Opinions/advice on a working set of knives

Great post.  On top of all the necessary information, you're a good writer -- which didn't hurt it any.  Do you need advice, or maybe just an ear?  Sounds like you already know quite a bit. 

If I understand you correctly, you're willing to go upmarket to some extent with a yo-gyuto, but plan on staying more conservative with the rest of the kit.  Good thinking.  Let's start with the chefs.

Nothing wrong with the Tojiro DP, but it's in a very different class from the MAC and Kikuichi. I can't begin to advise you whether you want to go entry level or get something better.

The Tojiro is a decent knife for its price, but not the only one in the same range. You should consider the Fujiwara and -- for a few bucks more -- the Kagayaki VG-10.  Both are lighter and more agile than the Tojiro.  They'll all get as sharp as your ability to sharpen, but the Tojiro is comparatively a trifle thick.  They all hold the edge fairly well -- with perhaps a very slight nod to the Tojiro, but it's unlikely you'll notice that as a practical matter.  All of them can be steeled profitably.  Fujiwara and Tojiro both have decent F&F, the Kagayaki is better. 

The Kagayaki has the shortest and narrowest handle.  The Tojiro's is somewhat blocky.  Fujiwara's is in the middle, but a bit short and narrow compared to Euro handles.   Given her size, it's unlikely your daughter will have any problem with length, but width preferences can be idiosyncratic.  Which knives does she feel most comfortable with now?   

FYI, "Kagayaki" is JCK's house brand.  Almost certainly, the different models are made by different sets of makers.  Not that I have any specific knowledge, but that's the way things are usually done in Seki.

The MAC and Kikuichi TKC are both endgame knives for the professional kitchen.  You can spend a lot more and get a little more, but the higher end knives (which you aren't interested in anyway) aren't appropriate for a first good knife -- especially in a pro environment.  There are quite a few other knives at more or less the same level too.  If your daughter's favorites are Sabatiers, you might also want to consider the Masamoto VG.  Masamoto and Sabatier chefs have a lot in common.

MAC has an excellent warranty -- a very unusual thing with Japanese knives; and incredibly good U.S. support.  Those are important things and shouldn't be discounted too heavily.

MAC has -- or is tied for -- best handle in the industry.  I don't know anyone who's used one for any length of time who doesn't love the handle.  Better than Sabatier. 

I recommend the MAC Pro more often than any other knife, and it's also the knife I give as a gift, as it has all the virtues of a good yo-gyuto but is nearly as stiff as a traditional Euro.  Stiffness is big thing with most western cooks -- especially those who are more interested in prepping with something comfortable rather than a search for potential absolute sharpness they'll never achieve, and/or the next knife that will save the world.

If I were buying a mass produced, stainless, yo-gyuto for myself  it would most likely be the Masamoto VG, or possibly the Kikuichi TKC.  But I don't care too much about stiffness.  The Masamoto is great for its profile.  The Kikuichi is gaining the reputation among knife guys as being one of those knives which does everything extremely well and is universally liked.  Most knife guys are more into knives than cooking, but two of the best chefs I know, both familiar with the TKC, are pushing it pretty hard.  Of course neither uses a yo-gyuto himself, so take it for what it's worth.

I haven't spent anything like quality time with the Kikuichi, but a lot of people, including the self same knife guys I respect most are very high on it.  At this time, it's probably the classiest of the knives being mentioned. 

An alternative to the TKC is the Kagayaki CarboNext.  The Kagayaki is about 30% less, lesser F&F, lesser support, smaller handle (like the Kagayaki VG-10) and does not come sharp out of the box.  It also has a terrble name and terrible graphics. Also, JCK's optional, extra-cost sharpening doesn't seem to net an acceptable edge either.  But since you can sharpen, who cares?

Petite women often talk about strength, stature and hand size as though they were important considerations for choosing length.  They aren't, at least not as long as they can see the top of the cutting board. Controlling the knife -- as long as it's not too heavy -- is in the grip and in practice.  With a good grip and posture, the point of the knife is controlled by the cook's eye, not a lot of contortion of the wrist and elbow.  Pinch; don't choke the handle, put the off-foot forward (helps keep the knife square to the counter), keep the wrist straight, drink plenty of fluids and call me in the morning.

240 is more productive than a 210, and most people can not only learn to handle the extra length quickly, but become addicted to it just as quickly.  That said, length is a taste more than anything else.  If you're consulting her, abide by her choice.  If you're surprising her, go 240 and don't look back. 

You'd already set forth the MAC Pro and Kikuichi TKC has your high end choices.  Assuming you can afford the freight, you can't go wrong with either choice. 

So?  What are you thinking?

BDL

Finer grits don't make things sharper, just less toothy.  The problem with the Wustie is probably wedging. 

Thin first, maybe all the way down to 15* per side, then sharpen at their normal 20*.  The alloy is soft and won't hold anything more acute. When you thin, you don't have to polish the bevel.  1000# will be fine.

You can take the cutting bevel up to 4 or 5000 on water stones, but old Wusthof steel is so soft it'll scuff in no time and anything finer is a waste.  Not that it makes much difference, but I like Arkansas stones for the final edge on Euro blades.  For whatever reasons fine edges from natural stones cut a little more efficiently and hold up a little better.  Emphasis on "a little."

Say "Hi" to your daughter for me.

BDL

The big PEtec difference seems to be computer controlled machine (as opposed to hand) sharpening at the factory at (as you said) a flat (as opposed to slightly convex) and more acute bevel angle.  I can't find anything on different hardening.  Wusthof claims a C Hardness of 58* for all their knives, which should be hard enough to hold the angle. 

I've got a problem with their implied claim that the knife can be maintained indefinitely with a steel.  It flies against everything we know from experience about every other knife.  Steels can true, but not repair wear which requires "thinning" by controlled removal of material. 

If it results in a thinner, more acute edge, you've got to say it's a good thing -- as long as it's reasonably durable and easy to maintain.  March of Progress, and all that.  Still, my internal Luddite hates to see the end of factory, hand sharpening.   

A 13* edge angle is going to make an already good, high quality knife even better; but probably won't change its essential, German characteristics.  Good thing there's plenty of room for everyone.

Speaking of a 13* edge...  Any practical differences between a 13* and 15* fresh edge will be minimal.  But -- and here's the rub -- there's a nominal difference from any pre-set sharpening gags on the market.  Once Wusthof admits that PEtecs need occasional sharpening, the people who buy pre-set, pull-throughs (choice of the home "gourmet-cook") will be stuck with Wusthof. 

BDL