help even more with the stuff I described at the end of my last paragraph on blanching.

Finally you fry your fries.  350 for the first time and 375 for the second one works pretty good.  After the first fry, their will be a crust but the fry should still be blonde in color.  You may find some happy medium between these two temperatures that works for you where you only have to fry once but the purpose of this is to build a strong crust.  Again these are the same temperatures used by McDonalds!

NOTE: McDonald's does do one more step that I didn't mention.  They tumble dry their fries after blanching.  I find this step to be unnecessary and downright bad as our fries are more fragile than theirs since theirs are blanched right at 170 degrees F.

We use one of those whatchacall smash-the-potato-through-the-grate type cutters. When I bought it I bought the larger of 2 sizes. Bolted the unit down to the counter and we make 50#'s of fries in 10 minutes. Lots of fun. We soak the fries in salt water for a day, rinse/dry them and bag them for the freezer; +/-5#'s/bag I think. We fry them up for 8-10 or so minutes @ 350*. I could be wrong on that time though. Salt 'em and serve 'em. Tasty, crunchy/chewy. I gotta agree, Micky D's does have good fries. 

I like the rectangular shape 3/4 x 1/4. It's not as cost effective as 1/4 x 1/4 but it allows you to get lots of sauce if your dunking, holds the heat longer, and looks quite good in just about any situation. I also have seen 3 Heston fry potato chips 3 times all at 130*C, the last fry was quite long about 12 min from memory, but as benway suggested it was just to add colour.

lets not forget the potato ...kinnebec potatoes in my opinon provide the perfect balance of waxyness and starchyness....blanch cool then fry the formula is simple the ingredient is key

I question you Benway about McDonalds fries.

How come I'll see them tear open a bag of fries and pour them into the basket to fry them? 

I have never seen what you mention.

Now, I have, in my career, worked in many places that made their own fries.

The device that Gareth mentioned used to hang above the sink in one place I worked.

The guys would cut fries that would fall into the sink filled with water.

Then they would "blanch" the fries in 350 degree french fryer then allow them to drain on a wire mesh placed over sheet pans.

When orders came up, they would take what they need and fry them a 2nd time.

Salt them after they come out and that's it. 

For me at work, I fry them once and allow to drain on paper bag. Then fry a second time. I keep a stainless steel bowl in a 220 degree oven and after draining I toss them with salt in this bowl for service. I do not allow the fries to sit as that's how they become soft and mushy.

Every company and every person has the best way to make and cook fries. A prominent Restaurant Magazine just did a polol and the results wr\ere Wendy's were voted # 1 by the majority. What amazes me is the fries they are selling now are made from chopped and pressed or extruded potato mixed with eggwhite. Read the ingredients on a case of Sysco Stealth Fries. They are almost the same as potato tots or gems only chopped smaller and fed through a different die in the extruder machine. There has also been experimenting done here in Florida on an artificial Orange, I will find out more info re. these. Talk about ScyFy channel.

- Choise of potatoes. This is imperative to make good frites. Look for potatoes with very little sugar in them! If they contain too much sugar, your frites will look darkbrown instead of golden as they should look, and they will be soggy and bwaaah, no dought...

- Choise of fat; best frites are still made in oxwhite (beef suet). They taste incredible. A more modern way is to use a good quality oil. I use a storebought combinationfat that contains mostly sunflower. Don't use the same fat for dozens of times! Always take small dark bits of frites out of the oil or it will turn the next batches somewhat bitter. I always sieve the oil after cooled.

- Cut your frites by hand in square sticks at 8-12 mm. The unequal sizes of handcut frites gives a lot of different textures which contributes to a better mouthfeel...

-  Just wash quickly but do NOT soak them! Dry the rinsed frites in a clean kitchentowel!!!! If not, the water will get under the oil and your fat may run over the fryer edge!

- Fry just a little frites at a time; 2 big handfuls is more than enough! I fill a very common deep plate to measure one batch, not too much heaped. That's also enough for 2 people.

- First, poach in oil at 150°C. Don't let the frites get a color. You can hear the changing of the frying sound when they are ready. Lift the basket up, take a frite between index and thumb and squeeze. When they're more or less easy to squeeze through, they're done for the first time. This poaching can take up to 8 minutes or longer. Exact timing is nonsense, just do the squeeze test a few times to be sure.

- Leave the frites to cool entirely; spread them on a large (oven)tray, they will cool very quickly. Time to make mayo, a must with frites.

