Let's start with some definitions and some basic technique.
Chasing v Stropping:
"Chasing" the burr and "stropping" aren't necessarily different.
"Chasing" the burr means getting so much fatigue along the seam where the burr meets the (as yet unrevealed) edge, that the burr can flip from side to side with very little pressure.
"Stropping" refers to using spine leading/edge trailing strokes only. It can also mean using stropping strokes on a "strop," which is any of several materials, hard or soft, charged or uncharged. In any case, you can chase a burr by stropping (on stones or a strop).
The idea with chasing the burr is to get it to change sides with a single, light pressure stroke. Once the burr is chased that far, it can be removed fairly easily and will leave a fresh, metal edge behind it; as fine as the scratch on the bevels will allow.
Because of it's very small contact patch, a honing rod creates tremendous pressure along the burr and seam. If you want to use yours as a part of the deburring process; chase your burrs on your stones and/or strops to the flip on every stroke stage, then make sure with your rod. The geometry does nearly all the work. Three strokes per side, alternating sides with every stroke, and using very light pressure is enough.
Deburring:
Some people deburr after every grit level, some only once they've reached a fairly refined level. As it happens, I don't deburr until around 3K-5K based on the BDL Theory of Avoiding Unnecessary Effort Like the Frikkin' Plague; but that doesn't mean you should do what I do.
There are a few ways to deburr. Sometimes there's enough fatigue generated chasing the burr so that it falls off on its own. You should be so lucky.
One of the most common is to dissolve the burr by sharpening using only full-length-of-blade edge leading/spine trailing strokes (the opposite of stropping) with a slight rotation. More often than not, this is done poorly and incompletely. I do it following the coarser grits, and out of habit with the finer. Since I also deburr in felt and cork, you can deduce how well "dissolving" works in my opinion.
Another is to strop the burr off, again using full-length-of-blade strop strokes, with rotation, on a grabby strop, like felt. Unless the burr is barely holding on and the sharpener really knows his onions, this hardly every works. My suggestion is "don't bother," at least until you can consistently and effectively detect very slight burrs and consistently and effectively deburr using some other method.
The easiest and most consistently effective way to deburr is by drawing the (well chased) edge through one or a combination of several materials such as champagne cork, wine cork, a felt deburring block, a piece of soft-wood endgrain, or shirt-board. At the moment I draw the knife through a CKtG felt block for intermediate deburring, and felt plus a very soft draw though wine cork for final deburring. If you only want to use one, either works as well as the other.
Deburring should (almost) always be the final act of sharpening.
The only exception is when stropping or "sharpening" a final, ultra-fine, "bright mirror" polish; i.e., 10K and finer with stones, 1u and finer with a strop charge. Then, you want to use to use very few, very light strokes to create the polish, and avoid drawing any burr at all because effective deburring always creates some scratch. That said, 5K + uncharged leather doesn't fall into this category.
Stropping pulls burrs all too easily. If you want to strop as your last act, be very gentle and use very few strokes. As it stands, your final leather strop is more than likely counterproductive. If you really want to use that leather strop go 5K, leather, and deburr.
BDL