- Raise temperature to 180°C. Again don't overcrowd the fryer! Fry the frites in just a minute or so until golden, NOT brown. Again, you can simply hear from the changing of frying sound of the frites when they are ready.

Enjoy, and, greetings from the frites country par excellence!

One last remark; make your own frozen frites portions. After poaching for the first time and cooling, portion and bag them and put in your freezer. Ready to use and 1000 times better than that commercial junk.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisBelgium 

Time to make mayo, a must with frites.

I can spot a connoisseur! 

It's all about the double-dip. Fry those mothers twice.

McDonald's fries come from the McDonald's processor.  Everything is done to the fries except the final fry before they ever get to the restaurant.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chefross 

I question you Benway about McDonalds fries.

How come I'll see them tear open a bag of fries and pour them into the basket to fry them? 

I have never seen what you mention.

The reason you've seen McDonald's open a bag of frozen fries and dump them in the fryer is because that's exactly what happened.  You just witnessed the final fry from the blanch, fry, (freeze), fry process.  Everything prior is done in a central facility.

As I said before, once you start getting into choosing the potato variety and the oil the perfect fry starts to get crazy.  The process I've described above works for many varieties of potato and any frying oil (I'll second the beef tallow though).  McDonald's potato needs are so large that even they don't use just one variety.

The process I described above is nearly the same as the McDonald's but without the preservatives, the addition of a soak in Pectinex SP-L, a different cut on the fries, a more practical blanching temperature and I season the blanching water with 3% salt to season the thicker fries from within.

I'll put my fries against any, as I said they are even good cold.  Somewhere along the way I decided that to be a great cook, one should be able to take on double arches, arguably the best restaurant in the world, at what they do best.  Now if only I could beat their ice cream--but that is a different post.

One of the how is it made shows did a segment on french fries. They were cut, soaked as they made their way through running water chutes to move them through the factory then steamed until tender then flash frozen.

Hi John, I made more fries then I wish to remember but here's my trick, as ChefBubba says make them a day ahead and make sure they are washed clean. Blanch as he said then spread out on a pan sheet and freeze them. Now while frozen dip in sugar water bath and drain before final fry you can do this and leave them in fry baskets ready to go if you need to make a large amount at one sitting but don't let them sit out for more than an hour. You can also leave them in the walkin and use them for most of the day. Hope it works for you. 

Hello, this is the original french fries recipe used in France and Belgium in the better restaurant ...

sorry for my english i ll try to explain well thank you...

1. the potatoes choice

Take the potatoes a little mealy, with us the variety used is the universal, abundant.

Potatoes are too newly harvested under good fries, the potato should have some experience

2. The choice of fat

Formerly (before 60 years), the fries are manufactured with beef fat (white beef). Since new mixed fat frying Special emerged, and especially recommended oils to be heated. Such as peanut oil. Never use oils for salads, they decompose on heating and produce unhealthy molecules.

3. procedure

Peel the potatoes, then cut them into slices 8 to 10 mm thick, then cut each slice into sticks. Section is square.
Dip the raw fries in cold water, and wash them! This is intended to dissolve the excess starch that spoil your fat or oil in your cooking. Then dry them, wipe them with a cloth altogether, also as important step to prevent bubbles of fat burning during the first dive, there is no point to evaporate the water in the fat. It is now ready to dive for the first time. Do not wait for hours, fries oxidizes in contact with air and yellow.

You must have a deep fryer. Kind of pan fitted with a basket inside. If you can not get the pan, a pot will do, we will use a drainer (shovel with holes) to remove the chips, but it is not ideal.
Dip the fries, and especially do not put too much at once, they should be free to travel in the fat by the movement of convection. Interfere with the cooking too.
The fat must be hot, (160, 170 ° C) before diving. (No thermostat, fried to a raw and waiting, when she began singing (to make bubbles) is the right temperature ...). Dip the fries. After a few seconds of small bubbles begin to appear and they will grow as you go. The chips are based on the bottom of the fryer. Question: how long? Impossible to say since we do not know the amount of chips, the amount of fat or the cooking instrument, but the signs are obvious. When the first friteauront tend to rise to the surface let another minute, and then take them out and let drain.
Do so during the drainage, raise the temperature to 180-190 ° C. The first dive was to cook the center of the fried, the second will aim to make the crust golden. After two or three minutes to drain, immerse the fries. It will be a heat shock for the brown. Normally at this stage, the chips tend to float on the fat. Take them out when they are golden brown. It is the color that decides. Not too pale (it would not be crunchy), not too brown (it irritate the teeth).
Well, more to say than done. It is often several batches, sometimes we cook all the french fries the first time in several passages (2 or 3 typical for a family), then plunges them all a second time in several passages. The time between the first and second dive is not critical. In fact the only, the real trick is the double cooking, a first cook at medium temperature for the heart, and the other at higher temperature to brown the outside.

ENJOY ;)

In our house, we like oven baked. 

Wedged Yukon Golds on a tray, drizzled with the EVOO,

a sprinkle of fine sea salt, freshly cracked black pepper

and lastly granulated garlic. 

Pop them into a hot oven, turning every so often and then, LET’S EAT! 

We like a dipper of tartar sauce.  (maybe even a chocolate shake to dip into if you feel devil-ish)

Ops, that sounds like roasted potatoes. 

Either way, they’re ONO!!

Mc Donalds potato products are supplied by Simplot.  J.R.Simplot and Roy Croc worked together for years devloping their fries. Croc had a handshake agreement and contract  with J.R., that from what I understand still holds true  today.

Quote:

Originally Posted by chefedb 

Mc Donalds potato products are supplied by Simplot.  J.R.Simplot and Roy Croc worked together for years devloping their fries. Croc had a handshake agreement and contract  with J.R., that from what I understand still holds true  today.

You don't hear about things like that happening much today.. agreements holding up, signed or shaken

They were both businessmen, had ethics  and stood up for anything they did.  They made one another succesful.

    Today one tries to squeeze out that extra $ out of the other no matter what.

   Screw the other guy. Different  mind set, different times. 

The perfect french fry?

My process was derived from merely studying the patents filed by french fry producers.

While the specific industrial process is virtually impossible to duplicate, for example the dozen or so additives to blanching water alone, the basic process steps can be employed to produce an in house french fry of superb quality.

1)  The first step is the most difficult -- finding a high starch, high specific gravity potato.

     Personally I haven't found an 'off the shelf' Idaho Russet that met the minimum specific gravity french fry producers demand. My speculation is that      the potatoes that don't make the processor's grade are shipped off for the food-service and retail markets.

     Just locate the best potato you possibly can, but be aware that your final quality will be all over the place.

2)   Next is "conditioning" the potato.

     Potatoes coming out off cold storage have a high sugar content, it takes several

     weeks at 70 degrees F to convert this sugar back into starch.

     If you fries are coming out dark, the cause is too high a sugar content.

3)   Blanch the potato strips in 170° F for 20 minutes.

     A steam kettle with good temperature control is ideal for this step.

     The addition of 2 - 3% vinegar will help the strips from becoming mushy.

4)    Dry the potato strips.

       The strips laid out on wire racks on sheet pans are placed in a convection oven with the "air only" or "cool down" setting with the door open for

       approximately 20 minutes.

       Low levels of heat could be used also, the idea is to remove excess water from the strips.

       65% moisture is where processors dry their fries to.

5)    Par-fry the strips.

       Fry at 365° F for 50 seconds. It is imperative the oil temperature does not drop. We use a Frymaster full-vat fryer with about a six gallon capacity

       set at 375° to compensate for the temperature drop. You will need to experiment with initial temperatures and batch sizes to control temperature

       drop.

6)    Final fry the strips at 375° for approximately 2 minutes, however, the final fry time will be determined by the quality of the fries coming out of

       the fryer and your personal preference.

       Once again, the final fry temperature is dependent on many variables, you must experiment with temperatures and times to determine your ideal

       method.

       The Frymaster fryer we purchased was a formerly used at a McDonald's location, the electronic fry control was set to 335° for 2 minutes and 20

       seconds. McDonald's uses a 9/32" sized fry strip hence the need to fry at a lower temperature.

Now the real question.

Is the above process even practical for an in house procedure?

Probably not, considering the extensive prep time involved and the problem sourcing a consistent high specific gravity potato.

The best solution:

Buy the best frozen french fries you can obtain.

Fry them in the best fry oil commercially available -- rice bran oil,

or if your clientele permits, fry with the same oil Popeye's uses -- Miniat All-Fry, incidentally a similar beef tallow formulation to that which McDonald's used before being forced to switch to vegetable oil. Miniat, a Chicago based edible oil producer, also once supplied McDonald's fry oils.

Fries fried in beef fat are superior in taste to all other fry oils.

the heston blumenthal method seemed to be blanching (to get falling apart edges), then par frying at 250 degrees, then crisping at 350 degrees, and i was really impressed with the results (lots of crispy crunchy crinchy edges).

just sayin...